Hey, guys. Just had an unforseen problem. The ONE place in my house where we ran wire through the wall chase, right beside the main entry with a four gange box, the inspector said that we had to sleave the wires in the chase since it did not meet the definition of cde approved raceway. Thank god everything else is in the floor or interior walls. Any experience with this? Lucky for us its a short strait drop down into the floor cavity so we can install flexible sleeve.javascript:amaf_insertHTML('%3Cimg%20src=/DesktopModules/ActiveForums/viewer.aspx?portalid=0&moduleid=369&attachid=2214%20border=0%20/%3E');amaf_toggleInline(2214,7093,0);

I would contact the manufacturer of the SIP system you are using. They should have all the documentation showing compliance with the applicable code.

Posted By Bigrig on 26 May 2010 03:59 PM
I would contact the manufacturer of the SIP system you are using. They should have all the documentation showing compliance with the applicable code.

if it doesn't meet the criteria for a raceway the panel mfg. can't do anything for you, there is never a question with furring

However with furring you need to either run your cabling in conduit or provide a means of nail protection to comply with code requirements for protection of the conductors. Unless you furr the wall out to almost the full depth of a 2x4 wall (to provide the 1.25" setback). At that point why not build a 2x6 or 2x8 wall with spray-foam and batt insulation. SIP panels are designed with chases for a reason. The fact that ONE inspector or agency does not accept them does not make it a requirement that ALL buildings be constructed that way. Am I correct in understanding the metal SIP system you utilize does not have chases? It would be just as easy to advise people to use PUR SIP panels, where the wiring paths can be created using conduits.

It would be educational for anyone who has run into code or inspector issues to post them. Perhaps a "sticky" topic can be created?

Posted By Bigrig on 27 May 2010 10:19 AM
However with furring you need to either run your cabling in conduit or provide a means of nail protection to comply with code requirements for protection of the conductors. Unless you furr the wall out to almost the full depth of a 2x4 wall (to provide the 1.25" setback). At that point why not build a 2x6 or 2x8 wall with spray-foam and batt insulation. SIP panels are designed with chases for a reason. The fact that ONE inspector or agency does not accept them does not make it a requirement that ALL buildings be constructed that way. Am I correct in understanding the metal SIP system you utilize does not have chases? It would be just as easy to advise people to use PUR SIP panels, where the wiring paths can be created using conduits.

It would be educational for anyone who has run into code or inspector issues to post them. Perhaps a "sticky" topic can be created?

You are absolutely incorrect! the 1-1/4"depth  rule does not apply to furring as the romex wiring is along side (1 -1/4" stand-off) -the fastening points not behind them. It is illegal to run romex thru conduit, it simply will not pull thru without catching on the plastic cover
1000's of  masonry homes in Florida is furred out with 1x2 on block and used as a legal raceway

SIPs can be furred out with as minimum as 3/4" although we prefer 1-1/2" steel hi hat

we have done both residential and commercial SIPs by furring out and using romex wiring, no conduit

Chris, great pic of how you do your electric routing.

Electric code enforcement is real dependent on "where and who."   What all do here in Warren County would get you tossed out of Westchester County.

One thing about putting wires so close to the back of drywall is the possibility of a homeowner fastening into live romex... or causing a fire at some later date.

I have never used SIPs... seems they might be done well with a factory method as stated above and or like how we wire log homes which is to have the wall builders create proper set back channels and drillings for the electicians to use.. working closely together.

I should have clarified that when I mentioned "cabling" I was not specifically talking about NM-B (romex). However romex CAN be run in conduit (specifically mentioned in 2008 NEC section 334.15 (B) "Protection from Physical Damage" where it calls out RMC, IMC, EMT, Schedule 80 and "other approved means"). It is not easy, and requires care in installation. And yes, if separated from the furring strip romex does not need protection. How were you able to wire an entire building with cabling running in only one direction? I assume you ran horizontally where required and provided some form of approved "nail protection" (plates) as I mentioned earlier. Not that I am saying that furring out the walls is a bad thing, as it can also provide other benefits including sound isolation and providing a means to add additional wiring in the future.

Edit: Did not realize you had posted a picture as most picture-sharing sites are blocked here. I never would have considered stopping the furring strips short like that, an interesting method of wiring. And as most of the cabling will be behing the baseboard area it is less likely to have the homeowner drive a nail into it.

If horizontal romex runs are within 1-1/4" then they need protected, which is reason for wide space on bottom of furring and not needing any protection

Yes, nice pic Chris, I would encourage you to post more! Is the strip at the bottom which runs horizontally the same type as the vertical ones?

The furring and wiring seems like a no-brainer to me, but everyone has a hard time accepting it. Not sure why. Imagine a 2x4 stud wall and an electrician comes along with a right angle drill and makes a hole in the center of the 2x4 to run Romex through. The Romex is the same distance away from the back of the sheetrock as it would be if it were flat against a SIP panel with a 1 and 1/2 inch hat channel furring strip in place. There is no greater risk of the homeowner puncturing the wiring when hanging a picture.

Of course the ubiquitous misunderstanding of the system makes me worry that my electrical inspector will also not "get it."

My sips are 6 inch and the chase is maybe 1 1/2 inch which means at least two inchs from the outside of the osb, even without any finish. Why this a problem for my inspector i dont know. The same inspector is letting me run wire on the osb behind the cabinets and mount the outlet boxes on top of my back splash. Seems inconsistent but there we are.

Brawler;

I think the inspector is consistent, when running wire behind the cabinets it is exposed for his inspection before you cover it up. He cannot see to inspect once you pull thru a chase, I have built several OSB SIP homes and you are always at the mercy of an inspector depending how much lattitude they will give you in gray areas of the code, it would be good if there were NEC regs specific to SIPS maybe SIPA can lobby for something like that so that it is a little more clear cut.

we made our chases using a red hot 3/4" ball bearing. We had a ranch type home,so we found it easy to go from the attic down to boxes. First we cut and placed the box,next we drill a 1" hole in the top plate.We placed a bent piece of tin in the box to catch the ballbearing.When done fishimg wires seal cavity with foam.

Posted By kielarsp on 02 Jun 2010 07:47 AM
we made our chases using a red hot 3/4" ball bearing. We had a ranch type home,so we found it easy to go from the attic down to boxes. First we cut and placed the box,next we drill a 1" hole in the top plate.We placed a bent piece of tin in the box to catch the ballbearing.When done fishimg wires seal cavity with foam.

no sips on roof?