You know how it goes we were as green as green can be and we had all our volunteer help there ready to go.  If I were a seasoned contractor I probably would have belted him with a 2X and told him to get lost.  The second guy we used we found by asking several contrators from the area.  One guy told us how this operator had snaked his boom through a walk in door way of this place they were pouring a floor without ever coming close to the buck.  He was a dream to work with.   There was no pressure and we poured almost the same amount of concrete in about a half hour less time.  We will be using him when I build my house. 

Mark,

So are you attaching doors and windows like Introspec recomends? with a lil peice of plywood screwed to the window? then what do you screw that to? the webs on the block out blocking?

Denny

PS  nice clean job, may try this some time

I really like the idea but like ICFDude I am still contemplating the window/door attaching procedure/technique. Care to enlighten me? ;)

This has also been covered in other threads.  If you are interested I will correspond via  e-mail or phone.. 

No wood:

check ICC, 144 lbs per screw each tie, then use enerbond (not enerfoam) rated at 40 PSI, to fill, which is also structurally rated, resulting in a window, you cant take out from the outside, you have to do so only from the inside, although you still remove it by pushing it out to the exterior, you cannot take it out from the interior.

BTW had a client that did not believe me on this, made him a bet that he could not remove the window in one piece without cutting the enerbond.  Window was destroyed, frame never came out, however cut it out in 2 minutes from the inside.  Works great.

Cool! Ya I know of some finish carpenters that only use the enerbond adhesive foam to set their interior doors with. Never heard of using it in terms of a 'structural' fastening device for windows. Of course we foam around the frame to 'seal' up the undesirable air gaps but Ive never considered it a alternative to fasteners through the flanges of the windows. Im assuming that your able to line your windows and doors up in which at least a few fasteners can be directly attached to the furring strip in the ICF?

Is the enerbond product fire rated for use in a commercial building?