The literature says that it's critical to seal the roof joints including the area over the ridge beam and any other beams. 

How do you seal that part of the joints that sit on the beams?
How do you QC that sealing task?

Very respectfully,
Larry

Larry;

our steel panels are sealed as shown on attached

Original specs called for a wedge but we found that if foundation was too far out of square for us to compensate, it could saw tooth roof panel and the wedge was not an effective seal. So we started to spray in foam at ridge beam

Chris,

Thank you for the clear graphic -- it shows my concern:  How do you tape or mastic the joint above the beam and bearing plate where you cannot reach? 

Very respectfully,
Larry

Larry;

That foam will flow into cracks and crevices & seals pretty good,  the interlock at each joint is a friction fit joint.
Our houses always test well with the blower door test, I have typically found that most infiltration is at window interlocks, door weatherstripping and back flow thru exhaust fans, even though they have back-flow dampers they are not air tight.

All the manufacturers and distributors of SIP products sell what is called "SIP Tape" - It comes in 6 inch, 12 inch, and 18 inch wide rolls.  It is typical to use the 12 inch wide rolls ove the top of the ridge beam prior to setting your panels.  I recommend using the 18 inch on pitches 7:12 and steeper. We lightly staple the roll over the top of the beam and once the panels are set, we peel off the sticky back protection and adhere the tape to the underside of the panels.  Lightly run your kife along the outside edges of the beam. It will make it easier to peel off once the panels are set. You don't need to do any sealing over tops of beams where there is no panel joint. If a joint is going to fall over a beam, drape a 12 inch wide strip over the top of the beam the same way you did the ridge beam. For roof panels that run parallel to the ridge, where ever a panel crosses a beam take a short length (12 to 16 inches in length) and slip it under the lead edge of the panel prior to setting the next panel up. You can also use a sticky window paper or for the maximum seal use a bitchuthene sealant.

The Panel Guy

Not true,  Steel SIP mfg.s normally do not require any taping

Panel Guy,

Thanks for the clear description.  That makes sense, and it's close to what I'd envisioned.  But -- never having done it -- I couldn't believe that you could actually get the release layer off after the panel was set. 

Very respectfully,
Larry