Slab or crawl space?
Last Post 02 Mar 2009 12:46 AM by wildblue. 6 Replies.
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wildblueUser is Offline
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27 Feb 2009 11:25 AM

I am designing my ICF home in the Seattle area.  I originally was putting in a full basement but after input from the boss of bosses, I'm cutting it down to partial.

 

My question is about the rest of the house that will have no basement under it.  Should I have a crawl space or pour the floor in contact with a suitable base on the ground? 

 

I think I could build thermal storage for heat under the direct contact floor and warm it with passive solar. 

 

If I use a crawl space I still have to put in some kind of sub floor on which to pour my concrete floor.

 

What do you pros suggest or is it really no matter if either is done correctly?



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27 Feb 2009 12:21 PM
Your site will play a big role in answering your question. Is the site sloped enough for a walkout basement, or is it basically level with a fully inground basement? If the site basically level, then a slab would be OK. However, if there is a slope involved, then the decision becomes more complicated. If you intend to pour a concrete floor, then I would not recommend the use of a crawlspace. Set your perimeter stem walls and backfill, then pour your slab.
Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected]
wildblueUser is Offline
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27 Feb 2009 01:56 PM
Posted By wes on 02/27/2009 12:21 PM
Your site will play a big role in answering your question. Is the site sloped enough for a walkout basement, or is it basically level with a fully inground basement? If the site basically level, then a slab would be OK. However, if there is a slope involved, then the decision becomes more complicated. If you intend to pour a concrete floor, then I would not recommend the use of a crawlspace. Set your perimeter stem walls and backfill, then pour your slab.


Thank you.  Duh! I knew I should have described the site. 

The site is five acres and pancake flat so my engineer can pick a good building site.  The partial basement will be fully inground.  The soil is sandy loam down to 3' and then hits 60' of solid hard pan.  The well report told me what's down there.

I'm thinking I will do the slab in the non-basement area.  Possibly I will excavate down to the hard pan build the foundation walls to slightly above the natural grade for good drainage and then backfill the slab area with layers of compacted crushed and rock dust to make a solar thermal storage.   (After I see how it worked for http://www.wdnichols.com/ from whom I got the idea.)

The Seattle area is not great for solar but a passive system that can store heat makes sense to me.  It's magnificantly sunny today after pouring rain yeaterday.

AltonUser is Offline
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27 Feb 2009 02:16 PM
If your five acres are pancake flat, then you will need a sump and pump system for the basement.  If you have access to extra dirt, then you might consider not digging the basement quite as deep.  Use the extra dirt to make a raised building pad so there will be great drainage away from the basement.  With five acres, you might also want a pond.  The removed dirt could be used to backfill the basement and the pond could be used for a geothermal system.
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buddenUser is Offline
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27 Feb 2009 06:15 PM
"It's magnificantly sunny today after pouring rain yeaterday."

Doggoneit ... you're NEVER supposed to admit such things.
walltechUser is Offline
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27 Feb 2009 06:32 PM
As far as I'm concerned slab "on" any day over a crawl. If you search this site you will find many subject on this one. If I had the choice between Basement and one story, vrse slab and 2 story, I would never put a basement in.

Dave
wildblueUser is Offline
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02 Mar 2009 12:46 AM
I'm not worried about the basement leaking.  All it takes to prevent it is good design, construction and the proper materials and oh yes, buckets of money.  LOL!

I intend to use Krystol Internal Membrane (KIM) admixture in the concrete and their Waterstop system grout at the footing/wall joints plus the usual external membrane.

That plus proper grading and drainage will do the job.  It will add about $15K to the cost but it will be well worth it in the long run.

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