How far in advance should I get bids on my home build in the Austin area. Thanks in advance.

Double J,
It's probably never too early to review drawings. Often small changes can significantly reduce costs and/or increase installation efficiency.

I would be glad to provide an estimate or recommend a local installer. Regards

TexasICF

Can you give a couple of examples of small changes that can significantly reduce cost? I like the sounds of that. My wife and I are drawing up floor plans and now is the time for advice like you mentioned.

Thanks

Texas can probably answer much better than me but I know reducing outside corners always reduce cost.

Predgw,
These days I am an ICF installation trainer (and no longer install) -- I agree with robinnc that most installers will charge more for a home with many corners (or forty fives) or non-standard degree corners such as 80 degrees or 100 degrees etc. Your roof design and construction will also be significantly impacted by this factor as well. I am off to a meeting this morning but will send some additional ideas later today.
Regards

Texas- Thank you for the info. I have keep my floor plan simple for the reason of cost. I have a 40 x 30 2 story rectangle and was wanting to use Hambro for the floor and roof. Would I save money if I figured the size of the house based on the size of the block?

Double J, That's an interesting question. A few years ago, I would have said yes - I put together some simple computer programs to suggest "good", "better", "best" dimensions to reduce waste and optimize speed. For example, if you can remove 3/4" from your 40 foot dimension and 3/4" from your 30 foot dimension, Nudura's 8' block will lock at 8" O.C. with no seams. If you wanted zero cutting of the 8' block you would have to make larger adjustments. Truthfully, though, it may not make much of a difference one way or the other to an experienced installer on a building with four walls. Concrete is the same, steel is the same etc. It really does matter for small offsets or wall jogs you often find on (for example) hotels where you might have to add and remove temporary bracing to 70 feet on the outside. Under these circumstances it is worth the trouble to eliminate external shoring and improve speed of construction and improve job site safety. Another reason, I would say no is I want the architect to feel free to design first. It more important that you have adequate space between floors for HVAC ductwork and etc than save a few dollars on the ICF. You also want to utilize standard studs for each floor if possible. Don't save a few dollars on the ICF and then ask your framer to cut all of his studs on interior walls.

Window elevations is another item to consider -- but again -- I would put my windows exactly where I want them before making any decisions regarding adding an inch or two or taking a way an inch etc.

You might find an installer that provides some savings if you'll pour the entire structure in one pour. He will save on pump truck and having to deploy again after the hambro installation. This might be better for him and not quite as good for you (for a number of reasons). I would avoid this if I were you and require two pours.

BTW, one of our DFW installers just installed a house that had several upstairs walls that were not over downstairs walls -- this type of scenario, although sometimes desirable is generally more expensive and requires a significant amount of additional work to accomplish than your design. Regards.

Double J, I do not sell any product so I think it is safe to ask you the reason you want to use Hambro to support the floor and roof. Do you have a local installer that will give you an exceptional quote for the Hambro, etc.? You can reply by my e-mail as shown in my signature block if you need privacy.

@ Alton
I do not have a installer, I have been looking at different systems and I like the open web truss that I can use with the Hambro. I first looked at Quad-deck and liked some aspects of that system. I just think it will be more difficult when I am running my utilities. My property has a slope to it, I am planning on using the underside of the floor to run those utilities.

@ Texas

I see your point of view on the wall measurements, and window placement. I also agree with making them have mult. pours. I want to make sure that there is very little air pockets during the pour. I will be doing the interior framing on this house and I am talking to a HVAC guy so I can make sure I have good air flow. All the other utilities will be easy to manage. My profession isn't in home construction, but I grew up building houses with my father and neither one of us know enough about ICF to DIY.

Again I want to thank everyone on giving me your advice on this project.

JJ

I am wondering how would be the best way to insulate the roof since the top chord of the Hambro systems that I have seen have the steel embedded into the concrete slab. I suppose that board insulation could be attached to the bottom chord. I have used bar joists since they were not as expensive as Hambro.

Any plans yet or still working on options?

Yes, We have the plans. we are staying with the same simple rectangle shape. we just added a detached garage. and instead of Hambro for the slab we are talking about using ispan. We can cover the span of our building and also cantilever the patio deck. The company I am using to dry in the house is talking about spraying an external ployurea coating ( or somthing like that) on the whole wall to waterproof the icf. The problem we have know is what is the best siding and what can we afford?

Posted By Double J on 25 Apr 2017 10:58 AM
The company I am using to dry in the house is talking about spraying an external ployurea coating ( or somthing like that) on the whole wall to waterproof the icf. The problem we have know is what is the best siding and what can we afford?

Waterproof the whole ICF wall? Why?

@ Ronmar - I am wondering that myself, I get it for the below grade blocks but not the ones above grade. maybe I misunderstood him, I am going to get clarity on this.

Double J, if you decide on one of the new stucco finishes, be aware that you don't want to do it in the "oven" we're getting ready to experience. It dries really fast over 90* or so.

I'm a bit north of you, and I'm looking at non-Hardie cement products, stones and half-sawn logs (maybe fake), and the new types of stucco. On our square houses, we need to have some fun with the exterior.

Double J, Did you finish your build? We are int he architecture phase for our custom home in Lakeway, TX and looking at the ICF option as an alternative to tradition stick frames construction. can you share the details of your ICF installer/builder? Can you, please, also share some more details of how much of the house was concrete and what parts were traditionally framed? Thanks! Abhi. abhishek dot bhaduri at gmail dot com

Mike Pilley Enterprises is nearby in Marble Falls and very strong.
Regards, Cameron