Farmboy
 Basic Member
 Posts:356
 |
|
|
|
ICFHybrid
 Veteran Member
 Posts:3039
 |
| 07 Jan 2011 12:09 AM |
|
I'm not sure we needed another industry-funded ICF study. "The Portland Cement Association and the Ready-Mix Concrete Research Foundation are funding the Hub’s research..." What's most interesting is that they are using a 75 year lifespan for the ICF structures. They don't apply 75 year lives to stick-frame homes, do they? |
|
|
|
|
renangle
 Basic Member
 Posts:304
 |
| 07 Jan 2011 09:52 AM |
|
I have heard of this study, but I do have a question regarding this finding: "For residential buildings, ICF construction can offer operational energy savings of at least 20% compared to code-compliant wood-framed buildings in a cold climate such as Chicago." Hasn't most that have experience in ICF builds found that once complete they are substantial more than 20% more energy efficient? Also, they would require a much smaller HVAC than a code compliant wood-framed building. |
|
|
|
|
BrucePolycrete
 Advanced Member
 Posts:524
 |
| 07 Jan 2011 10:08 AM |
|
I looked over the report quickly, but business is heating up lately so we haven't had any time to do an analysis of the finding. Maybe one of the experts at the ICFA can review it and issue comments... |
|
|
|
|
ICFHybrid
 Veteran Member
 Posts:3039
 |
| 07 Jan 2011 11:07 AM |
|
I think the interim report can be summarized as; 1. Concrete buildings are tight and save energy. 2. Saving energy over the lifespan of the building tends to offset the higher upfront carbon cost. 3. Particularly when you use 75 years as a lifespan. |
|
|
|
|
TexasICF
 Advanced Member
 Posts:622

 |
| 07 Jan 2011 05:04 PM |
|
Some comments to above regarding the report. I provided 10-15 homes here in Texas for the MIT test.
Renangle said:
“Hasn't most that have experience in ICF builds found that once complete they are substantial more than 20% more energy efficient? Also, they would require a much smaller HVAC than a code compliant wood-framed building.”
- yes, typical savings substantially exceed 20%. It is my unproven hypothesis that the reason the result of the report is low is because they did not differentiate between homes with conventional attic (e.g. BAT) and a more modern sealed attic (e.g. semi-conditioned using foam). When the detailed report comes out I may be proven wrong but I don’t think so since I’ve seen many of the blower door tests (including many for ICF homes with conventional attics). I did not provide a single home that did not have a modern attic. In fact if someone wants ICF and they don’t want to do the attic properly I usually walk away. Why? They are almost guaranteed to be unhappy or at least less happy. I call ICF with conventional roof / attic “a screen door on a submarine”. The fact that these screen doors were also included in many homes knocked the data down substantially.
ICFHybrid said:
I think the interim report can be summarized as;
1. Concrete buildings are tight and save energy. 2. Saving energy over the lifespan of the building tends to offset the higher upfront carbon cost. 3. Particularly when you use 75 years as a lifespan.
Basically, I agree with you. I would like to add however, that even with (what to me is unrealistically low 20% savings), the carbon cost accounting is vastly in favor of the ICF in only the first few years.
From the report: “More than 90% of the life-cycle carbon emissions are due to the building’s operation phase, with construction and end-of-life disposal accounting for less than 10% of the total emissions.”
Thus it will only take a very few years for the ICF home to beat conventional. I didn't bother to do the math but if you go out 75 years if the wood home is still standing it will have created a huge Carbon footprint a least a magnitude higher than the ICF home. I may have to do that math but at 20% better every year it's a lot better.
In summary from the report:
In an interview with BUILDER, Ochsendorf conceded that the higher construction costs which builders typically ascribe with energy efficiency continue to be “an honest-to-God barrier” to better building, especially when builders are hardly ever the operators of what they build, so their concerns about long-term post-construction energy efficiency often end at the closing.
Imagine that!
