Hello everyone,

We hope to start our dream home soon using Polysteel ICFs (as well as Lite-Deck roof) through a reputable distributor/builder nearby. Does anyone have any Polysteel specific horror stories to share that we should be aware of? Thanks.

Edit: As per a couple inquiries, we're located in north central Indiana and have found someone whom we trust has the necessary experience with the Polysteel system. We do have some concerns about the Lite-Deck roof, as the back half of the house, which has clerestory windows along the post-and-beam ridge, is a 5/12 pitch and will be quite an engineering job to pour. There isn't a lot of experience around with this part of the project.

Not a fan of steel webs. they will transmit heat and cold.

So do the plastic ties.   One thing about polysteel is that the steel is covered by foam.  Most plastic ties I see are exposed.  I'm certainly a noob however the builders of this home,

www.zeroenergyideahouse.com


complained to me about the amount of heat loss from the exposed plastic.  Since this is a test project they are carefully monitoring.  Polysteel may be worse, I don't know, I'm just throwing it out there...

In any event the one thing I picked up here so far is the blocks don't matter so much as the skill and experience of the builder.

I don't think that Poly Steel is any better than worse than the leading ICF Brands. The key to a good ICF structure is with the installer, his experience, and the quality of his bracing and wall alignment system. While ICF construction is not rocket science, there is a learning curve that must be obtained......hopefully not at your expense. The spacing spacing of the webs is important as they add to the strength of the form and allow the alignment system to be spaced a little farther apart. I think that the better blocks have webs on 6" centers. Exposed polycarbonate ties can create thermal stripes (damp lines) on the exterior surface of the wall under certian conditions, fog, high humidity, eccetera. The best blocks have the webs embeded within the foam, ususlly a 1/4" or more.

Certain fire departments only accept steel webs in Commercial work as well

Polysteel should serve you well.  Up here in the North you can see frost forming on the vinyl siding at every tie location. Even with forms that have even 1/2" of foam cover. I've not noticed the frost on forms with 3/4" of foam cover.

As far as the clearstory concrete roof, it is easily accomplished. Even all ICF. Depending on your design you could use ICF columins supporting ICF beams that support the ICF roof.

We've done this on a 5.5" pitch roof.

" Most plastic ties I see are exposed."

From what I've seen Logix, Nudura, Rewardwall, Eco-block, Greenblock, Foxx-block, Buildblock, Amvic, all have their webs embedded. Arxx even now has embedded their webs (I think on 1 side?) These are most of the major products out there, sorry if I forgot someone, but you get the point.


Steel conducts thermal transfer at a higher rate than plactics. Anyone disagree?

zeroenergyideahouse.com ??

What testing have they done on the thermal transfer through webs? Looks to me like they are promoting sips and not ICF. maybe a bias? I'd like to see the test results.


Does 6" or 8" web spacing really make a difference? Anyone who has built with any of the aforementioned ICFs that have 8" OC webs will tell you that having 6" OC webs is more of a "feature" than a benefit. All of the above forms regardless of whether they are 6" or 8" will hold the concrete the same as long as they are installed properly. And no, having 6" OC webs does not allow you to be more liberal with your installation techniques because they are "stronger" or more forgiving.


As far as polysteel goes....If you have a solid installer and he uses polysteel, go with that if it is a deal breaker. The cost of the thermal loss through the webs is a "relatively" small price to pay for a quality installation. Much better than hiring someone who screws you project up, but uses a "better" ICF.

