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spanning gable walls with beam for roof
Last Post 22 Jan 2018 11:27 PM by
Chris Johnson
. 3 Replies.
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Robert J Lee
New Member
Posts:1
21 Jan 2018 02:20 AM
Hello guys, I am building an ICF house for myself, very exciting stuff. Have a great and experienced builder doing the walls, wondering though about the roof, have to span the gable walls with a glulam beam for the roof. Any Ideas or knowledge would be much appreciated. I am thinking of making a notch on either end to fit the beam and using styrofoam bucks to close it in... Yea, Nay, Special considerations?? any advice is appreciated.
TexasICF
Advanced Member
Posts:622
21 Jan 2018 03:12 PM
Robert, Sounds like you are referring adding two beam pockets and setting a beam. Beam pockets work great and provide that the load creates less of a "moment" (primary load is bearing straight down on concrete). This is often better than attaching an embed etc. to face of foam etc. Based on my limited understanding of what you wish to accomplish ... a couple of small considerations: -- you will want outside foam to remain intact and your pocket beam will be to the inside only. -- you will likely want to wet set a treated wood (or steel embed) in the open bottom part of pocket. If you use wood you might use j-bolts. If you use steel you will want nelson studs. -- you can also just set the beam on the concrete without and embed in the pocket but I don't like that approach. (You might ask your engineer his opinion on this). -- if the pocket is not at the top of wall the height of at least one side (of pocket) will determine whether or not you can set beam easily or not. You must get the beam in ;). -- you ca anlso just plan to cut the outside foam of the pocket out one side (outside of wall). Save this foam piece. Set beam and then carefully replace the outside foam piece and foam it in. This is usually easier and better than making pockets wide or tall etc. -- depending on the width of the beam and whether or not you are mid wall or top of wall you may want to use a treated header to remain in place after pour. This won't be necessary unless you plan to pour concrete over the top of the pocket. -- dovetailed foam inserts like Nudura's endcaps work great for the sides of the pocket. Other products or even handmade endcaps will work fine as well. They will require more foam and bracing to hold them in place if they are not dovetailed. -- Regardless of endcap choice, if you are not at top of wall you will need to foam endcaps in so they do not move and will properly support your treated header and concrete load. -- after setting beam you can also completely fill the cavity with foam and cut it off clean to face of wall. -- i would avoid allowing the beam to reach the outside face of foam on either side since this is a thermal bridge. Just in case you might be near and interested my next ICF installers class is in early April in Fort Worth Texas. regards, Cameron
newbostonconst
Advanced Member
Posts:778
22 Jan 2018 02:43 PM
You can make a beam pocket many ways. Where you don't want concrete you can add foam before the pour in between the two sides of the ICF form. Then cut the foam out later.
You can come back the next morning and chisel it out while it is still soft. You can frame a cubby in the form....many many options. good luck.
"Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlins
Chris Johnson
Advanced Member
Posts:878
22 Jan 2018 11:27 PM
Cathedral ceiling? Hot roof for insulation? Why are you doing ICF gables?
Chris Johnson - Pro ICF<br>North of 49
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