I have seen many diagrams for wiring SIPS placed on a first floor joist system, and drilling the bottom plate.  However, how do you complete the wiring for a slab on grade home with no attic space (i.e., only vaulted ceilings)?  Any tricks or documents that anyone can point me to?

Thank you.

I'm doing the same thing.  I'll be running conduit under the slab for each room and wiring chases behind the baseboard.  In the kitchen it will be easier to run wires behind the cabinets.  Be sure to have an accurate wiring diagram "as built" for future reference.

dp

You can use the method that dp described(conduits under slab), or you can wire from above(along the top plate). You could also have your conduits(under the slab) terminate below the location of the sill plate, and up into the vertical chases of the panels.

Please see Wiring your panels in the Learning Center.

SIPs on slabs is one of the reasons I use stick framing for the roof. Romex is about as expensive as gold according to my electrician. You can use cathedral trusses or I joists to create a cathedral that has space for mechanicals. I have also considered using different sized SIPs for creating a false ceiling along the center of the home. So if you have a 10" panel and a 4" panel, aligned on top, you end up with a 6" panel. If it is just off center, you could run put your electrical boxes on the spline and span a 2' smaller SIP with your sheetrock.

I wouldn't want extra penetrations here in the slab do to termites. You might consider some mechanical chases in the interior that could give you some elevations for doing some decrative finishing.

You might also consider a SIP floor that gives you a small crawl space. Someone did some numbers and the price was comparable to slab.

I can't believe any reputable SIPs builder would mix SIP walls with roof trusses? What is the point of using a wall twice as strong as frame and then put a frame roof on top?
You will be dropping some areas anyway like halls / closets these drops can be used for wiring and ductwork distribution. The simplest soulution is to build out inaccesable areas for wiring is with 1 x 2" furring strips to create a wire chase,

Sorry I don't believe in doing anything half way

Chris,

A reputable builder builds for a number of reasons. One is to make their clients happy which may mean doing things that are for comfort and not economic sense. Another is for resale value and ROI. I use trusses because the cost of a SIP upgrade is more then I could EVER get in energy recovery following the premise that energy and interest rates follow similar increases. The simple fact is that SIP roofs are an UPGRADE. In a spec home it is easier to justify granite counter tops then SIP insulation. My other post on the truss issue suggests that based on my own home in the area, there is no way I could save more then about $12 per month in energy as I am only using about $25 now with SIP walls and tech shield. Thus I can never realize the cost of a 3k or more upgrade based on the savings I hope to make. And every area that is "dropped" simply adds more to the upgrade cost. Time and materials are money after all. And I am not too worried about strength. None of the sticks in the area have dropped and mine is stronger then the sticks.

So if you don't believe in doing anything half way, are you using SIPs for the dog house? floors? interior walls? counter tops? Now if you wouldn't mind coming here and selling the bank on the cost as well as marketing to the customer, I will be happy to go with your plan. But then you would probably want money for your time, too.

mmacgowa

Thanks for your insightful response, actually I have done dog houses, floors and interior sip shear walls, but counter tops? Probably not but they would make a great work bench.
I guess some of are just more passionate about what we do!

We had an architect that wanted to leave the OSB exposed. Now that is passion.

Met with a builder last week that tried to get the suppliers for an Iraq army base to use SIPs. They apparently have some very big tents with some very big AC units blowing very large amounts of air in them to reduce the sweltering 125 degree heat. But since they supply and maintain the tents, they weren't very interested in efficient design.

For me, I would like to justify SIPs everywhere I can, but I can't justify them where it doesn't make economic sense. But I am still trying to find ways to make the justification such as an adobe style roof. But when I suggested a non local style, the bank got nervous. ugh. And for my next project, I would like to use window and door coutouts for a wine cellar. Now that would be cool.

I have to say, I used to have a link to this site on my website. I quickly removed this link after reading all the bickering that happens on this site. I no longer reccomend this site to my customers and hope the never find it. I also do not read the post very often........so go ahead and flame me, I dont care. Its just a fact that this type of banter is unproductive and does not adavnce the SIP industry. By the way, this post is directed at no one in peticular, I have read others and wanted to post this same reply, but didnt find the time, please copy and paste as necessary for future bickering. Thanks

Jamie,

Thanks. I am relatively new to the Green Building Talk site, so I have not read a lot of the posts, but I have already seen what you refer to as "flame throwing". It will be nice if some of the parties take what you said to heart. I feel this site is based on an excellent concept that deserves a more diplomatic and less cut-throat approach than some have presented. If we can use it for your stated purpose, we will all benefit.

Thanks again,
Ronald Sauve
www.greendesignbuild.net