Thanks for the reply, can I use fiberglass insulation wrap for the hose? it should work the same right? I found out the t-stat temp was 2 degree higher than the actual room temp so I offset 2 degree and now it seems to have correct temp with the room and the t-stat after I used the thermometer to check the temp.

Fiberglass? Moisture and mold may be potential problems. Did a quick search. It looks like Home Depot carries Armacell pipe insulation, at least on their web site.

Home Depot stocks it in MA and FL, I've bought it in both states. Runs about a buck a foot

My experience this year was that the 1/2" thick stuff as available at Home Depot would sweat. Had to replace the pipes that get cold with 1" thick material to dry things up. It's abt $3.00/ ' in 1" pipe size. Available at Fergerson's here in the south. They have fitting covers, glue, etc.

Dick

1/2" is about all you'll get at big box stores, so if you need the extra R value to suppress sweating then look elsewhere

Grainger is another national source, and local HVAC part houses MIGHT sell to a non-contractor

Grainger has sold to me and recorded the sale as a "Cash" customer (even though I charged the purchase).

Lots of online sources. Shipping for odd lots will run the price up. Sticks are 5 ft long. Fittings, tape, glue, easy to source online.

Cut a roll of 'Saran' wrap into rolls of 2" "tape" w/ a hacksaw to make a neat vapor barrier under the fittings. Leave an air gap and you'll get a drip.

Finally I insulated those hose and its alot better. I do have a few question to ask. 1. I notice the air flow wasn't that great, so I adjusted the speed of the fan and heat to speed 3 on the dip switch, is that going to use more electric and provide better airflow and heat faster? 2. Today I went to the basement to check out the unit and I notice the coax for the water out is pretty much freeze or have ice around it but I can tell the hose is not frozen though, is it normal and what can I do to prevent it? 3. Should the aux heat always have a faster speed than the stage 1 and 2? The hot water generator works great, its been generating hot water since I turned on the heat and he water heater doesn't even turn on when my wife takes a shower, I have my water heater set at 106F, today when I check the hose where I found the ice, I notice the hot water pipe from the unit was cold even when the unit is running for a while, is something wrong because I changed the heating and fan speed?

DSH only adds 5 or degrees to water temp, so if it is working off a cold tank of water its outlet won't feel warm.

Ice on leaving water line isn't necessarily bad if the system was designed for such temperatures

I'm not a pro. I have a Tranquility 27, 3 ton. Last winter I had my ECM blower on tap 2. It is on tap 3 this winter, because I opened the air registers in my unfinished basement and I am heating it. I can use the extra air flow. Mostly based on info from my owners manual:

1-Tranquility 27 is shipped with ECM set on tap 2. However, its ARI/ISO ratings are based on ECM blower tap 3. Therefore, one may correctly assume ECM tap 3 is more efficient, given adequate duct capacity for the higher air flow. Your air temp will be lower, but you will get more heat delivered per unit of time. The net result is likely more heat delivered to your house from the ground. I don't know if the additional heat transfer from the ground will effectively lower your EWT later in winter.

2-Engineer answered. I had frost on the brass pipe of leaving water last year. It's still wet this year and my EWT is 41˚. In cold climates, it is not unusual for LWT to drop to 20's. The fluid is normally freeze protected, even though pure water on the outside of the pipe freezes.

3-Tranquility 27 (3 ton) aux / emergency always runs at a higher CFM compared to stage one or stage two. At tap 3, it's 1350 CFM for aux / emergency vs 1250 CFM for stage two, and 1000 CFM for stage 1.

4-Engineer answered. I don't think the ECM tap setting directly effects the desuperheater output. My DSH generates plenty of hot water in winter, but DSH out pipe feels cold to the touch, during and after hot water use. Engineer ... Could a higher CFM air flow lower the compressor discharge temp and in turn result in reduced hot water output?


Regards,

Masoud

Hmm - good question. ..yes, I think you'd lose just a bit of DSH capacity. Higher CFM will slightly lower condensing pressure and temperature, resulting in slightly cooler liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator. Presumably the TXV will maintain the same superheat, so the refrigerant gas would both enter and leave the compressor at slightly lower temps, in turn resulting in slightly less DSH recovery.

Now that I think of it, WF publishes expected operating conditions for every 10 degrees of EWT, for both heating and cooling modes, and 3 different water flow rates and two different airflow rates in their spec guide. CM does so as well. Neither doc is convenient to hand on the PC I'm presently working from, so I'll leave it to you to Google them up. My recollection is that DSH heat transfer drops by 100 btuh or so upon a CFM increase of 100-150.