I am looking for an ICF installer in the Jacksonville area. Already have the blocks. Just need to sub the construct of it. Any recommendations/referrals appreciated. Thank you

Usually the ICF subcontractor selects and uses the ICF blocks that they are familiar with and can get the best on site delivered price. Usually one can contact the local ICF block supplier and get a referral from them of the subcontractors that purchase their ICF block from this local ICF block supplier. So it seems like you might have the cart before the horse...

That was my thought also , that source for a contractor is the block supplier. Funny

That was my thought also , that source for a contractor is the block supplier. Funny

That was my thought also , that source for a contractor is the block supplier. Funny

That was my thought also , that source for a contractor is the block supplier. Funny

I wonder what the learning curve for switching from Nudura to FoxBlocks or Logix, for example, would be for a decent installer. Cannot be more than reading a few pdf, watching an hour or two of youtube, and applying common sense. Then if we are talking about the installer relationship with suppliers that is a different thing.

Not a huge learning curve to transition from one manufacturer to another, but there is some...properly locating the footing dowels, assembly techniques, and compatible bracing/scaffolding system for each specific ICF manufacturer product. We have used BuildBlock, Logix, Nudura (love their HydroFoam for heated floors), and TF Systems (a vertical panel system) for various reasons over the years, but it was always our choice given the specific project or the location (overall price including the shipping).

I am sure one can find someone to complete the project if you already have ICF blocks. The real questions are how well they will do it and if the project would have cost less had a subcontractor bid both the materials and labor to begin with. The cost of the ICF block is almost insignificant compared to the concrete and labor cost associated with the block assembly, rebar placement, door/window lintel construction, bracing/scaffolding, door/window buck construction, properly placing the truss sill plate L bolts and the actual concrete pour likely using a crane pump truck. And when it is all done, you want plumb, straight and square walls that are structurally sound without voids, etc.

ICF can be accomplished by capable DIYers if they get training on the specific ICF product (manufacturers often provide this training either in person or online). But one first needs to have good basic carpentry skills like being able to use a level, string and square...capable of reading and properly following a rebar schedule and constructing required door/window lintel designs...and common sense just isn't all that common anymore. Properly pouring the ICF is likely the highest risk and if you don't have experience getting the right concrete mix, pouring it and vibrating it, this is where you may want to hire some experienced hands. As they say, you only get one chance...and than it is cast in concrete...

Thank you for chiming in.
I was not asking for those who want to attempt a DIY, I know how important is to have a good installer, for all the reasons you mentioned. There are so many details that can go wrong and will diminish the quality of the final result.
I just thought that transitioning from one brand of block to another should not be much of a trauma for someone experienced. considering most blocks are nearly identical except a few exceptions, like the vertical ones.

For my understanding after talking to suppliers, the cost of the block is about 15-20% of the actually built wall, excluding trusses work.

So far these are the ballpark numbers that have been given to me:

example for above-grade 8" walls

$5.5-$6 sf blocks with all the things they need to go on including taxes and shipping, a little more for Nudura.
$.5.5-$6 sf for concrete and rebar with $140 per cubic yard concrete
$100/200 per opening buck
$500 to 1000 per week for bracing rental
$2000 for scissor lift or similar, for one month rent
$1000 for other rentals
$ 1000 for wood
$6 to $12 sf for labor depending on zip code wall-and windows complexity. 175-200 men hours construction time per floor for about 2000sf of built walls with 12/14 windows opening or door with 5 men crew (2 experienced installers plus helpers with some construction experience)

What else should we consider?

I can't really comment on your costs as they vary so much by locality. My previous response first two paragraphs were in regards to contracting out the work. Only my last paragraph was in regards to accomplishing it as a DIY project and only because this is sometimes the only way to accomplish it given local contractor availability and associated cost.

Yes, you can rent a bracing/scaffolding system or you can purchase one and then resell when done with it. Having this is useful for more than just the walls like for truss sill and truss placement.

Not sure why you need a scissor lift...and for one month? The ICF can be assembled in a couple days at most by two or three people and the concrete pour is only a couple hours at most...all of which can be accomplished solely with the bracing/scaffolding system.

