In preparing for my home to be built we have been going back and forth on what exterior finish to use on our ICF to the roof build. We first thought vinyl but after reading many good things about stucco we really like the idea of a stucco home as there are very few in my area. However the home will be built from the footer to the roof with ICF. If I have stucco done how do you transition the stucco to the grade level? Being the ICF foam is the part being stucco I dont quite understand how you stop the stucco before grade level. Im worried about it absorbing moisture if it goes to the ground not to mention the weed eater shredding the foam if you stop the stucco higher. What am I missing?

The stucco industry has a different stucco, higher cement and additives, commonly referred to as parging, that is acceptable for contact with the ground.

A lot of the answers depends on WHERE you are building? Conventional stucco doesn't work well in climates that see very cold temps as stucco is NOT waterproof and will absorb moisture and let moisture get behind it, when it gets below freezing, it will freeze and crack the stucco. That's why its used in Phoenix but not used in places like Chicago.

In such climates you have the option of using synthetic stucco's (EIFS, acrylic, etc) and some are waterproof. StuccoMax is a non- cement product as it contains no Portland cement. So it shouldn't see cracking due to freeze upheavals.

Conventional cement based stucco needs to "breathe" and release the moisture it absorbed behind it, hence the reason they install weep screeds at the bottom of the stucco wall where it transitions to the footer.

Really?? - conventional stucco has been used in all regions of Canada since before Confederation.

Posted By FBBP on 20 Jul 2013 06:47 PM
Really?? - conventional stucco has been used in all regions of Canada since before Confederation.

Why don't the use cement based conventional stucco in places like Chicago? I've never seen a stucco home in Chicago and I lived there for 2 decades. I was always told that it's because conventional cement based stucco cracks due to freezing temps. One has to use synthetic based stucco's in such climates.

Back in the early 70's I lived in a house south of Pittsburgh that was stucco on top of clay tile. It had been built about 1916. Pittsburgh may not be Chicago, but it does get cold and freezing there. It's still there, 40 years later! Picture from Google Street View. 110 Crestview Dr, Canonsburg, PA

According to Journal of Light Construction, cement based stucco should only be used in dry & hot climates or if in cold climates where there is very little moisture during winter.

Here in Arizona once you get far enough north of 6,000 feet elevation, they stop using stucco and revert to Hardiboard siding, vinyl or wood siding, brick facade, and they do away with stucco. In Flagstaff (very cold winters) the homes don't have stucco finishes but in Phoenix it's stucco everywhere.

I've never observed a stucco home anywhere in Chicago, Wisconsin, Michigan, Indiana, etc. It wasn't until I came out to the desert SW that I first saw a stucco home in person. Yet when you go from Phoenix to Flagstaff they stop using stucco in Flagstaff. I've seen EIFS on some homes in Flagstaff but it's usually siding.

I'm really not sure now. The house will be in Indiana and it does get cold here and some moisture. Weather patterns are crazy. There are a few homes here that are of the stucco appearance but more hotels. I may do something like Dryvit but really unsure. I still don't understand what I should put on the ICF form to protect the form below the stucco to the grade. Maybe I should just go with a type of siding...

Google the following for some ideas:

waterproof surface bonding cement

Here is one example: http://www.silpro.com/datasheets/FSB.pdf

Another option if you are going with stucco above grade and have waterproofing below grade is the use of cement board with surface bonding cement over it at the transition. You could cut some sheets of 1/2" thick Duroc cement board approximately 1' wide, screw those to your ICF forms at grade level overlapping your below grade waterproofing with the top providing a screed edge for your stucco. Cover the cement board with surface bonding cement such as Quikcrete - Quikwall > here is the link to the datasheet: http://www.quikrete.com/PDFs/DATA_SHEET-Quikwall%20SBC%201230%201231.pdf

Stone is a great way to transition from ground level to stucco a few feet above grade. It gets pricy but I don't think the look of siding between the ground and stucco would be aesthetically pleasing.

On my ICF build, my stucco guy did a J-weepapproximately 6-12 inches from ground level as a stucco stop and weep screed for the drainage plane, and a parge coat below the J-weepto below grade. Note, the stucco guy put the parge coat on prior to the J-weep, building paper, and lathe so as not to obscure the drainage holes of the weep screed.

I've heard of some applications of stucco directly to the ICF foam, but seemed to be intended for EIFS. Still need a bond-break and drainage plane, hence two layers of Grade-D paper or equivalent.

Thanks to Lbear for the flashing detail, and that is the general method to follow, even if it is as simple as a "J" shaped termination strip. You may have a "rain-screen" layer behind the stucco or it may be direct-applied. In either case, there are products available to terminate the finish. Below, I would suggest magnesium oxide board cut to about 12" width, and adhered to the ICF. Failing a rigid board product (DONT use Hardi-plank...not rated for ground contact), use a fiber-reinforced, acrylic modified stucco. Quikcrete makes "FRS" (fiberglass reinforced stucco) that is quite good. Best stucco system I have seen to date is a hybrid cement/acrylic system called Sider-Crete. www.sider-crete.com They have an awesome pool finish as well. DJB

3 side of my house is stucco and front side is brick.

Result.

1 - I worked 5 times more to prepare brick side.
2 - Brick was realy heaviest part of my total project. It needs heavy machinery.
3 - You must find a good brick artist.

Brick? Never again.

But if you do not like brick. You can cover it with stucco later.

Again, check out Sider-Crete. They have a brick template that you stick over their base coat, then apply brick-colored stucco. Pull off the adhesive template, and voila.......brick you wouldn't be able to tell was any different than real.

www.sider-crete.com
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