I'm enjoying reading the many entries and replies on the forum.  I will be adding an addition this Spring 09.  A simple bath/bedroom, four sided with a bridge hallway(spanning from old to new)  from the existing  circa 1852 farm house.  I decided to add a complete four sided addition/ foundation as the original house has a stone foundation, that I did extensive repair to when we bought the place three years ago.

The local lumberyard uses Logix brand ICF and the more I read the more I am impressed.  I have run into some questions. 

I need to add a Bilco exterior door to access the short basement/large crawl space 6' 6" and install it right on a corner.  I read that I need at least one coarse with lintel, over the doorway .  I am concerned about the placement of the doorway buck , with the re-enforced lintel on the bearing wall so close to the corner.  Should I be?


I also am now considering using the ICF method for the first floor walls.  Getting a pumper truck is $$ expensive and two pours means double eliminating that fancy window the wifey wants.  SO, is it worth the extra cost?

OTL

Would have to see your prints to be sure on your door problem. Depending on the grade, you may pour the lower level from the truck. I am a Logix distributor if you have more questions.

I agree with TLC on the plans. Since this is a small project I would use a line pump instead of a pump truck. You will save quite a bit on cost. Where are you located?

I might be able to figure out how to draw the issue on a cad program and cut and paste here, I'll look for one.

Maybe a better way of asking is how close to a corner can I place a door?  I have a field manual, read the logix website extensively, but found only one page and no spec's about this.



How close can I move that bulkhead well to the corner...SHOULD I have some return for lateral strength? I would like to have one leg of the well in line with the outside wall, and the actual doorway is treated as a "T", with the 'U' shaped well on the outside of the corner.

The pour from a truck might work if I could move the truck in close enough from many directions which I can't.   I will check with the very few suppliers in the area, to see what they can do.  I will also check on a "line Pump" although I would guess I would need to travel to get it.  We are located 14 miles from the bridge to Canada in Northern New York.  Peace and quiet abound, services and supplies do not.

I have more questions, I sided the main house with James Hardie board over strapping for a moisture vent. How would you attach it to ICF's, since my best recollection of their manual states no screws?

I also chatted with a contractor, who insists that using a vibrator is very problematic, he instead hires a bunch of folks with wooden plates and hammers.  Thoughts?

Water pressure from the soil will be a concern, what is the best method to waterproof this ICF  foundation?

Best Regards,
OTL

I found a picture on this forum that illustrates the "bump out" that I am asking about:  It is shown as 8'11", my needs would be closer to 4' x 4' as spec'ed by the bilco door and the ICF reccomended build table.

In most cases you can place the door buck as close as you want to a corner. Just keep in mind that you may want to hold it off of the inside of the corner 3-4" for what ever kind of interior trim you will be applying around the jamb.

Basically the catch 22 to placing a door or window close to a corner is to pay attention to your lintels. If your lintel calls for horizontal bars extending 24" beyond each side of the opening and say you only have 16" from the side of opening to the edge of the concrete in the corner then what you need to do is take your horizontal steel and bend a 180 degree loop on the end of the bar to net your required 24" horizontal length of steel.

As for the line pump, most outfits offering a line pump service will include a operator to pump it for you.

For us, hardie siding installation is as simple as using 1 3/4" ring shank nails  right into the Logix ties. Screws are optional and hold better, but take longer to install.



"[i]I also chatted with a contractor, who insists that using a vibrator is very problematic, he instead hires a bunch of folks with wooden plates and hammers.  [/i][b][i]Thoughts?[/i]"

[/b]Not using a vibrator is definitely asking for trouble. The only way to properly consolidate concrete in ICF forms is to use internal vibration. Logix is our choice of ICF and can definitly hadle the extra strain of a vibrator.

The Portland Cement Association has a really really good read on a consolidation test they did on different types of wall systems with different concrete slumps and placement methods (including the infamous block and hammer technique), this should be a must read for everyone getting into ICFs:

http://www.cement.org/bookstore/download.asp?mediatypeid=1&id=3871&itemid=RD134 (free download)


[i]"Water pressure from the soil will be a concern,[b] what is the best method to waterproof this ICF  foundation?[/b][/i]"


We don't do many basements here in Central Oregon. In most cases we eigther place a trowel on coating to the exposed foam between the finish grade and siding or we use a custom bent piece of metal trim.  For below grade applications we use a peel and stick waterproofing membrane (been so long since ive used it that I can't remember the name). Maybe someone on here can give a reccomendation. But generally what a lot of people do is take the membrane and place it on the icf down across the top of the footing and down the side.

Thanks for the input,  I couldn't fathom screwing the hardie board in...the time it would take.  I had heard from the local lumber yard that J Hardie had a issue with trim boards and screws, turning to dust, because of this they were changing their trim boards to flashing around the windows and doors..Anyone?

I am still investigating the bulkhead door area and looking at a pre cast unit...good idea or potential leak problems?

 

OTL 

For your lintel qestion, you would have to communicate with the block rep., simply double the steel or upgrade your bars for lintel if the'24 in' isn't met. pcaughlin put you on the wright track for waterproofing. Almost all builds we do are or have a basement and peel and stick membrane (soprema,bluescin,etc.)is the way to go. Haven't got a callback for leaks ,ever . Make sure all point of entries are sealed properly and 2feet past the new onto the existing will do the trick.
Cheers!

I have a call in through the local distributor, and I thank you all for your input.  The precast stair/bulkead unit is the only outstanding issue.  I'll research those brands of membranes and check with the local lumber yards.

 

The local code enforcement officer has suggested NOT putting a drain within the bulkhead or the basement floor as this could allow water to permeate the area.  The terrain will make it though to find daylight for the footing drain without dumping water into the "bathtub" (clay soil).  This leaves the water on the property putting more pressure on the foundations.  I am considering using a sump well and pushing the water into a recovery tank during the warm months for watering the 4000 sq ft garden.  ANY other ideas?