Regards, |
|
|
|
|
BrucePolycrete
 Advanced Member
 Posts:524
 |
| 07 Jan 2011 08:01 PM |
|
Thanks for that important contribution, Tex. |
|
|
|
|
renangle
 Basic Member
 Posts:304
 |
| 11 Jan 2011 09:07 AM |
|
Hello Everyone - there is a Webinar regarding the progress made with the MIT study today at 3pm. I believe access information (space is somehow limited) can be located below. Join us for a Webinar on January 11 Space is limited. Reserve your Webinar seat now at: https://www3.gotomeeting.com/register/552609918 Please join us for a presentation on the different ways in which industry can fully engage in the MIT Report Launch to maximize the report's impact and sustain momentum for the industry going forward. Title: Mercury - MIT Report Industry Webinar Date: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 Time: 3:00 PM - 4:00 PM EST
|
|
|
|
|
TexasICF
 Advanced Member
 Posts:622

 |
| 04 Aug 2015 07:23 PM |
|
Ren, Hope you are well. Did you attend this webinar from way back (yeah Abraham Lincoln was president). If so, what did you learn. If you don't recall I understand. Just curious. Regards. |
|
|
|
|
ronmar
 Basic Member
 Posts:479
 |
| 05 Aug 2015 11:45 AM |
|
Since you dredged this thread up TexasICF, can you elaborate on the makeup of your "more modern" sealed attic spaces? IE: A conventional attic space would be, from bottom to top: Drywall, vapor barrier, bottom chord, batt or blown-in, ventilated space, top chord and roof system. We are about to start construction and are planning a conventional attic. Just trying to get my brain around the makeup of a possibly better way Thanks |
|
|
|
|
TexasICF
 Advanced Member
 Posts:622

 |
| 05 Aug 2015 04:58 PM |
|
Ronmar, I don't like conventional attics with ICF construction because they (in my experience) never perform as well (thermally). Actually, I don't think they are a good idea for stick construction either. Where are you building? Why let the heat in and fight it when you can leave it outside? Why have a whole bunch of hot air blowing in when the AC system turns on when your attic is 120°. The reason our ICF work is performing better than the math says It should is due to the fact that windows, doors and roof have been improved greatly leaving "opportunity" to improve the walls via ICF. Walls are normally or historically have been a smaller percentage of the thermal envelope. Basically, making the strongest link stronger doesn't help the system or the synergy. Regards |
|
|
|
|
Dana1
 Senior Member
 Posts:6991
 |
| 05 Aug 2015 05:12 PM |
|
Posted By ronmar on 05 Aug 2015 11:45 AM
Since you dredged this thread up TexasICF, can you elaborate on the makeup of your "more modern" sealed attic spaces? IE: A conventional attic space would be, from bottom to top: Drywall, vapor barrier, bottom chord, batt or blown-in, ventilated space, top chord and roof system. We are about to start construction and are planning a conventional attic. Just trying to get my brain around the makeup of a possibly better way Thanks
Inserting a vapor barrier behind the ceiling gypsum would be a mistake in most of the eastern US, where outdoor humidity levels can sometimes exceed air conditioned room temperatures, resulting in condensation on the vapor barrier. Only in the coldest parts of the US would inserting an interior side vapor barrier in a ceiling stackup have any benefit. In most places the potential risks exceed the potential benefits, and in the high-humidity high cooling load gulf coast states it's practically asking for trouble. Even in much of eastern Canada (where building codes strongly encourage or outright demand) vapor barriers in ceilings it can be a mistake in an air-conditioned house. A possibly better way would be to install a half-inch OSB air-barrier on the underside of the truss chords to support the high-R attic insulation, and use 2x4s perpendicular to the truss chords to support the ceiling gypsum, and as a wiring chase, etc. With slab-on-grade type construction an even deeper ceiling chase can be designed-in to accommodate cooling/heating ducts etc. That way the penetrations of the air barrier are much fewer and more secure, and the ducts stay inside the pressure & thermal boundary of the house. Given the inherent air tightness of ICF walls it's downright shameful that many existing ICF houses don't even meet IRC 2012 air tightness levels (3 ACH/50 pa ) due to the "sea of recessed lights" and/or other air leaks in the ceilings. |
|
|
|
|
TexasICF
 Advanced Member
