Hello folks, I'm a new member- first post.
  I've been installing ICFs for close to ten years in northeast Florida. My first experience was with ARXX (called Blue Max at the time) and have worked with several types of forms over the years. My current job is with Nudura.  
  Most of my  installations are ocean front and waterproofing around doors and windows is always an issue.
  The builder for this job - Nudura, oceanfront- is talking about an asphalt based spray on coating for waterproofing behind the Hardi lap siding. Niether of us have any experience in this area.
  The ROs are 2x12 pt and standard practice here is wrapping the outside of the RO with a 6" tape similar to Peel+Seal.
  Any experience/ reccomendations in this area will be appreciated.
  Thank you, Bob.

"asphalt based" to me means petroleum....and petroleum and foam don't play well together. Pet products basically melts the foam away!!

Now I understand the wrap at the bucks, but were you thinking of completely waterproofing the building behind the siding?? You can detail the heads with additional Peel-n-stick, but the whole building I've never heard of being done??

Jim- thanks for the reply and yes he is considering coating the whole building. I don't have a product name yet, I guess I was hoping to hear That it has been done before with good results.
I talk to a lot of people who have heard negative feedback, moisture is a common one, re. ICFs. Personally I feel that the design of some blocks, poor installation or both are the problem.
This is the builders first ICF project and I'm sure that he has heard the negative issues and is trying to play it safe.

Well, understand that there is solvent-based asphalt, and then there is 'emulsified' asphalt. (water-based) Many formulations of the latter work well on foam. And understand that there is a difference between 'damp-proofing' and waterproofing. You want the latter below-grade.

However also understand that:
- Quality liquid, or RubRWall below-grade, is always more expensive than peelNstick. Cheep liquid dries out and cracks. (Henry's);
- In Winter you must get the low-temp flavor of peelNstick. And some brands are terrible, so check warranties;
- Liquid or peelNstick, either is inadequate alone. You must also use dimpled membrane if you want a dry basement;
- Quality peelNstick is better than liquid, as it physically supports the dimpled from pressing into the foam from earth pressure;
- And needless to say, you must install a functional french-drain system.

If water issues, this always means malinstalled.

Welcome fellow Blue Maxer not a lot of us around anymore.

You pose an interesting question. Since the dew point of an ICF home has moved to the exterior of the building envelope the chance of building up moisture behind you siding is greatly increased. If you talk to James Hardie I think you will find out that they are in the process of creating product specific warranties. This is due to the wide variety of ICFs on the market that have different web spacing, different web strengths and so on. With the product I usually use I know that Hardie will warranty it with the plank right on the foam, nailed off at 16 inch centers. No house wrap, no nothing under it. That being said on my weather sides of my buildings I like to add a nonlinear drainwrap behind my Hardie just to protect the siding from possible moisture. It is funny that just yesterday I had this conversation with one of my contractors who decided to install his Hardie without any drainwrap behind.

As far as a quality waterbased modified asphalt waterproofing or damp proofing that is compatible with ICF look up Epro. Since you live in Florida go to the IBS in Orlando Feb 13-16. They will have tons of products on display that I am sure would fit your needs. Although I feel this is an unnecessary expense to coat the whole build above grade. I agree with Jim, I have never heard of it being done or required before.

ICF Contractor

Thanks folks for the replies, I'll post more with job progress ( two more floors to go ). Usually I'm down the road after the walls are up but I will monitor this one, I find the idea of completely coating the exterior with a waterproof membrane fascinating.
To the best of my knowledge ICFs are not approved for below grade contact here in Florida, the most common building technique is laying the block on top of the grade beam, foundation or slab a foot or so above grade and at the same level as the concrete floor (we have very few off grade floors). The most common exterior finish here is stucco which seals the joint at the bottom of the block so now any moisture in the wall has a home at or above floor level. This is not a common issue, I have installed over a hundred homes/units with only three moisture problems, but when it happens it's ugly and maybe this coating is the fix.
Thanks again, Bob.