Just wondering the best method for attaching bracing to a wood subfloor.  I was told at one point to make sure to screw into the top of the joists for a stronger hold, but my joist supplier recommends not screwing anything into the top of a joist.  I have been told to use adhesive to secure a 2x to the floor and srew into that, but was concerned about taking it off after with the glue. 
Thanks Nathan

I recommend you screw to the subfloor using siding screws - they are the ones with the washer. If you have a chance the best screw I found comes from Trillium Screw in Pickering Ontario...a guy actually invented it for ICF bracing and the applications we use daily. Without a regular source they can be difficult to get since the quantities you need will be minimal compared to the big buyers.

Who's block hve you chosen? One block manufacturer is now carrying these screws and distributing through the dealers. If not use the siding screws.

Not to hijack here, Chris do you need some more of those screws, I can get some from Dan and send them to you???
Paul

Just a plain black, course thread screw will work fine. No need to hit a joist. If you need more force than that you are not leaning the walls in right.

ICFconstruction, what do you mean 'not leaning the walls in right'?

Always lean your walls in about 1/4" to pour. Then push them out to straighten. Much safer this way.

Thanks for the offer Paul...Maybe next time you are down I might get you to bring me another 20 boxes but I do reuse them and should be good for the rest of the year

When screwing bracing to a sub-floor you should be able to have the wall perfectly straight and once you turn a corner with the pour have your guys bring that wall back to straight. i would recommend this method for a rookie, that way if they have a blow out, concrete trucks delayed, pour in hot, humid weather which makes the concrete set quicker, or are just timid about the pour and are going slow, if the walls are always straight there will never be a problem of being unable to straighten a wall due to stiff crete. I have seen walls that are bowed in because the contractor/owner said "well we had a blowout, it was hot, and by the time we got back to it it wouldn't budge" now thats a tough break!! As long as you have a good amount of bracing on the wall (I brace every 6-7 webs) this should not be a problem. With the proper equipment that we are given to use, there should be no reason not to have straight walls.
Paul Stevens