Is there a consensus on the use of vinyl bucks or is pressure treated wood the preferred and more economical option?

Brian,
If you go back to page three, there is a recent discussion on this topic called "V-Buck?" What I gathered from it is that most people dont get enough advantage to offset the extra cost.
When I was stacking my house, I priced it both ways, and the v-buck was over four times the price of PT 2x12's. since I wasn't putting a dollar value on my own time it was a no brainer to use PT. Apparently some contractors get enough labor savings to justify it. It doesn't cost anything to price it both ways and see what works best for your situation.

Greg

Greg is correct even though I will only use V-Buck for the main reason that is it will not rot.

Previous post have pointed out that they have problems with the installers attaching items to it such as trim and windows, We have not had this problem nor have we added additional bracing for during the pour, and in fact we use less than we do when we used pt.

The previous post prompted me to create a sample for our customers with a short chunk of v-Buck I nailed finish nails by hand into it, put screws into it, I even hammered in a 6d nail and then had some of our customers try to pull them out by hand they could not do it.

The other point is that it does not warp later causing window problems.

There are other options. Amvic has a new buck system that looks interesting (http://www.amvicsystem.com/amvicbucksystem.aspx). 2M Squared has an OSB and foam system (http://www.2msquared.com/ ).  Jam it all makes a steel buck (http://www.jamb-it-all.com/). I use a 6 inch 18 gague steel stud secured with windlock screws and line it with Trex .

Cattail.......don't you do mostly commercial instead of resid.? I could be wrong but I 'think' that's what I've read in the past.

Small town Minnesota so we do both Commercial and residential.

Right now we are finishing up a 6200sq' Res in the golf course community and a 22000sq' commercial

We use a metal removable form. So it looks like this when done. Then you just install window same way as with CMU.
Except use a 1x6 on 4 inch core, or 1x8 on 6 in core. This way is more cost effective for the customer and gives a good tight seal. No worry of rot when the water can not get to it. :)

CFL-ICF,
It appears that the concrete extends all the way through, inside to out. What about a thermal break? Any problems with condensation?  Also, do you have any problems with mounting trim?

If you properly flash your openings, why would the bucks rot out? Why is PT even necessary?

I have had some issues with bucks warping, but typically we install an inset 2 x 6 inside the buck so the windows are at mid-wall. This allows a typical flashing and window installation.

Drywallers and stucco lathers all have 'normal' situations.

Most flashing will heat and cool at a differant pace then the concrete, which makes them a condensor for what ever humidity is in the air, this is not noticed as it is all covered up by finish material and will become apparent several years down the road.

Yes it will keep the snow and rain out but not the humidity, we all know that flashing is required so we will continue to use it as required.

Opus, could you share a few more particulars about you use of a steel stud and Trex.  After reading the many posts on this subject in recent weeks your way sounds very novel ( and simple).  How do you do the window installation?  Thanks !

LSL timber strand wrapped with protecto wrap is another option. I've tried v-buck, 2x12, and treated. I like the timber strand the most. I've found that v-buck works the best with other subs (mostly drywall) with blocks that have the webs which protrude out from the face of the block.

If you are DIY VBUCK is the easiest way to go. I did my own and it took no time at all. The only thing that was hard for me was drilling the holes in the sill, but I called their tech line and they said to run the drill in reverse. It worked perfectly after that.

I also heard VBUCK had dropped their price.

I insert a 6 inch C channel ( unpunched) into the ICF and secure it with winddevil washers and screws. I then put a piece of Trex in the opening with the edge flush with the interior foam. The trex I use is 1 1/8 inches thick and 5 1/2 inches wide. This leaves 3 inches of the buck and 2 1/2 inches of the exterior foam exposed. I cover this with 1/2 inch foam. Then I paint Ames Blue Max from the inside to outside around the edge. The window mounts with steel clips that extend back from the window fram. I screw through these into the concrete with Tapcons. The exterior is stuccoed.Part of the window sits past the Trex and out over the stuccco. In this gap goes backer rod and caulk. V-Buck needs inserts in it to meetwind loads here in Florida. This makes an expensive product cost about twice. Pressure treated wood comes in two grades here. Pre warped or soon to be warped. This is my personal solution . The steel requires very little bracing. I put one vertical and one horizontal 2 x 4 in the window and door frames when I pour. I doubt that it is necessary but I will let someone else prove it.

Opus, have you tried 402's ? There much cheaper than wind-devils and serve the same purpose for your application.

Dave

Opus,
Thank you for the further detail you have provided. I hope to build in Citrus county Florida. This insight into the requirements of construction in Florida is appreciated.
Don Rogers

I looked at the Amvic buck at WOC, it does look interesting, so when I got home (ontario) I priced it out $9/linear foot, I was also told that the speed in which it is installed makes up for the extra cost. At $9 a foot I couldn't make it work no matter how fast I was.!!!!!