What fasteners should I use installing t&g over drywall in basement,foxblocks,also contractor did not install any outlets ......24 × 60 home

Horizontal I hope. Try a few trim nails, but with the drywall they will have to be long. See how well it holds and how tight the boards are to the drywall. You could add some adhesive too. Usually we screw everything to ICFs but with paneling it would be a hassle. I nailed T&G to BuildBlock, no drywall. I hit every web, 6" oc and it holds very well.

Posted By ICFconstruction on 23 Aug 2018 11:14 AM
Horizontal I hope. Try a few trim nails, but with the drywall they will have to be long. See how well it holds and how tight the boards are to the drywall. You could add some adhesive too. Usually we screw everything to ICFs but with paneling it would be a hassle. I nailed T&G to BuildBlock, no drywall. I hit every web, 6" oc and it holds very well.

Ring shank trim nails would likely have marginally better retention than bright trim nails, but adhesive is still might be necessary.

Using half inch OSB or CDX instead of gypsum board under the t & g would provide a far superior nailing substrate.

I total thickness needs to be 3/4. That is alot of money....drywall alone is the cheap answer.

But how much holding power do you need?

If the outlets are not installed, why not remove drywall, install outlets, then install T&G directly to ICF???

T&G alone isn't thick enough to meet fire code I believe.

Drywall might be glued also.

Posted By ICFBdr on 24 Aug 2018 02:21 PM
If the outlets are not installed, why not remove drywall, install outlets, then install T&G directly to ICF???

Sounds good.

Posted By newbostonconst on 24 Aug 2018 03:12 PM
T&G alone isn't thick enough to meet fire code I believe.

Drywall might be glued also.

For easy attachment, replace drywall with 1/2" plywood then nail to that....more cost/work, but easy attachment of T&G

The heck with code, the owner should decide for themselves. I would (did) attach direct to the ICFs with nails only.

Posted By ICFconstruction on 24 Aug 2018 04:29 PM
The heck with code, the owner should decide for themselves. I would (did) attach direct to the ICFs with nails only.

If there were ever a fire I'm sure the insurance company will use that to their benefit, not yours.

The combined thickness of 1/2" OSB + t & g paneling would probably be sufficient to meet spec as a timed thermal barrier, but unless somebody has tested that stackup it may not fly with an inspector (or insurer.)

Not that it matters- the OP hasn't posted for months, and has probably already made a decision and went with it.

Right if it isn't tested it isn't a government approved nothin'. We all should be making our own choices. As far as insurance it does not matter. An insurer cannot deny a claim for negligent work by an insured, in fact that is a big part of what insurance is for. Not that this is negligent. Insurance policies are voided by deliberate acts to cause a loss, and the burden of proof is high. Stupidity is covered.

If you're worried about fire rating, you could always invest in a bucket of PinkWood's PKshield/PinkShield product.
Take your plywood, coat it, let it dry.
Won't make it fireproof, but it'll drastically increase ignition times.

most ICF systems in UK have "furring" strips built into the ICF form -every 8 or12"-metal strips you can self tap into -if you can find these then you can screw your battens to them to make services gap and fix T+g--yes drywall will be stuck on --so check tech spec for your ICF system --find one and the rest will be easy. you could use screw type dry wall fixings like for hanging big pictures --all depends on how well you think the dry wall is fixed to start with then the final way is to dry and fix battens direct to the actual concrete with long screws . Me I would go for long s/s screws into the concrete all simple DIY stuff.