ICF build, crawlspace support question
Last Post 07 Dec 2019 03:02 PM by smartwall. 5 Replies.
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rykertestUser is Offline
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05 Dec 2019 01:51 AM
I’m having an ICF built. I’m doing some of the work and hiring out some. As I start I’ve run into a decision and two guys I trust are giving me differing advice. So, I’m trying to see what would be the best choice. the exterior walls are Nudura 6” ICF, 35’ wide by 42’ long, single story in the Midwest. Concrete reinforced Perimeter footers. One guy wants to do concrete pads as the base for the piers and then mortar block up to support the floor joists. This is a surprisingly expensive option to have done and a bit outside my wheelhouse. I’m handy enough to do a lot myself, but footings, drywall and electrical I don’t mess with and bows not the time to learn. The less expensive option is to use precast concrete pads from Menards with either 6x6 or ideally 8x8 pressure treated posts and termite shields as a precaution. It will be an insulated crawlspace due to the ICF. now where I’m building there aren’t any codes, it’s out in the sticks. The soil is good soil, no flooding, no seismic activity, etc. That said, I still want to build a safe home. As you can guess the less expensive option I can do myself is the more attractive one for those reasons, but is it an acceptable way to build? thank you for your assistance.
DilettanteUser is Offline
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05 Dec 2019 04:22 AM
Where EXACTLY in the midwest.

The further north you go, the deeper you have to go with the footing to avoid heave.

I honestly wouldn't use the precast, 2-way concrete deck footers for ANYTHING under an actual HOUSE.
If you get any sort of settling and the ground sinks away or heaves under the pier, you're SCREWED.
You say the soil is good.
Unless you've had someone come out and actually check it, assume that you're going to have settling after running an entire jobsite through there for X-months.

You've got to prep the soil on the site and pour footers for the concrete walls anyhow.

How big are your floor joists? And have you figured out how many actual posts you need?

Also, what's stopping you from just doing all-concrete support pylons with a short vertical post or a metal fastener direct to the joists/beams?
You REALLY don't want wood, even treated wood, just sitting on masonry/concrete because of moisture wicking.
So you embed a steel post fastener in the top or some sort of metal tie to affix the post to the joists without allowing them to touch, complete it with flashing for a termite shield.

Simple, straightforward, relatively low-labor. You just need concrete (which you need anyhow), some holes dug, rebar and sonotubes.



rykertestUser is Offline
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05 Dec 2019 11:29 AM
Thank you for your reply, were in very Southwest Missouri. Just to clarify, I’m not talking about the small deck piers, I’m talking about these; https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/pole-barn-post-frame-materials/pole-barn-post-frame-tools-accessories/24-x-6-concrete-pad/24x6footingpad/p-1444441469835.htm The general plan was to use 8x8 posts sitting on these, with Nudura peel and stick membrane cut to cap the end touching the concrete. We’ve already had the house site for the crawlspace already dug out. Thank you.
newbostonconstUser is Offline
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05 Dec 2019 12:14 PM
I am with Dilettlante on this one. Don't want to upset you but you may be trying to do to much. Even though there my not be codes, you should get a code book and follow it. You are spending a lot of money to build and one screw-up can cost you the whole thing.

Good Luck....and ask more questions....we are willing to help even though we sometimes come across as ass holes.
"Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlins
rykertestUser is Offline
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05 Dec 2019 12:32 PM
Posted By newbostonconst on 05 Dec 2019 12:14 PM
I am with Dilettlante on this one. Don't want to upset you but you may be trying to do to much. Even though there my not be codes, you should get a code book and follow it. You are spending a lot of money to build and one screw-up can cost you the whole thing.

Good Luck....and ask more questions....we are willing to help even though we sometimes come across as ass holes.


I’m not so delicate that disagreement means I view you as an A hole. Lol. I appreciate y’all taking the time to reply to try and help. And I do agree that there are codes for a reason. For that reason, as well as fear of death, I’m hiring out electrical and what not, trusses are engineered, etc. I’m not using the lack of formal oversight as an opportunity to build a shoddy house. That said, I’ve lived in homes for years with wooden piers that never had any issues and they were 40 year old houses. I’ve also lived in stacked block pier homes that were fine as well. There is always a better way to build something, but does that mean that the way I’m proposing isn’t acceptable? It seems to me, and I’ll admit I could be incorrect here, (stop laughing) that soil that’s solid with a dozer driving all over it for two days, that has 16 concrete pads with 8x8 posts would be more than adequate enough to support the floor of a single story 1600 sq ft home. If it truly wont work, then it won’t work and I’ll need to accept that. I’m just having a hard time seeing why it wouldn’t.
smartwallUser is Offline
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07 Dec 2019 03:02 PM
I'd go with a mono pour, footing and walls poured together as well as some pad bases in the center. Watkins hangers in the 42' walls and a main carrier down the center with a glu lam to carry the floor joist. Also pour the rat slab at the same time. Save you a load of time and probably some money. If I wasn't so old I'd come down and show you how. But Fab Form has an excellent system if you can get it.
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