Not sure what the wood is for? Zonts and Zuckles? Wood bucks and strapping? We would pre-build PT wood bucks and have them ready to go on site when assembling the ICF block. BTW, there are construction photos on our website of our personal retirement homestead ICF buildings if interested. We used BuildBlock ICF blocks and Nudura HydroFoam hydronic radiant 4" EPS under-slab insulation for these projects. My husband and I assembled the ICF walls for each building in two days...and we are in our 60s...but we have also become a very efficient team over the years...YMMV.

Not sure what the other rentals would be? Crane pump truck for a couple hours?

Are you pouring walls and footings at same time? Smartwall is the master at that. If not, you will want to adhesive tack the first row of blocks to the footings just prior to the wall only pour.

Do you need 8" above ground walls? 6" is typically all that is needed.

You will need screws to fasten the bracing and straps to the ICF block. You will need a way to hold/cast the door/window bucks to the walls. You can use straps to hold them in place during the pour...but you need a way to keep them in place after the straps are removed. You also want to eliminate any air gap between the wall concrete and the buck interface.

And don't forget to accomplish all needed footing/wall penetrations BEFORE you pour concrete...electrical, HVAC, plumbing, etc.

Thank you for your insights and suggestion for details, and your construction photos are very helpful.

Bracing/scaffolding I would avoid buying if I can rent. They will likely be a tough sell in our area since ICF is not very popular.

I am planning a 2 story home and renting a lift for 1 month is the same as renting it for 2 weeks. I would definitively need it longer than 1 week.

I added another 1k of rental for any contingency, although some tools are better to buy and keep them.

The 1000k for wood is also contingency. I have seen some builders strapping a lot more than others and using plenty of wood that anyway can be reused later on.

In our area, we will need shallow frost-protected footings if we go for a slab or some sort of stem walls. For Smartwall did you mean Fastfoot or Foothold?

6 or 8 inches change about 3-4 grand in concrete and the 8" inches should be easier to poor less risk of voids, easier to use helix etc.. and the house looks better with thicker walls.
People may argue that we do not notice walls thickness once the building is finished but it will eventually be noticed and on some homes may add reselling value.
It is mostly perception, but for some real estate works that way, especially on markets with European and Asian buyers, they are not used to the typical 6/7 inches thick walls of the stick frame homes. In Europe most homes have 30cm to 45 cm thick walls.

Smartwall is the gentleman who responded herein previously. He would pour the footings and ICF wall at the same time. You may be able to use Google, "Green Building Talk" and a couple other search "words" to find more about how he accomplished this if interested. Or he may chime in and provide you with some guidance/recommendations too.

Having grown up in Munich Germany and having traveled all over Europe, I also very much appreciate their construction methods and their higher level of home comfort and livability. That's where I originally got hooked on ICF, masonry heaters and hydronic radiant heated floors...back in the mid 70s... My husband also spent a fair amount of time in Europe (really all over the entire world) and our 24" thick stone/brick interior thermal mass wall (used to eliminate us needing any AC) and our ceiling beam great room design were styled after his favorite English Pub:

https://www.thecravenarms.co.uk/#about

6" ICF (which unfinished is 11" thick...2.5" EPS + 6" concrete + 2.5" EPS) will become 12-13" thick once fully finished with drywall and exterior siding. There's nothing negative about going to 8" ICF or more other than the additional expense. We were able to achieve a 9.2 seismic rating with 6" ICF. 6" ICF also provided a little better thermal mass effective R-value performance than 8" ICF in our Southern Oregon diurnal temp climate. More about that can be found in the instructions for this calculator:

https://www.borstengineeringconstruction.com/ICF_Performance_Calculator.html

Good luck with your project!

Gayle

Fast foot is a excellent product. I'm going to give away one of my trade secrets. I use a piece of 3/8 " rebar on top of 2x wood depending on the depth you want. I hold this in place with big fence staples from Tractor Supply. For the footing,wall and floor pour, I sustitue Form a Drain for the footing forms. That's what happens when someone calls me a gentleman, I give away my trade secrets.

Again, Thank you to Gayle and Smartwall.