 Posts:622

 |
| 05 Aug 2015 05:35 PM |
|
Excluding ICF ceilings or ICF roofs --- It's clear from Dana's post that the ICF has nothing to do with contributing to Air infiltration. This is why I submitted all of my jobs to the MIT study only with sealed attics. |
|
|
|
|
ronmar
 Basic Member
 Posts:479
 |
| 05 Aug 2015 07:18 PM |
|
Risk from condensation of high humidity on the upper side over an air conditioned space? I could see that back east or south especially if there wasn't much insulation  I am in the Pacific Northwest, no air conditioning here, only ventilation and heat in the winter months. My consideration of an air barrier was purely to aid in air leakage control to try and get a low leakage air infiltration number, and to keep inside moisture away from the winter cooler attic space. I don't think there is too much of a chance to get condensation on the top side here. The OSB layer sounds interesting though, as there will be a buttload of insulation up there. how do you seal the seams? Being in a seismic zone, there is a large re-enforcement bracing requirement for the walls thru the roof structure(ratruns every 48") which will bear some of the insulation weight. Perhaps I didn't express myself clearly initially. Can someone describe the makeup of a non habitable, non storage sealed attic constructed with conventional wood trusses? Or is there no such thing using conventional trusses? Thanks |
|
|
|
|
billnaegeli
 Basic Member
 Posts:166
 |
| 05 Aug 2015 07:39 PM |
|
ok i am about to start a whole new debate but i am down with TexasICF, we have been spray foaming the underside of the roof deck with open cell, including the rafters, we have not had any problems with this method and it is actually endorsed by Pathnet Technologies which is a quasi-public company. the thermal envelope is critical and it really does need to be airtight, i have some contractors who will spray foam the ceiling(on the attic side) then put in some batt insulation where they are trying to get a sealed attic, but as stated earlier - "can lighting" tends to be a problem for that application, but they are usually just trying to keep the cost down. it is a bit more expensive but the prices are coming down at least around the east coast we are in the 3-4 p/sqft range now, so it is a great option, not the least costly but in my opinion(for what its worth). the most cost efficient and effective if you are using ICF it just makes sense, now with that said if you have a roof that is a 14/12 or some crazy extreme pitch then yeah its gonna cost alot more? so then you may have to look at the other options, but the ideal attic is unvented for ICF applications, did i just ht the hornets nest? well see? |
|
GNP Inc ICF Construction & Concrete Services 1-800-713-7663 |
|
|
FBBP
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1215
 |
| 05 Aug 2015 10:59 PM |
|
The only reason for a non vented attic is to keep the HORNETS OUT ;-)) You are absolutely correct that the thermal envelope is critical but why would you enlarge it? Even a low 4/12 pitch adds a few points to the envelope. Also you have that many more cubic feet of airspace to condition. If foam is the answer, why not just spray the top of the drywall? Wiring, can lighting and all? If insulation external to the sheathing on walls will protect the sheathing from condensate, why would the R40 of insulation not protect the vapour barrier from condensation? If the condensation point is the vapour barrier, would it not be the drywall if there was no vapour barrier? Resulting in saturated and falling ceilings? Having been born and raised in southern Ontario and having most of my siblings still living there and a number in the construction trades, I have never heard of a condensate issue connected with a vapour barrier in the ceiling. These have been required for over three decades so I would think that it would have been apparent by now if there was issues. Southern Ontario being farther south then much of the east coast and approaching the same humidity levels.
|
|
|
|
|
arkie6
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1453
 |
| 06 Aug 2015 12:25 AM |
|
Posted By FBBP on 05 Aug 2015 10:59 PM
You are absolutely correct that the thermal envelope is critical but why would you enlarge it? Even a low 4/12 pitch adds a few points to the envelope. Also you have that many more cubic feet of airspace to condition. If foam is the answer, why not just spray the top of the drywall? Wiring, can lighting and all?
