Guys,

Need some opinions with the creation of beam pockets.  I am looking at 10w x 30 steel for our project.  Looking at surevoid products now.  I am thinking of fastening the surevoid on the inner side of the form, through the foam, and then to plywood backer on the inner wall to provide the fastening surface.  Post pour simply scrape out the foam that covered the blockout.  Tilt and slide the girder into the pocket.

Obviously my plan is to stop the pour above the beam pocket (to embed the anchor bolts for the floor system)

Comments?

Leonard

If your really careful, set the I beam prior to pour and support it with 2x material, use shim shingles below in case of block settlement, this will allow you to adjust the beam height if needed.

Now the beam is cast in place. Another good idea is to drill a 7/8" hole in the ends of the beam where it is in the concrete area of the wall, after setting the beam in place put a 3' piece is threaded rod through the hole and this will help anchor it in place during the concrete placement.

Vibrate really good to ensure the concrete is well seated under the beam.

Chris,

Why the threaded rod?  Do the threads have more holding power than regular rebar?

Chris,

So cast in place girders are used? How do you cover the holes in the foam prior to the pour, use plywood cut in such a manner that any opening around the girder is covered? For a 12" wall, how large a bearing surface would you allow? 4-6".

Casting in place is a great idea since we are planning on erecting the first floor prior to the pour with a shoring wall from the footers.

Leonard

You can use rebar provided it gets welded to the I beam, but welding near foam isn't that great of an idea so use threaded rod and tighten some nuts on either side of the web you drilled through.

You can cut the foam slightly larger than the outline of the beams 'I' shape, feed it in and low expansion foam the opening when done...plywood is also an option.

Bearing surface or embedment should be a minimum of 6" into the concrete.

Are you casting your floor joist into place as well??

Chris,

Nope...just the usual doubled 2x10's, anchor bolted 5/8", 16" OC, staggered top and bottom. Open web floor trusses, top chord mounted on icf ledger. Will use a shoring wall from the footer to support the ICF side.

Leonard

Are your open web floor joists top supported or do the have a solid or I joist end?

If solid or I joist type end you could embed them (protected) directly through the foam and pour them in place as well, this will save the expense of the double 2x10's, a lot of joist hangers and time!!

Chris,

The floor trusses are top chord mounted. We are eliminating joist hangers completely doing it this way. The 2x10's will fit in between the chords. The inner portion of the truss will be bottom chord mounted on load bearing walls.

Leonard

BTW, I like your cast in place idea of girders...I'll run it by the engineer.

If you are in a cold climate, don't embed any wood in concrete, however protected. It will rot.
I have been a renovator for a long time and have never seen that work.
rgb

Chris,
when you cast in place you dont let the concrete get behind the steel do you? just curious on movement of steel with temps?
Denny in Va
course it goes from hot to cold here with extreams on both ends

Cast in place means concrete is encasing it, securing it.

Why would expansion and contraction be a problem on an interior steel beam?