My basement walls have been poured.  I wanted to do the waterproofing myself.  What waterproofing product is recommended?  Any recommended over others?   Would using a adhesive product and then the dimple product over that be the way to go or what? Any help appreciated.

What is your site and soil like?

The local ICF distributor here uses TAMKO TW-60 peel-n-stick rubberized asphalt sheets directly on the foam (or over primer if needed). Edges are sealed with the TAMKO mastic. Then I have seen fan folded 1/4" thick XPS foam taped over the peel-n-stick during the backfill to protect the waterproof layer. Almost all basements here are walkout with pipe and gravel drain systems down the hill so this generally works fine. If you had a greater chance of standing water next to the house, a dimple membrane over the peel-n-stick might be warranted.

http://www.tamko.com/Waterproofing/...ngMembrane

My soil type is clay. I dug down below the footing and put a 4" drain with 2" rock wrapped with a fabric. I plan on placing 2" rock all the way up the wall to the top. The house will have a 8' walk around porch around 90% of the house. The house is located on the top of a hill. I just want to do it right the first time.

If you are on top of a hill, and you can grade your clay soil so that all runoff is directed away, and the drainspouts don't dump by the foundation, and if you are sure there is no groundwater pressure or that the kids won't leave the hose running next to the foundation, then you are in pretty good shape.

Your next step would be to use a self-adhesive membrane like arkie6 mentioned above. Many different companies have a version which is generally 56 mil of sticky rubberized asphalt with a 4 mil or a 6 mil poly membrane stuck to it. I used Miradri 860/861 by Carlisle Coatings and Waterproofing (CCW). It ran about $125/roll of 36" X 66'. I sealed the bottom edge against the footing with a fillet of mastic.

There is a "primer" to use with it which is like a light contact cement. The primer would be required on porous surfaces like wood or concrete, but on clean dry ICF, you can probably get away without using it if you are going to do the backfill in a couple days.

Keeping a clean drainage plane against the foundation as you backfill (with the 2" rock you mentioned) is a good idea so no water pressure builds up against the sides. Now, you have a total water barrier and you have a drainage plane that will direct water down to your footing drains.

The next step (dimpled drainboard) is really only required in one or more of the following circumstances;

1. You are extremely compulsive
2. You suspect you will have standing water against the house
3. Your membrane needs to be protected from puncture by the backfill itself
4. You intend to backfill with expansive clay
5. You can't be bothered to backfill well enough to keep a gravel/drainrock screen against the foundation.

I used a dimpled drainboard (Delta Drain 6000 HS) which has a heavy, porous geotextile stuck to the "points" of the dimples. The flat board sticks to the membrane with heavy-duty contact cement and the backfill goes up against the fabric, creating a drain plane between the dimples. It was about $130/roll of 4' X 50'. Some of the dimpled drainboard variants require mechanical fastening to the wall which necessitates puncturing the membrane you just so carefully applied.

All these waterproofing products are heavy and awkward and you really need a team of two to do it well.

Here is the cost breakdown;

self-adhesive membrane : $0.63/sf
add water-based primer: $0.11/sf = $0.74/sf

add dimpled drainboard: $0.65/sf
contact cement : $0.20/sf = $0.85/sf

So, total cost is about $1.60/sf plus labor.

Mastic is about $150 per 5 gallon drum, which easily does one large foundation.

dimpled membrane is the best

One of the best methods of waterproofing ICFs is integral crystalline waterproofing, from Kryton International Inc. For all applications, including ICF, these products are added to the concrete during mixing and waterproof from the inside out. Chemical compounds react with available water and cementitious components within the concrete to grow crystals inside the capillary pores, cracks and joints. These crystals block the water flow. If a new crack forms later in the concrete, and water starts to penetrate, the chemicals react again to form new crystals that stop water ingress.

Because the waterproofing ability is integrated with the concrete itself, integral crystalline waterproofing systems can be used on any concrete shape. They cannot be scraped, punctured or torn; in fact, the waterproofing lasts for as long as the concrete. If water enters the concrete, the self-sealing ability of integral crystalline waterproofing systems ensures repair, which is difficult in ICF construction projects, is not needed.

In addition to these benefits, integral crystalline waterproofing eliminates workmanship issues as there is no installation required. Since no time is spent waiting for concrete curing, surface preparation and membrane installation, other construction steps can proceed without delay, saving money on the project. As with all waterproofing methods, the effectiveness of integral crystalline waterproofing is dependent on quality workmanship and in particular, proper concrete consolidation. Good concrete practices need to be adhered for waterproofing to be effective.

www.kryton.com

Has this Krypton waterproofing been given any type of approval stamp in regards to the OBC (ontario building code).

Krypton, Can you address cost per cubic yard and the maximum size crack that can be blocked by Krypton.

We have not sought OBC approval for this application but if you would like us to talk to your engineer, we shouldn’t have a problem getting a stamp on the design. For addition background information, please read an article about a Kryton ICF project in a trade publication:
http://www.kryton.com/_webapp_3801584/Importance_of_waterproofing_is_crystal_clear