Any one checked out the "Passive house in the Woods".  Here is the link:  http://www.passivehouseinthewoods.com/ 

ICF- Walls R70 Ceiling R90, I understand that the home is a passive design; yet where is the cut-off to recouping or recovering your incrased initial investment (Pay back-period)?  I used to think that I had to have the best technoligies & sytems, and now the older I get I feel that the best way to go is building a sound structure with quality materials and not pay an extra 50K - 100K into the project.  You will never get your money back from the origional investment.  I guess if I have to pay an extra $1000.00/yr to heat and cool my home I am still ahead of the game.  Just wanted to know what the general mind-set is out there! 

FYI - I have personally built and installed several types of houses and structure for my family.

1)  House I live in - Custom hand scribed log home w/a Geohtermal Heat pump.  Radiant In-floor Heat Basement, Radiant In-Floor Heat main floor (Gyp crete)  Vermont Casting - Dutchwest XL- wood stove
1a) Detached Garage - Radiant heat / Electric Mini-Boiler

2) 38 X 90 Garage w/ apartment - ICF 6" Fox Block   Built on frost Protected Slabe-on-grade w/oversized tourned down footing.

Hank,
Basically, I agree with your suggestion. It is really difficult to justify spending money that can never be recovered during the life of the building.
This is an even greater problem here in KY with our moderate climate, where spending thousands of dollars on upgrades will only recover tens of dollars in monthly energy savings.

WI HANK, Interesting article -- I may have missed it but how did they provide the R-70 walls

And how did they spend an additional 50 - 100K and on what ? Regards.

Texas ICF - What they did was placed an additional 11" of high density foam sheets on the outside of the ICF.  Total wall was 22" wide, R 70.  The owner does state that he understands he will will never recover the added upfront cost.  I would entertain the idea on my next house, but i would really have to look at the numbers.  If I had to pay a contractor to build me a house I would probably not pay for any of this "green" technology, it all is too much money!  For the money i think an ICF-basement, stick frame main floor w/spray foam and call it a day.  Hank

Hank,

Thanks for the follow-up. Basically, I'm with you. I was just curious because sometimes these structures make the ICF seem more expensive than it really is. I would, however, go all the way up to the top-plate with the ICF . Then in order to finish it off "properly" use green brick or green stucco and water grass just often enough! Regards.

Go to Buildit Solar. They have a cost versus r-value section that takes the B.S. out of figuring the payback on increasing the insulation in a given wall, window ,or ceiling area.

Go to Buildit Solar. They have a cost versus r-value section that takes the B.S. out of figuring the payback on increasing the insulation in a given wall, window ,or ceiling area.

how do you securely attach 11" of exterior foam?

Wonder what the construction cost was? I guess the Doc had plenty of money to spend to achieve this smaller energy footprint. Kinda like I can advise anyone how to lower their monthly mortgage payment, just put more down

I think the trick is for the masses, is to zero in on the most cost effective method/materials for the build and projected occupancy period.

I met the passive house designer at my lake property in MN a yr or two ago. He seemed like a great knowledgeable guy and I'm sure works with whatever the customers wants/needs/goals are.