I would appreciate the latest method of securing/hanging upper kitchen cabinets with SIPS construction. The rear of the 3/4" birch cabinets will have 3/4" "nailers" at the top and bottom and 1/4" birch in the field.  Hollow wall anchors aren't an option because of the nailers but perhaps heavy duty toggle bolts are the answer?  At any rate, thanks in advance folks.

C.G.

I’m not sure what they are called, but they look like the below picture.  Make sure the body goes all the way thru the drywall and OSB.  They worked great on my cabinets.

 

I’m not sure what they are called, but they look like the below picture.  Make sure the body goes all the way thru the drywall and OSB.  They worked great on my cabinets.

 

 

Steve

 

 

Steve

Trigem1,

That is a hollow wall anchor.  Did you use them through a 3/4" nailer, 1/2" sheetrock and 1/2" OSB?

C.G. 

I temporarily blocked the upper cabinets from the lower cabinet top, then drilled 1/8 inch holes thru the back of the upper cabinets, took the upper's down, installed the hollow wall anchors and then put up the upper cabinets, put washers under the heads of the screws and screwed them in. I used about 6 per cabinet.

Steve

[email protected]
www.GrandCountySIPs.com

Hello CG. Assuming you don’t have your (EPS?) panels made yet, why couldn’t your panel manufacturer install (glue & power staple) a 1 x 6 inside the interior skin at the right height and route the foam as the panels are being made? The polyurethane panel manufacturer we use molds in cabinet 1x’s for all our jobs. They also bury horizontal 2 x 10’s for us when we balloon frame. Works great.

Trigem1,

What was the thickness of your cabinet backs?
 

Lockard,

Unfortunetly,  our panels were raw from the manufacture.  it was a time crunch issue...we started building in OCT and had to really move!  Frankly, we didn't think that far ahead, regarding this issue.  Nonetheless, your idea is a darn good one.  Sure, we'd lose abit of R-value in those particular panels but the benefits far out weigh the loss!


I had time to brain storm this issue with my brother-in-law (he performed as our GC on the house build) and decided that toggle bolts wouldn't work, due to the simple fact that they'd be unable to "deploy" because of the foam.  Researched some cabinetry magazines and seen a set of metal flanges that would perform akin to a "french cleat".  One is attached to the wall (via hollow wall anchors) and the other would attach to the rear of the 3/4" cabinet nailer via nut, bolt & washer.  May have to countersink the nut, so as not to have project into the cabinet storage space...have to think more on that idea.

At any rate, I appreciate the suggestions folks.  I look forward to seeing more of them.

C.G.

Has anyone used this method :?

LINK

I'm at that stage right now and I told the drywaller that I am going to put 1/2" plywood on the whole wall where the cabinets will go from the top of the cabinets to the floor. I am going to PL the heck out of it. My ceilings are at 9' so the drywaller will put a strip of drywall from the ceiling to just below the upper cabinet, shy of about 7' to ceiling. The fridge is on that wall so it will get drywall behind it. the plywood will also be a backer for the tile. I just hope that a plywood seam does not line up with a tile seam (a bit of planning ahead). This will give me about an inch to screw into and I'll just use more screws when the cabinets go up. My inspector wants vapor barrier behind the drywall and the kitchen plywood but the kitchen plywood will not be able to get any (oh well). My drywaller says he is nervous to put drywall over vapor barriered sips because he said if moisture get in there I have major mold and rotting problems. This is my drywallers 5th sip house, he said the other 4 in another county (5 miles away) were not required by their code to have vapor barrier. Another odd thing a friend who build a 2 story walkout complete ICF house was required to put vapor barrier on his walls in the county to the south. Odd. I'm in Alberta, where vapor barrier goes on the inside. Any improvements I can do on my plywood plan? Because of the walls location I could even go 3/4"????

Unless there is an excessive amt of weight (the cabinets and/or contents) there isn't a problem fastening cabinets through drywall to OSB. If your concerned with the screws stripping though the OSB, put one or two more. Most/all the weight is supported by the shear strength of the screw. The cabinet would probably come apart before the screw in the panels let go.