Question for you guys, I did my basement in Logix 8'' ICF great product not 1 blow out. The thing is I am now going to backfill and I am not sure how final grade is going to work out. I used the peel and stick stuff Logix supplied and the Platon Dimmple sheeting. The thing is in some areas 1 top block will be exposed so I understand that I have to parge that 1 block. But the side of the house is sloping from front to back. Can I parge over that peel and stick or will it not bond? Also what do you guys recommend for parging (screwing wirelath and 2 parge coats or the EIFS stuff is ok, the skim coat wire the fabric) I am putting the dimmple sheating only where I am sure grade will be. So no issue there. I am just not sure to peel and stick higher than where I think final grade will be. Thanks guys!

With water proofing it is usually recommended that it stops 6" below grade and the top edge sealed. Parging likely won't cover the water proofing edge, I would not apply it to any waterproofing. Wire lathe and cementous (traditional) stucco has its drawbacks especially at grade, wicking and splash. Most parge coats have a fiberglass or plastic mesh. I have used Wall-Bond NCB without mesh on clean ICFs with less than one vertical foot, without mesh.

I also rec Wall-bond NCB. Like any finish, each has its best place. I have an above grade ICF test wall about 7'h with Wall Bond on it, and its been fine for 4+ years now.

Jim, Did you use mesh?

Yes I did on one side, I just never got to the other to try it without mesh. The wall is at the back of where I park my trailers, just never got back to it.

I did a walkout foundation for a client, and also used fiberglass mesh, its inexpensive, and not very difficult to use.

However, I would skip the mesh as an experiment, if the area was 6' or less from grade, however, I believe the mesh helps bridge the areas so the coating works as a large sheet versus the possibility of smaller sections. If you think about it, there is no practical way to screw the large head washers to the straps to hold the mesh. I use the self-stick style, after a good rough up of the ICF surface. A quick blow down with an air gun or broom off has worked well for me.