What is best way to install floor and ceiling trim in ICF home? Was thinking of using Brad or staple pneumatic gun. My concern is getting through the 1/2 inch drywall and into the plastic studs. This is build block ICF that has plastic studs even 6 inches. Thank you in advance.

I used trim screws, which were slow going and required more filler afterwards. I also used steel studs for my interior walls, so nails weren't going to cut it. I've heard of people using regular finish nails fired at an angle and construction adhesive, but my trim materials were too thick and rigid to pull in tight that way. I pre-drilled for the trim screws, as I found the heads did too much damage to the trim, raising a bulge around the head.

Hanki- What we do is hold the drywall up a little less than the width of the baseboard to be installed to screw a ripped strip of plywood backing. This enables the trim carpenters to install with their nail guns same as conventional construction. We also glue and screw heavy gauge tin at top corners of windows for window coverings and use 5/8 drywall on kitchen walls where cabinets are to be hung so we can screw 5/8 ply at the location where cabinets will be hung. Hope this helps.

I am going into the same dilemma but on my upper floor I did Global Block that has no plastic ties in it. I was thinking of attaching a 1x3 with tapcons before drywall to the foam. The drywall would then be set on top of the 1x3. The 1x3 would give my something to solidly nail the trim to and with the drywall on top the 1x3 would only be sticking out a quarter inch.

Still got to figure out the interface to the door trim but I am getting there.

We have been successful using a pneumatic nail gun and 1 5/8" - 2" long ring shank finishing naills for installing trim on BuildBlock ICF. We also place some clear silicone on the back of the trim before installing it for increased holding performance.

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I will try some of them before going all the way.

On my current build, which is my first ICF, I am putting up manufactured stone as a veneer, using metal lath attched to the ICF webs. After hopelessly trying to use screws, I was told to use coated staples minimum of 1.5" long. Although I was sketical at first, they have proven to work unbelievably well, holding to the web with force enough that it is very difficult to remove them. I plan on using either the same or will test 15 ga. finish nails when it comes time to run interior trim. And while silicone probably works well, PL 3000 polyurethane adhesive does too and is significantly less expensive, especially in the large tube format.

Baseboards can be attached easily into the webs with a brad nailer. Using a thicker gauge nail (I use 16 ga) holds much better than a thinner brad nail.

To find the fastening strips, put a piece of tape on the floor to mark a strip then lay out a measuring tape along the wall. Fastening points will be every 6"/8" (depending on block type). Be sure to mark any changes (eg, vertical stack seams) in web spacing along the wall.