I am going to build a 2-story house, plus basement, of full height ICF walls, probably using the Logix platinum ICFs.  I live in Seattle and am concerned about seismic strength.  From what I have read, the floor/wall connection is crucial.  I am afraid that simply tying TJI floors into the concrete may rip out too easily.

Has anyone had any experience with, or know of, a good floor system to tie into ICF walls?

Thanks, Thor.

Thor,
You might want to post your question on the ICF forum.
Richm

Most common is to hagne inside with bolts or simpsons using a ledger and hangers.
Been doing so for a while and no problems in sight.

You should look into Quad-Deck.

http://www.quadlock.com/images/engi..._steps.png  

http://www.quadlock.com/insulated_c..._video.htm

http://www.quadlock.com/technical_l...QD-101.pdf

I would definitely go with Bar-Joist and metal decking.  I poured my basement walls and then made 12"x6" metal plate with a 4 ft. piece of rebar up through the center of it. (3ft on top and 1ft on bottom)  This will help tie your basement blocks to your first floor and then from the first floor to the second floor.

The metal plates were inserted directly after the pour was finished and then leveled with the transit.  Also before setting the plates, I would mark the ICF blocks on the inside of the basement wall so that you know where the bar joist are going to set.  This will help line up the metal plates so that the joist doesn't fall directly on the rebar sticking out for the next floor blocks. 

Then after the concrete has setup for a couple of days.  Then set your beams, if you have any.  Then set your bar joist and weld them in place to the plates and the beams.  Then weld the angle iron joints that tie the joists together so they won't roll or twist.  Then set your metal decking on and then screw the decking down with some heavy duty self drilling screws.   I bought my screws in bulk from FASTENAL.

Then get ready to set the ICF blocks for the next floor.  We poured all of the walls to the roof before we poured the floors.  Just in case something fell, it didn't crack or chip the concrete floors.  Then we came back and poured the floors with a pump truck also.  As far as insulating the floors, you can either foam the bottom of the bar-joist or I chose to use 2" Foam board so that I could plastic staple my radiant tubing to foam board.  I would recommend laying down all of the foam board and then duct tape the joints.  Then chalk line all of the walls, be sure to mark the inside and outside of the wall so that you can put in any conduit or plumbing sleeves or duct work or vent runs.  I framed my vents with wood so that the wall would sit right on top of the vent hole.

Make sure to double check and recheck every single hole that you need and I would put some extra holes in for wiring or plumbing.  The reason I said to lay out your walls first is because when you are running your pex, you don't want it to run under your walls that you will be tapconing down to the concrete floor.

Then it is time to pour.  I would also recommend starting at the top floor first and then work your way down.  This is the way we did ours and it worked out nice, but I am sure you can start at the bottom also.  My radiant manifolds are either in a wall with hidden panels or under the floor up in the bar-joist with a ceiling panel.

 

 

I used Hambro for second floor and roof of my concrete casa. The company was excellent to deal with and the product went up very well even with a crew with no specific Hambro experience.

Yggdrasill;

Deitrich trade Ready and marinoware are both cost effective systems that can be used with a plywood deck or metal pan and light weight concrete