Leak in nudura ICF basement wall causing mold
Last Post 29 Sep 2007 04:45 PM by Chris Johnson. 3 Replies.
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TamaraUser is Offline
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29 Sep 2007 01:32 AM
Please help.  I have a leak in my basement wall and now have black mold in a corner closet.  When confronted the person who put in my basement wall, he admitted that the concrete truck hit the wall.  Now he denies it, however, I took many pictures showing the crack in the brickledge, and the tire tracks of the concrete truck.  He said he was going to pour garage floor with a pump truck, but never got one.  Now, he is blaming my brickers, because my brick is 2 feet below grade rather than 6 inches.  However, when he put the brickledge on, he put it 2 feet too low.  We reexcavated the entire outside area where the leak was, put in the rubber waterproofing, however, the corner of the waterproofing was ripped.  He still used it.  We backfilled completely with pea-gravel, and are still getting water leaks. 

Question 1.) how do you tear off drywall from a ICF wall without tearing off the foam?
Question 2.) how do I waterproof the outside
Question 3.) Would a nightvision camera (Infa-Red) help in finding the crack in the wall if there is one?
Question 4.) If foam needs to be tore off, how would it be done and would it damage the structure?
Question 5.) How do I hold this man accountable without getting a lawyer and spending a lot of money?

Any answers would be greatly appreciated
Have a blessed day
Tamara
James EggertUser is Offline
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29 Sep 2007 08:40 AM
#5- You don't, at this point a lawyer helps establish documentation, and in many cases helps get the parties to resolve the problem. Spending some money establishes the fact you're adament about getting a proper performing product.

As to the brick ledge, there could be some associated water intrusion caused by the mason, albeit indirectly. The reason you need some outside help, is I don't know whether the mason used brick or block to brink the brickwork somewhat closer to grade(I do assume solid cmu) AND MORE IMPORTANTLY I don't know what they did to allow for water intrusion behind the wall to be able to get to the outside! This could be a combination issue, but if the mason just slapped up block and brick, the issue of the crack caused by the purported truck damage could be a moot point.

You see, concrete cracks anyway somewhere, and the presence of a crack, which is PROBABLY pretty high on the wall, leaks, it will be because the water is allowed to stay too close to the wall for too long of a time! AND brick leaks(absorbs) water also, simply due to it's makeup.

I guess what I'm saying is I would not be pointing the finger at one problem but suggest you review all the facts with outside help. Sorry, but in a forum like this, we don't have all the facts, and can only suggest paths to pursue!
Take Care<br>Jim<br><br>Design/Build/Consulting<br>"Not So Big" Design Proponent
eric monkmanUser is Offline
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29 Sep 2007 09:56 AM

1. Your drywall will come off quite easily, the screws attaching the drywall will probably remain and you will have to use a cordless screw driver to remove them.
Use the claws of a ripping hammer to pull it off.

2. This is the biggie.
You have peel and stick membrane attached to the blocks. When water infiltrates behind the membrane it often has nowhere to go but to the interior of the wall.
Remember..... water follows the path of least resistance.
Removing the membrane and replacing it with an "Air Gap" system such as System Platon or Cosella Dorkin and providing a positive water path directly to your perimeter foundation drain will be necessary.
This will not be easy or cheap. Hire an "outside" contractor with experience and a performance guarantee.
Upon completion of your new membrane "test" the wall area with a large quantity of water from your hose.
If the repair re-directs water as intended, backfill to grade with your peastone or sand backfill.

3. Likely not.

4.Do not remove your foam, period. There is no need to even if  there is a large void in the concrete core.
You can "probe" the wall with a slim pick or nail to look for voids near the bottom of the wall.

5. Write your contractor a letter and register it. There may be a valid reason why your job is not a success. e.g. plans and drawings inappropriate. etc.
Small Claims court is a user friendly place to establish responsibility.
Often the cases are never heard but settled thru arbitration. DIY.

6. The error in brickledge elevation may be a contributing factor to the water infiltration.
    Again ,water test the area with a garden hose and see what happens.
    Post some pictures, if you can figure out this site. LOL.

Chris JohnsonUser is Offline
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29 Sep 2007 04:45 PM
What's the soil type and what does the grade look like? Even though it is not a proper solution (With brick below grade by the sounds of it) it may be enough to make sure good grade away from the foundation gives you temporary relief of the situation while you sort thru all this. I caution you that foundation repairs can be sometimes easy and sometimes extremely expensive.

We don't have enough info from you or pictures to tell. Consider a local that specializes in the foundation leaks as well as the block distributor for his input.

Chris Johnson - Pro ICF<br>North of 49
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