As I understand the most common way to attach the SIP to the sill plate is by using a Simpson strong tie bloted to the J bolt. A somewhat large hole is cut into the SIP panel to access this and screw it into the panel.
I just saw a different less intrusive method. It is a long truss rod that extends the full height of the panel. I attaches to the J bolt with a threaded female conector and a large flat washer and nut are screwed on the top plate. A 4 inch hole is bored into the panel to get to the threaded connector at the top of the J bolt, then the "plug is replaced. I was told that if a J bolt is placed incorrectly this system can accomodate the misalignment up to three inches where as the Simpson bracket has very little adjustment.
Is anyone familiar with this?

You may not have a choice depending on your building dept. to go with any other method than the Simpson LTP4 @ 36" O.C. Upon reviewing some of our structurals for our CA jobs, this appears to be the norm. Our engineers must provide whatever it is the building dept. is looking for and so far, they want to see the Simpson strong ties....worst case scenario would be to have your idea detailed on the structurals and see if the building dept. accepts it or not.

Actually, the most common method is simply nails into the SIP bottom plate(which can be a sill plate depending on the type of SIP being used). The aggressive method that you are describing is usually only specified for earthquake and high wind areas.

In cases where there is a SIP bottom plate placed on a sill plate, I recommend that the anchor bolts penetrate through and are fastened(bolted) to the top of the SIP bottom plate.

Your recommendation conflicts with itself unless you are in an area where the stronger tie is necessary. Nailing the bottom SIP plate to a sill plate is normally sufficient and if your j bolt extends through into the SIP, it will make the panel harder to install as the bolt will prevent the panel from sliding up to the next panel. It will also make an unnecessary penetration into the foam. Rather it is best method to set your jbolts so that the top will not extend past the bottom plate.

My recommendation stands, as stated.

Because you want the customer to spend more money? or waste more time? You haven't supplied a fact as to why your "recommendation" has any merit. Moreover you have not addressed a valid criticism of your recommendation that it will result in no benefit and will make the product hareder to install. Time is money. Are people just supposed to believe you because you have more posts?

HaHaHa, Money is your hangup, not mine.


'Valid'? From whose standpoint?

It's pretty simple: It's a stronger connection. And, it may eliminate the cost of attaching hurricane straps. That's all.


There's that 'Money' thing again.


No, but they could understand that I don't just spew BS, and I do have a clue.


The detail(used in a slightly different situation).



Have a Nice Day!

JC,

Your initial post concluded that the most common method for attachment is a nailed connection. And the most common connection would not include the need for hurricane upgrades. Thus your recommendation is misleading without the need for said upgrade. Likewise one would not nail the bottom plate in an effort to save time and expense when hurricanes are an issue.

And as for money, it is an assumption unless someone specifies that it is not a concern. And wouldn't we like to have those customers.

Finally the "most common" method should include a statement about issues in installation. And that would include the fact that SIPs are not easy to move. And while traveling SIP experts might be able to install panels effortlessly with the j bolt exposed, I know that the local factory here specifically states not to expse the j bolt to avoid time delays.

M & M's,

A recommendation is just that. If you(or anyone else) doesn't like it. Fine. Don't use it. No big deal.

As far as money goes, ask around and see how many people would want their new house, built as cheap as possible. You might be surprised at their answer.

If your rants are an effort to 'drive' people to the company that you represent. You are failing.

You are a liability.

Sorry, I forgot to mention I am in an earthquake area (central Calif.), it's not my fault ;) But any way I see EZ-build picked up on this right away while the rest of you decided to duke it out. Just stop it boys, this shows a lack of professionalism and would tend to lead potential customers to other vendors. Do you cheese with that whine?

Traderjack,

I agree with you last post. My point was that JC made a comment about the most "common" installation procedure which conflicts with "best" installation method. And while the risk is always to take hits from JC my point is a beacon to those reviewing the posts to watch for a real issue in installation. I have experienced the issue myself, and I have also been warned by factory reps of the issue. SIPs don't move well at all. And if an inexperienced crew or builder has issues, then it will be harder to justify a second home down the road. And while I may not get a sale out of the debate, I am willing to address the issue in the hope that more SIPs are utilized down the road by those that have discovered the issue and have decided for themselves. And if SIPs aren't the answer, that is ok too. For me, I plan to make sure the j bolts don't extend past the sill plate. Now if we could just solve the issue with foundation people sticking the j bolts where my doors are, then we would really have a solution.

I got a kick out of this post, Traderjack.  They probably didn't pick up on the pun either...it's not my "fault".  :-)  Good one.
At least Central Calif. is not as stringent as So. Cal.  You will find it easier to get a permit for SIPs where you are.  Check out the winery going up in Paso Robles with SIPs...it's pretty cool.

It looks like most people do not quite understand the difference between the anchor bolts (“J” bolts) and the “hold downs”. Although Traderjack asked about connecting the SIP to the sill plate, his post actually discussed the hold downs. Without going into too much theoretical detail, the anchor bolts are evenly spaced along the entire sill plate of the shear wall and prevent the structure from sliding due to lateral loads. The hold downs are located at the end of shear walls and prevent the structure from tipping over. When we calculate the required hold down force, we do not include any vertical resistance from the anchor bolts (even though we all know they help). This is left over from the stick framing days because (2) 10d nails in the end of a stud will not keep it attached to the sill plate when pulled upward. Now to the practical issues:

Anchor Bolts – These should be spaced as per the structural design. Typically, they are spaced closer than stick construction because SIP walls can transfer more shear to the sill plate than stick walls. The anchor bolts need to pass completely through the treated sill plate (2x in most areas, 3x in parts of California). If you are using ¾” treated CDX and a 2x sill plate, it must pass completely through both. If you are using a second 2x as the SIP sill plate you can counter sink them as suggested but I have never had problems if you don’t. If you countersink, you should also use a minimum of (2) 12d nails @ 8” oc from the sill plate to the treated plate. You attach the SIP to the sill plate using nails horizontally through the skin into the sill plate per the manufacturer and engineer.

Hold Downs – Some SIP manufacturers have a detail in which a PHD type hold down is used. This type of hold downs require that they be attached to a vertical member. They are big and stick out, so in stick framing they are located on the inside of the last vertical member. If these are used on a SIP wall, a large piece of wall needs to be removed as Traderjack said. Not only is this a pain in the rear, it also reduces the shear capacity of the wall and the over connection of the wall to the hold down. I do not specified these on any of my plans and use them only for retrofit if no other solution can be found. What I specify is a STHD strap hold down that is nailed to the exterior of the shear wall. I have them placed in the foundation so they run up the end of the overlapping wall, nailing them into a 4x end buck. They are thin and can be easily covered with stucco. If you want, you can recess the 4x end buck ¼” to make them flush. They are approved for almost anywhere (except the City of Los Angeles).

Lets just keep this simple boys. Make the SIP wall longer by the depth of the floor system (if applicable) with a double 2x anchored (double route required) to treated 2x plate next size up atop the foundation wall. The double 2x would be more than sufficient when stapled every 6" oc to both plates. Set the floor system inside the panel (3.5" bearing required) and attach the joists from the outside with panel screws. We use this method on the beach for 140mph wind load or use JC's method, it works also. Good luck

I think there is talk here about a number of different issues. Perhaps separate posts are in order. It looks like we are talking about connections in wind vs. not. And connections on slab vs. not??