I've not heard of an ICF window.  What is being offered for the extra money? 

 

We probably need a little more information to answer your question.  How many windows is that $1,500 being spread across is one that comes to mind? 

 

 

 

Thanks,

Bruce

 

Yeah ive never heard of an ICF window... are talking about an ICF buck? If so its a waste of menee!!! Get some V-buck or plastic lumber.

bbicf, I was wondering the same thing as the two guys above. Over the past couple of years there has been quite a bit of discussion here about what specific window styles and brands are best, and what's the best way to install them.

I suggest you do a search throughout the forums here. What you'll find are a lot of good ideas about different approaches to windows. There is no "one size fits all" answer to your question. My recommendation, based on building one house, is research what windows are available to you at a price you are willing and able to pay, and will give you the performance you can live with, and design your wall openings to fit, to fit both the window and your tastes. Window prices are all over the map. IMO, medium priced windows are much better than low priced windows, high priced windows are better than medium priced windows, but the payback may not be there for you to go from medium priced windows to high priced. My price searching leads me to say, on average, low priced are around $400 per window, medium priced are around $700 - $800 per, and high priced are $1200 to $1500, plus the cost of finishing them out.

Keep in mind that cheap windows installed properly will perform as good, or better, than expensive windows installed improperly. Don't short change the installation process.

Sorry what I meant was that the window frame was the full width of the icf block as opposed to a window that would fit a 2 by 6 framed wall.  SO if I went with an icf window frame my jamb would come out and be flush with my interior side of the foam and with the other one the jamb would sit about half way on the inside of the wall so would have to either make a sill myself or run the drywall around to meet it.  There are about 15 windows total spread over 1500 dollars difference
reading your responses brings me to another questions, is there much diff pperformance wise if installed and sealed properly between a double pane low e and a triple pane low e.

What brand of window are you talking about that would be the thickness of your wall? I didn't know there was such a window.

I could be wrong but I think most windows come with a basic frame to which are added extension jambs to fit the wall thickness desired. I don't know about the others, but Andersen, in their 400 series casement which I used, does not have a factory jamb to fit an 11" thick wall. What I did was order the window with no extension jamb at all and built my own jambs to fit. I mounted mine to the outside of the wall. Some guys like to mount them part way inside and then finish both inside and outside to fit. If you're going to wrap drywall to meet the window frame save a few bucks and buy the jamb for a 2 x 4 stud wall.

The best way to get an idea of performance is go here: http://www.nfrc.org/windowshop/index.aspx. Follow the link for search for energy performance data. The NFRC is the testing/certifying agency for windows. They list performance data for literally thousands of windows. That's why there is no pat answer for you, because there are hundreds of window manufacturers, each with dozens of styles. I won't say for certain, but I'm sure there are double pane windows with better performance than some triple pane. You also need to balance E values and SHGC values with north and east sides of the house vs south and west sides, taking into account shading differences from summer to winter, and your climate.

When it comes to windows, it's a jungle out there! :-) And there are plenty of lions out there just waiting to pounce on unsuspecting window shoppers. They will serve up plenty of hoopla before they devour your wallet. I trust you've been spending a fair amount of time looking for the windows you want. I say this because executing an informed window buying decision is not a two day, or two week, job. Two months will pretty much get you there. I think I spent about four months (not full time of course)  researching windows and still didn't necessarily get it 100% correct!

I would absolutely not recommend spending any extra money on longer jambs. I personally do not for either doors or windows, and in the case of doors you can actually save money by buying a 4 9/16" jamb instead of thicker ones that frame construction requires for exterior entrances. The BEST way, if you have the money, is to install standard jamb windows on the ICF home and then trim out the interior sill of the window in wood trim. Assuming you have a total of 11" thick ICF walls this is fairly expensive, but you save on drywall and bull nose as well as not paying additional for "ICF windows". And it is a fantastic appearance that really shows the thickness and look of security ICF's provide and a beautiful wood finish. The next best way which is cheaper is to trim out the bottom sill with wood and the rest of the interior window with drywall. This is a sharp look (I have done this on my home) and is fairly reasonable cost wise. This also shows the thickness of the ICF wall and looks great on large windows, and also provides a nice wide sill where things such as plants or decorations can be placed.

