I am bidding on a job with 600' of curb on a 12" ICF. The curb is to set the floor on. What is the best way to form this so the curb has the outside eps but not on the inside?

Brad, best approach is with the Polycrete Split-Blok. Bryant will follow up on the phone.

I am looking for the easiest way to do it with any or at least most horizontal ICFs. But attached should be a photo of an example.

Split-Blok comes with a panel heights of 12", 18" or 24" on one side and whichever of those sizes you want on the other side. Here's a pic of the Split-Blok. There's more on PolycreteUSA FB page

Here's another picture of the Polycrete Split-Blok

How high does the curb or offset need to be? i.e., what is the difference in height between the inside foam and the outside foam?

I would think this could be done with most of the horizontal knock-down type ICF such as LiteForm or Quad-Loc.

So thermally the floor is connected to the ICF core - or is there some solution to prevent that?

Posted By jonr on 12 Jan 2016 07:53 PM
So thermally the floor is connected to the ICF core - or is there some solution to prevent that?

Yes, but I didn't draw it. But since cheesy wood framing will go on it, what can I do? Still looking for advise on how to do a curb.

Posted By arkie6 on 12 Jan 2016 02:52 PM
How high does the curb or offset need to be? i.e., what is the difference in height between the inside foam and the outside foam?

I would think this could be done with most of the horizontal knock-down type ICF such as LiteForm or Quad-Loc.

The curb is drawn for a 6" high curb, but I think I will bid 8" to use half of an ICF. I am looking for an easy way to form the inside.

Trying to visualize the need for a curb? What kind of floor is going in? What kind of wall is going to be above the floor?

A curb is to create a ledge for the concrete floor, on grade, to sit on. It helps prevent perimeter settling of the floor the result of the once excavated fill around the perimeter settles. I would prefer that the excavator compacts well and we pin the floor to the ICF wall. But that is not how it was drawn. The curb also gets the wood framing above the floor height

OK, now I am tracking. What block are you using? Are they reversible? Depending on the crosstie orientation you might be able to cut a block on one side just ABOVE the lower cross tie and on the other side just BELOW the upper crosstie. This would get you 2 curbs out of each horizontal block. If you set a table saw fence at 5"(+ the interlock teeth height) you run it thru and cut the foam lengthwise on one side, then roll the block over and cut the other side. That would get you 2EA curbs, 5" on one side and 11" on the other with a 6" step between the two sides. I am building with Fox right now and that spacing would work with the Fox crosstie orientation...

LiteForm planks are only 8" tall. To create an 8" off-set, just leave off the inner plank on the last course. To create a 6" off-set, you could run the foam planks through a table saw and get two (2) 2" high planks from each foam plank to install on the inside of he top course. This would result in 4" of waste. If you had a 4" off-set, then you could just rip the plank in half and have no waste.  You would probably need to reinforce the outer foam plank on the top course to hold it straight by by screwing ~16" long wood scabs or plywood or OSB ripped panels across the outside top course joint.

Fox curb block would work nicely. Knowing the floor thickness would also help. There are a couple ways of achieving this. We do this often in garages to set the garage wall framing on a raised curb the thickness of the framing.

Brad - I'm sure this is to late for you, but we just use a brick ledge for the floor to sit on.