So from reading on here it sounded like middle windows were the best way to go - limit wind and rain cooling the window, but give me fairly large window ledges and reduce the likey condensation on the sill due to my hubbys preference to keep drapes closed ALL THE TIME. Middle inset would also make it easier to add storm shutters for the french eclectic look we want.


However, my builder is proposing that to do middle-inset windows, wed need to add wood bucks (and $$$) to make it work.
This sounds like it may be counter-energy efficient, since we are adding wood?

Due to cost considerations, we are looking at using vinyl windows.

Curious for others thoughts....Ive attached his sketch as well.

Thanks!

Ditch the fox bucks and insert the wood bucks between the foam. If you want some extra insulation value glue some ripped sheet foam on the back of the wood bucks. This lets you use kd lumber, it's more stable and cost less. A much simpler window and door design , with a budget friendly bent.

Also since I've been in the window biz for a long time I would suggest you skip the new construction flanged window and use a replacement window that mounts thru the frame. Probably cost you less with the same quality and will lead to a easier install with less labor and details

Logix has just come out with a new foam buck that allows you to mount a traditional new construction window w/flange so you don't have to do the inset if you don't want to, IntegraSpec has had a foam buck system for years that allows you to inset your windows and mount them without the use of wood, if you are going to inset the window i would definitely not want wood on the outside frame.

Logix has just come out with a new foam buck that allows you to mount a traditional new construction window w/flange so you don't have to do the inset if you don't want to, IntegraSpec has had a foam buck system for years that allows you to inset your windows and mount them without the use of wood, if you are going to inset the window i would definitely not want wood on the outside frame.

billnaegeli - do you have a link to a drwg of that buck? I cant find it on logix website.

smartwall - interesting - i can ask our window supplier about reno windows. The ones they quoted came witha mounting flange with optional brickmould.

The other advantage of the replacement window is that is cut to 1/4" in width and height, so you can make your opening anything you want. Most companies can turn around an order in 2 weeks. The company that I buy from has 1 style for new construction but 4 up grades in the replacement window series. What are you using for the exterior?

The exterior is stucco, or 1" thick faux stone siding, depending on elevation details.

Much easier to detail with the replacement window. One thing about the Fox buck most people don't realize is hat the buck was designed for exterior door and window attachment. The buck is made from a regular web with the attachment flange in the edge of the buck. If you mount your windows in to the opening you would have to try to screw into the web where the rebar finger are located. Gook luck on hitting that, plus the pullout strength is negligible. They screwed the pooch on the design, should have made it fit between the icf walls and not outside it . I told this to my Fox rep when I saw the prototype, but to no avail. I'm still a wood buck fan , add insulation on the back and your good to go. When you inset the bucks all you have to do is use some 4" screw to go thru the form into the buck. It takes a lot less bracing with this method, that means time, that means money saved.

I've seen window areas have NO wood bucks and NO other type of vinyl or Fox buck. During form work, yes, there is a wood buck but once the concrete is cured they knock out the wood buck and just leave the exposed concrete and EPS.

The windows and doors are then mounted within the 6" concrete core and screws are used through the window frame directly into the concrete. This is the type of install that is used mainly in Europe. The windows and doors are securely mounted using the strength of the concrete core.

The window glazing can always be removed if needed but the window frame remains intact and sealed within the 6" concrete core.

Geergirl, sorry didnt get back to you sooner, the buck has not officially been rolled out yet or maybe they are abit behind with the marketing but i have received the first sets of them and they look like they will work fairly nice, i have a short video of it my son and i just did i can send it to you if you like, email me direcly not sure how this website works with emails and numbers, they are all a little different - you can get in touch with me on linkedin as well but my email is billatgnpbuilddotcom? talk soon

Smartwall, I like your bucking method. What's your preferred way to detail and flash a replacement style window that is inset several inches?

Posted By billnaegeli on 19 Jun 2015 02:54 PM
. . . not sure how this website works with emails and numbers, . . .

Bill,

E-mail addresses written in the usual manner is discouraged on this site.  I do not think the way you wrote your address will be removed by the administrator but it may be more difficult for people to understand when it is written all together.

The following is a note from the administrator:
No e-mail addresses in posts Please do not include your e-mail address in your posts. There are automatic programs called "bots" that will sift through all posts if there are e-mail addresses. They gather them for the spammers, and can overload our server making it unavailable to legitimate users.

I have been told that the way I write my e-mail address is acceptable.  Separating items as I do make it easier for people to understand it without the chance that "bots" will spam me or this forum's server.  My address is below in my signature block.

Alton-veteran member,
when greenbuildtalk figures out a way we can send links and pics i would not have to go 'OUTSIDE" of their element, unfortunately they seem content driven and contextually over managed! i like the forum and am i still only a dumb country boy who is a new member, please forgive the indiscretion how would you suggest to send a picture or a link?
appreciate any suggestions.

ShopGuy, If you are using a synthetic stucco, the best way is to run the finished surface into the buck area then set you window in with a low expansion foam and urethane caulk sealing the outside of the window to the stucco. Simple and never had a leak yet.

Posted By billnaegeli on 24 Jun 2015 10:10 PM 
. . .  how would you suggest to send a picture or a link? . . .

Here are the instructions from Feedback/Support at the bottom of the Green Building Talk screen under Rules, Instructions and Announcements and then under the topic Posting Links/URLs to post a link:

To post a link/URL:
In the Message Editor Form use the Link Icon (Globe Picture) located on the toolbar. Highlight the text you want to add a URL to and click the Link Icon. To post a link using HTML tags, type: Title


or see:
http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Fo...fault.aspx

GBT's instructions from the topic Uploading Images for attaching an image:

To attach an image with your post, use the Message Attachments option underneath the message editor. Click "Browse", select the image file from your computer, and then click "Open". You can insert up to 3 images. Each image must have a file size less than 100KB.


Everyone:  Since I do not normally post attachments, please correct my instructions if the method of posting attachments has changed.

Hi, Personally, I do not like the idea of adding wood bucks to my primarily concrete home addition. Attached is my current plan for window/door bucking. The ICF is Nudura One-Series singled sided. I want the interior walls of the home to be totally exposed concrete, including interior window and door areas. My plan is to rip the FoxBucks lengthwise as shown. Windows will be inset, straddling the FoxBuck/Concrete interface. I see no reason why the windows/door frames cannot screw directly into the FoxBuck webbing as the interior webbing area is apparently clearly marked on the FoxBuck face. The FoxBuck could be screwed through the outside Nudura face into the nailing strips along the side of the FoxBuck. The ripped side of the foxbuck could have small steel angles with lagging attached to the backside for secure concrete embedment. Exterior exposed window bucking area would get flashing, interior left exposed concrete. Any comments would be appreciated. Thank you.

Posted By rogerellingson on 28 Jun 2015 06:01 PM
Hi, Personally, I do not like the idea of adding wood bucks to my primarily concrete home addition.

You can also just knock out the wood window and door bucks once they are cured and just leave it exposed concrete and ICF. Just screw the windows and doors directly into the concrete core.

If the window is attached to the concrete core, then the core should be insulated to eliminate a thermal bridge. EPS could be extended up to both sides of the window and then the EPS covered with mortar. That would reduce the effect of the thermal bridge.

I was just talking to the FoxBlocks rep. He pointed out method should work for windows but not for doors. Doors too heavy to hang on the EPS webbing. I need to find a metal hanger for the door hinge side attachment that would embed through to concrete behind the EPS of buck.