Again, for the "newbies" to this site, specifically to this forum, all ICF's are not "blocks" eg: www.tfsystem.com There have been many posts in previous threads regarding the pros and cons of the various "block" ICF systems, as well as many comments in connection with "the Vertical System", so I'll only address the issue of the "webs", and mention a couple of other unique features. The TF web is continuous from the bottom, to the top, of the wall. There is a choice of recycled plastic, or steel, "webs" that are called out as "I-Beams" in the TF installation manual (clearly illustrated on the website) These "I-Beams" are imbedded a nominal 1/2" within the vertical EPS panels, std 2 1/2" thick by 12" wide, up to 12' high. The panels can be ordered at exact plate heights, and up to 4 1/2" thick. (Allows up to R-36 if one elects to go with 4 1/2" panels on both sides) In regard to maximum wall height, the TF installation manual states" TF System components can be stacked with virtually no limit as long as it can be sufficiently braced and is properly reinforced". ( I know,"duh") The steel "I-Beams" are also available for walls up to a 24" thick. TF is a "knockdown" system, and ships flat for lower cost, and more efficient, shipping. While it is an extremely simple system to install, I'll echo the comments of all of the pros who contribute regularly to this forum "Hire a professional "concrete guy" to work with you unless you have the utmost confidence in your "dyi" abilities, and even then it will likely be well worth it to have that "PCG" there with you to check your work before, and during, the pour. Having said that, I'm aware that many say " buy the form that your contractor is familiar with". Well, obviously, as a distributor for TF, I have a "little different" approach to this issue. (By the way, SoCal Scott, I'm sure that all of us TF distributors, contractors, as well as the manufacturer, would be elated with the "25/75" (vertcal vs block) ratio that you mentioned in a previous post)

To the originator of this thread- Good luck with your project, whichever ICF system that you choose for your walls. If a concrete roof doesn't work some reason, there is another energy efficient, sustainable, aka "green" product that you might consider for this application, which you can learn more about on the forum that's listed just below the ICF forum on this website.

Thanks for the information. I can't honestly say we gave verticals any consideration, which is to say we basically went with what was local. To be honest, the concept of using an ICF was sort of a johnny-come-lately. Our first choice would have been a completely earth-sheltered home, having first investigated Davis Caves and then the pair of shotcreted dome outfits in Colorado with disastrous and expensive results.

But we really wanted to stay with at least an earth-bermed concept, and having looked at ICFs in the past we came back to them. That led us to our state's concrete homebuilders association, which led us to a nearby ICF builder who just happens to use Polysteel, which to our liking touted themselves as a company that encourages the prospective homeowner -- us -- to do as much of the work as possible. And we liked the architect that is also nearby who has worked with this particular Polysteel distributor and he was able to take our design ideas and turn them into a reality -- at least on paper.

That's what we like to hear....keep us updated on how your home is progressing!

Poly steel is a good system from what I can see. I have never used it but it looks solid. The one question I have is if the cross ties are galvanized steel what about the contact with concrete AKA galvanization. It is the same thing as when people switched to galvanized anchor bolts (when treated lumber got rid of the arsenic) and found that the anchor bolts rust out. There is a chemical reaction between the galvanizing and concrete. I have sent in for the tech specs on poly steel because I am curious.

I have used tens of thousands of square feet of Polysteel and they are a premium ICF, a little harder for the installer to cut, but for the homeowner they are fine, as is any ICF with at least 2.5" of EPS on each side and full height attachments/ties.

I am building my house out of Polysteel (3000 sqft). We are done with the Polysteel part of the construction. I am very happy that I used polysteel with the steel instead of the plastic. Another house in our area was built out of ICFs with the plastic. A two weeks after the family moved in, the house burned down (defective wiring in the crawl space). The house was completely destroyed except for the concrete walls. But there were holes in the walls where the plastic had burned through to the other side. My Polysteel walls have a four hour firewall rating. Oh, my installer says that Panel-Deck is better than Lite-Deck. Have fun building!

We're starting to get cost estimates to trickle in and we're not sure if a concrete roof is in the cards/budget for us -- currently looking at more conventional and cost-effective alternatives.

CeeElGeeDIY,

I honestly wouldn't do a concrete roof, maybe consider until I saw the price. Use spray foam insulation in the roof area, or maybe a SIP. A concrete roof would be great, but the upcharge makes it something I don't even really promote. I'm agree with those before as well, if your installer/builder likes polysteel, then I would build with polysteel and not think twice about it.

Best of luck to you.

About polysteel
I have had more than one bad dealing with them as the supplier.
What is important for you is that you research the benefits of the block compared to others, include your cost factor and check your builder's references, repeat- check your builders references to make sure you are dealing with a an installer who will serve you right. If you are comfortable with polysteel (wait a minute. Isn't polysteel ARXX now?)

Curious. What bad dealings have you had? And how were they resolved?

I saw a Durisol structure built in the 70s that was in a fire. The walls were left standing including the Durisol material. It was charred, but after scrapping it off the walls were ok to be refinished (screwed and glued drywall). There were no holes or loss of insulation.