Quadlock offers a 225$ 'seminar' that is two days long and prepares you to build walls and floors. Is it worth it do it yourself and save a decent amount of money?

How big of a 'risk' is there of a failure weeks or months down the road? I would hire a bracing company because I dont have the expertise for that.

This is for all ICF companies, not just quadlock.

Thanks

ICF construction is not a do-it-yourself project. Unless you're a competent builder with experience in concrete work, you're playing with fire by thinking that you can learn enough in a $225 seminar to build an ICF house. Please contract with a qualified ICF installation contractor in order to get a top notch result. Do your due diligence. Check his references. At the very least, interview and hire an experienced ICF installer to work alongside you. Concrete work is not like stick framing -- you can't mess it up a few times before you get it right. With concrete you only get one chance.

. My dog Wilson can stack icf's. The critical part of icf construction is the pour. A do-it-yourselfer should have someone who has poured icf's before run the pour. That is the critical part of the build. Once the concrete starts flowing you own it. The mix, the pumping co., how you place the concrete and how and what you use to vibrate are all major considerations

That 225 seminar is what most contractors go through and send their "qualified" installers to. So do it if you feel up to it. If you understand leveling, etc. Only, like smartwall says, find an experienced person to do the pour.

Smartwall also has a very smart dog. He was likely named for either President Woodrow Wilson or Tom Hanks' best friend in Castaway.

Regardless, Polycrete typically trains installers for free on the job. However they have to already have a contractor's license. If you are an experienced contractor, go ahead, take the course and go for it. Good luck.

Some of it I think depends on the complexity of the build. If you are building 4 corner and relatively not that complicated you can do it yourself, but I would rent bracing and/or as Bruce mentioned hire a professional for the day of the pour. The professional will cost a few $100.00, but if you don't and you have a problem, it could easily cost you substantially more than the cost of the professional.

If you have a complex design (different wall heights, several corners, perhaps a radius), I would advise finding a professional.

renangle

What luck..a recent post! I am curious to know if you guys see anything wrong with placing the forms to be poured over several days time. I have access to left over cement from a friend who delivers concrete and has leftovers he has to haul off unless I can use it.  Not sure the time span, but was interested to know if it could be used with ICF for a three sided addition to a small rockhouse. The addition would be approximately 9'x9' with a 14ft height. I am hoping to do this myself and a helper, but of course want it to work. Thanx for any pointers!

Jacey:

I believe this would be a mistake , Concrete for icf needs be a specific slump , usually employs the use of a pump truck , a yard here and there from other concrete projects wouldnt in my opinion be wise.
P

Thanks everybody for the replies and opinions. I have not decided if I am going to do it myself or not yet. I was just pondering the idea!

You could use a forklift with concrete bucket instead of a pump. Don't know that a cold joint or two would be so bad. Use plenty of rebar, maybe larger or double.

I've been pondering this project so long, have gone the gammet from strawbale, to making my own hay/mud/ whatever bricks...to mud wattle, which believe it or not one of my neighbors actually accomplished in a not so shabby little geometric shaped house built into a hill. She had three robust 20ish sons with tons of energy and a clay supply on a ranch. It cracked some, but I think she just slaps more mud on it as neccessary. I only need the three walls, but they will be 14 feet high, so really would like this to be a good idea. Wonder if the idea of community barnraising will return in this unbelievable economy. What would be the sanest most economical thing, back to concrete block?

Hate to say it, but if you're trying to find a cheap house, why don't you just go buy a foreclosure somewhere and fuggetaboutit?

You might consider hadit block on a slab,reinforced beam at edge of slab. You can stack block and fill with concrete as you go with rebar at every 2 ft in holes in slab. A6 2 ft vertically and horizontal.and a concrete roof and you have a storm shelter. Need about 3 yards for wall and 1 yard for roof. Roof could be metal deck on steel supports. Easy to do. You can mix and pour as you need. Block are cheap.

Forgot you could get free concrete. Get slab ready pour, partial wall, pour. It could happen. Similar to my walls. I poured every 4 ft vertically and bond beams at 4' horizontal and top course. Very strong.

Afton,  I had to google Haydite....I'm here in Central Texas..not sure of it's availability but will look around. Have heard of expanded shale. So if I am reading you right, you think I could pour this incrementally at 4 feet and then there is something at that level to brace with? Do you know of a website or other place I could get a visual of how this looks and is done?

Wondered how to spell haydite. Computer can't spell it. Read a book on earth shelters and they layed con crete block without mortar. Filled with sand and water proofed outside like stucco type waterproof. My house was done with concrete block, little more expensive but much stronger. Used bracing similar to icp's, wood bracing. They did mortar and poured at 4' and roof line. I built and used a bucket with my fork lift to pour. Could use buckets.

Where in central Tx. I am from Brady originally. Live outside Ft Worth now.

Found where expanded shale is what haydite block is made of. Wonder if this is what lite weight concrete is made of? Probably could mix your own concrete with the shale for a roof.

There's a good website describing it. Google Haydite. If I'm reading it right, half the weight of cnocrete block, which is a big plus. Looks like it has to be cooked in a kiln with shale etc for the blocks..so doesn't appear it can be mixed with the raw concrete. I'm going to research it some more. Where did you find your source?

google, used to get liteweight concrete for elevated floors. Heard it easa mixed withlava rock.