I have always left the ICF coatings (stucco, synthetic coatings and so on) to others. But I want to get into it, so I am trying to learn all I can. I want one easy to apply.

What is the difference between premixed bucket coatings like Styro Industries and bag mixes?

Are the bag mix base coats usually cementitious and the finish coats non-cementitious acrylic?

Brad:

There are several good coatings that cover ICF. Look at Permacrete (www.permacrete.com) based in Nashville and they have been around 20 years. A synthetic acrylic polymer, it is different from traditional stucco.

Google EIFS and see Dryvit, Sto, Synergy, etc. It is just like ICFs. Pretty muchy they all work, it is the installer that makes the difference.

Bob Gieser
BNE Enterprises-ky
(916) 214-4398 EST

I have had several sources advise against the use of synthetic coatings.  One contact recently was a commercial architect who strongly advised against.  He said the only tried a true method would be natural stucco if that is the look that I was after.  The issues regarding moisture penetration and its problems may have reason for concern with synthetic applications.  I was going to apply a synthetic over ICF and was still advised to rethink.

I need to cover a small area of foam. What do people think of the one-coat stucco mixes made for foam by Sakrete and Quikrete?

Bernie -- Most likely any issues associated with moisture penetrations (for your architect) were associated with synthetic over conventional - wood etc. Not an issue whatsoever with ICF where there are no biodegradables. In fact, although if done properly there are no issues with real stucco, synthetics are flexible and much more likely to prevent water penetration since real stucco with 'always' crack a bit. Regards.

Many of the coatings are waterproof, or can be made waterproof.

We are distributor of GigaCrete's products  PlasterMax interior ICF coating and StuccoMax- the Green Stucco material.
They are the state of the Art extreme performance green building coatings.They have zero smoke/flame, No VOX's No Portland cement, mold/mildew/insect/woodpecker/hurriacaine/ballistic  resistant.  StuccoMax over foam had no breakage of the mesh at 211 lbs   Level 3!  For more info see www.TheGreenBuildingProductsStore.com

Brad : IMHO for what its worth :-)
I prefer resin basecoat mixes over bag mixes.
1. Working time is more consistant and so is the mix. Not much more $$
2. When you add water to the bag mix you can help create efflorescence if the water is really hard :-(
Inlet metal flashings into the ICF above all exposed window and door headers.
Think through your flashing strategy to divert all water to the exterior.
Shelter your wall to avoid capturing H2O within the block seams during application.
Use backer rod and caulk around each opening with your foam trims.
I assume you are competant with a hawk and trowel. lol
Take a short course, Sto, Dryvit, Synergy are all excellent products.

I would like to avoid using foam trim around opening. Any ideas how? It was not recommended we go directly over metal flashing.

Since I started this thread we did an exterior of one of our ICF houses with Dryvit.

The metal flashing I refer to is a "drip edge" only at the top of the window head.
We flash the balance with a "peel and stick" from Synergy which has a fuzzy face that accepts acrylic, unlike most others.
Foam trims help provide a "gap" between dissimilar materials. ei vinyl extruded window frame and foam face,
which as we all know have differing rates of expansion and contraction.
Backer rod in the "gap" and a good bead of caulking is useful in eliminating water penetration and the expansion thing both.
My guess is that your Dryvit manual shows a similar method for surface mounted windows.

For windows mounted flush to the interior face of wall, your stucco returns shold be done first, allowing a gap to shim,
and place your backer rod into.
Your sill now becomes the most critical point of water entry, and really should be well sloped, or capped with masonry or metal.

There must be a way to eliminate the window bands. I am willing to compromise on the seal quality. It is my own house, 4' eves and ICF.

The Fibertec windows we used, we opted for an aluminum trimline brickmound that I suppose you could put the flashing tape (aquaflex?) from Dryvit over top of it, and stucco over top of it.  Not the recommended installation method, but if it's your own house and you don't care for water sealing, you might be able to get around it.

http://www.fibertec.com/casementOpt...80

Take a look at the second diagram down the page.

Victor
www.ecobuilthome.ca
A 4350sqft cold climate Net Zero Energy initiative

"Synerflash" peel and stick is probably your best option.
You can mud and mesh over it.
Don't forget to prime the ICF :-)

4 ft eves, sounds like a Chalet !

If I installed Senerflash over the window nailer flange, and a shallow casing bead, like this 3/16" one. http://www.plasticomponents.com/eif...nglish.pdf

Or install a temp stop the thickness of the base-coat and finish.

Then caulk the gap, no room for backer rod.