 In my area and most of the south, many if not most homes are built
slab-on-grade with all of the duct work located in the attic. And many
homes have the air handler located in the attic as well (I pity the HVAC
tech that has to work on those in the summer). That is the only time I
see an advantage to spray foaming at the roof line. But the cost,
assuming it is insulated to code minimum (often not), is many more times
the cost to air seal at the ceiling and meet or exceed code minimum blown
in insulation at the ceiling. I can have R49 stabilized cellulose blown
in above my ceiling for less than the cost of 1" of closed cell spray
foam at the roof line.  |
|
|
|
|
jonr
 Senior Member
 Posts:5341
 |
| 06 Aug 2015 10:53 AM |
|
If overhead ducts are needed, I'd consider some type of plenum truss design that allows them to be part of conditioned space. |
|
|
|
|
smartwall
 Veteran Member
 Posts:1209

 |
| 06 Aug 2015 01:31 PM |
|
Raised heel truss between the icf walls and R=60 celly blown in contact with the icf walls for about $1.20 per sq ft blows spray foam out of the water for performance at a great price. As far as recessed lights, you would have to be a moron not to use the high efficiency sealed cans on the market now. One thing here that makes foam less efficient is the fact that you can have 12' high trusses, so that means your conditioning a lot more cu ft of space than if you insulate the ceiling. |
|
|
|
|
Dana1
 Senior Member
 Posts:6991
 |
| 06 Aug 2015 03:29 PM |
|
Posted By ronmar on 05 Aug 2015 07:18 PM
Risk from condensation of high humidity on the upper side over an air conditioned space? I could see that back east or south especially if there wasn't much insulation I am in the Pacific Northwest, no air conditioning here, only ventilation and heat in the winter months. My consideration of an air barrier was purely to aid in air leakage control to try and get a low leakage air infiltration number, and to keep inside moisture away from the winter cooler attic space. I don't think there is too much of a chance to get condensation on the top side here. The OSB layer sounds interesting though, as there will be a buttload of insulation up there. how do you seal the seams? Being in a seismic zone, there is a large re-enforcement bracing requirement for the walls thru the roof structure(ratruns every 48") which will bear some of the insulation weight. Perhaps I didn't express myself clearly initially. Can someone describe the makeup of a non habitable, non storage sealed attic constructed with conventional wood trusses? Or is there no such thing using conventional trusses? Thanks
No air conditioning in the PNW? Even THIS year? (My Puget Sound region relatives heating with mini-splits were happy to run them in air-conditioning mode extensively in the past 6-8 weeks!). But the outdoor dew points there stayed well below room temps, unlike more humid regions, so you're right, the condensation risk is very low. But you still don't need or want polyethylene in the stackups. In the Pacific Northwest there is zero rationale for a vapor barrier in the ceiling, since the outdoor & attic air temps are (nearly) always near or above the dew point of the conditioned space air. In climates where the attic might average 20F or colder over the winter there is a vapor pressure delta between conditioned space air (with a dew point of 35-40F), and the much colder attic, which moves moisture via vapor diffusion to collect in the wood or insulation layers colder than the indoor dew point air. Indoor dew points are a bit higher in the PNW at about 45F, but so is the wintertime outdoor temperature averages. In the summer the average outdoor dew points average below 50F, and never above 70F, which is about the coolest most people would air condition a house. Still, if you're using broadsheet goods simply as an air-barrier, use housewrap, which would limit the size of the puddle when the roof leaks, and make discovery of the leak sooner. But it's no more difficult and often easier to get a reliable air seal using a rigid air barrier than it is with flexible goods, sealing the seams of the gypsum (or OSB) and can-foaming/caulking any wiring/plumbing penetrations. Air-sealing flue penetrations to rigid goods with sheet metal is also easier than with more flammable/melt-able flexible sheet materials. There are fancy tapes suitable for sealing the seams of OSB (perhaps
more appropriate for exterior sheathing than this application) but it
can also be air-sealed with fiber reinforced duct mastic, and any
wiring/plumbing penetrations can be can-foamed or caulked with acoustic
sealant, etc. OSB is a "smart" vapor retarder. When installed on the interior it'll usually stay dry enough (6-12% moisture content) to run about 0.5 perms most of the time, which is well into class-II vapor retardency ( and an order of magnitude more vapor tight than standard latex paint.) But if the RH on the attic side increases dramatically (as it would in the southeast in the summer, or if there were a roof leak), as the moisture content of the OSB rises it becomes more vapor open, allowing the moisture to diffuse into the conditioned space to be managed by the air conditioning rather than collect all summer and grow mold in the insulation (or worse), the way it can with a poly vapor barrier. OSB also supports a lot more insulation weight over bigger spans without sagging or breaking than ceiling gypsum. It's a cost-adder, to be sure, but it adds resilience. |
|
|
|
|