My customers go about 50/50 for factory extension jams on windows. I have been told adding the wood extension jam is easy. I also think a three sided drywall jam looks good. I would not do drywall on the bottom.

Doors are better off bought with a maintenance free, factory, extension jam as they see so much weather.

Site made extension jambs are easy to apply to the windows with a pocket hole jig. I prefer to attach the extensions to the window unit and not the framing.
If I were the OP I would order with a 4 9/16" jamb, get matching lumber and attach to the 4 9/16" jamb with a slight reveal. Should take 1 guy less than a day to rip, cut, pocket hole, assemble and attach to 15 windows unless they are 15 different sizes. If you order a 6 9/16 jamb that is usually an extension jamb on a 4 9/16 jamb so you'll already have a seam and reveal on the unit and adding another would look odd.

If its really thick(wall) this method would be a pain to shim correctly with the jamb extension on so maybe you wouldnt want to preattach, never done that deep of an extension (assuming 11" wall)

I & my helper decided that preattached extensions would create problems installing the windows in my 11" walls, so we did them later. We used MDF and rabbeted the edge to fit into the window frame groove. Because there was no practical way to cleanly secure them to the window frame (pocket screws aren't reasonably accessible through a 3/4" space 7"+ deep) we had no choice but to shim and nail them to the bucks. This thread has a couple of pictures of my jambs. http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/view/topic/forumid/4/postid/52284/Default.aspx

One day seems extremely optimistic for time to build them. I have 14 windows, 6 sizes, and as I remember it took 3 or 4 days for my helper and a carpenter to build them all. Proper fitting was painstaking. The time included chamfering all the edges and rabbeting the front edge of the top piece to provide a 1/2" thick projection.

Dmaceld,
Why the chamfer? For casing install?
I should know better than to post time to complete.
Assuming preattaching extension jams and no odd shapes 15 in a day with accuracy isnt a problem, installing after they are in gets a little more tedious, my average is 1 hour per window with the biscuit method but again there are alot of variables, I would see a little reduced time with 15 however that means nothing as everyone is different. Your increased time has to do with a chamfer and rabbet for one, I don't do either, and then there could be a myriad of additional factors, pretend I said nothing of time to complete.

OP, I would suggest no matter what you do consider:

-The 2 methods you are considering give you 2 very different looks, I would let that weigh in on a decision versus just cost.
-Do not use MDF especially if your going to pockethole or biscuit join.
-If you are going to install extensions after the window is in use a bisquit joiner to get you precise alignment and reveals before nailing to the buck or rough frame.
-I like to pockethole if possible because of the tight connection, sometimes you can achieve this by drilling an access hole in the buck or rough frame to reach where the extension and jamb meet; it can be frustrating if you havent used pocket holes much because of the tendency of the material being attached moving as the joint is tightened.
-If you're going to hire this out the carpenter will do and charge what he is comfortable with, if you specify a method he is not comfortable with it likely will not turn out well.
-Alot of people like the drywall returns with a wood sill using bullnose to soften the opening, its not too much wood if you know what I mean, especially on a deep opening.

Looks. All the trim in the house is flat boards with chamfered corners, 1 x 4 casings and 1 x 6 baseboards. I didn't want to use the usual colonial, etc., trim, but rather something more of the craftsman or mission look, and I don't care for rounded corners! The pictures in the thread I reference show the casings.

A contractor in my area uses three drywall returns and makes the sills with ceramic tiles. Any design and color can be used. In rooms with tile floors the sills are often made of the same tiles. It definitely will not rot or become damaged due to rain through an open window.