Posted By tinoue on 30 Jan 2012 07:07 AM
Posted By docjenser on 30 Jan 2012 04:00 AM
So there was a thermostat/zone issue. Loop temps in the upper 20s are not making a geosystem fail. Stay away from the installer who suggested that all the loop heat is gone and you should shut it off for a couple weeks. He must have a complete lack of understanding of geo systems.
Most of our loops run in the low 30s by now, some fresh ones in the upper 20s. Totally OK. Let them run!
Watch your system in the next days and let us know how things are going with the fixed wiring.
I'm surprised by the repeated assertion that the installer who suggested a ground loop recovery period is incompetent. In fact, the advice it totally sound.
The only thing that matters to the performance/output of the GSHP is the temperature of the loop fluid that is delivered to the heat exchanger. These systems have their rated output typically assuming a temperature in the high 40's. If the loop field is delivering temperatures in the mid 20's to the system, the system will be delivering about 25% less heat to the house, shifting the balance point of the house/GSHP system to a higher temperature. But, since it's still cold out, the heating demands remain high and the system will run longer and longer, further depressing the loop field temperature and the system output.
This cycle continues until the balance is struck between the amount of energy the loop is extracting from the ground matches the far-field ground energy transfer rate - that is, the ground can keep up with the heat demands. It's all physics and rates of energy transfer. If the ground loop area is too small, the ground cannot supply energy at the rate of extraction. Same thing if the loop isn't thermally connected to the ground or the thermal conductivity of the surrounding ground isn't sufficient.
Turning the system off for a while is *GOOD ADVICE*, especially if the ground around the loop has frozen, which it has in this case since the incoming water temperatures are below freezing. It might take a week or two for the ground to thaw out and the ice to melt and bring the entering water back into the mid 30's. This will allow the system to deliver about 20% more heat to the house, which is substantial. Telling the OP that it's fine to run a GS heat pump and keep reducing the ground temperature to this extent shows a lack of understanding of the physics. If you're going to let your ground temp drop that low, you may as well just get an air source heat pump. Commercial scale GSHP systems are meticulously simulated/designed to maintain a EWT in a range that keeps them operating at high efficiency and with sufficient capacity for years. This includes minimum(winter) and maximum (summer) allowed ground/EWT temperatures. This often is a fairly narrow range, certainly not allowing EWT's below freezing.
I did run the numbers with Geodesigner, and a loopfield designed for a 4 ton, 58 KBTU/H heatloss in Western NY climate will cost you $1085 at 30F min EWT. If you shorten the loop and change the EWT down to 25 F min, you will spend $1165, that is $80 more a year. However, to run the supplement heat by itself for a week will cost you $210 fro that week alone. Makes no sense to me.
You also seem to think that you get the temp up to 35F within a week or two. That is true we, see that when we get warmer periods at the end of the heating season, but as soon as you turn on the heatpump again, it is within a day or 2 back to 30F, since the surrounding ground is still too cold.
Bill, you are correct that each loopfield finds its balance point, but that is at a certain temperature. We shoot for 30F in our heating dominated climate. Here is an example for a perfectly designed system. The graph on the bottom shows that it reaches its 30F balance point about this time of the year, and then stays at 30F until 3 months from now when you pull less heat out and the loop recovers.
http://welserver.com/WEL0448/
Similar things here:
http://welserver.com/WEL0267/
We need to keep in mind that if the loop temp decreases further (if it is short looped for example), the loop pull more heat out of the ground since it has a larger temp differential to the surrounding ground. It also will find it's balance point, just at a lower temp.
So you tell me that I don't understand the physics since it don't think it makes any sense to use supplement resistant to give the loop a rest? Well, the simulation software, which is based on those physics and which is relatively precise by now, tells me that it does not make any sense. Nor does the actual monitoring of system performances and loop temps tell me that it does not make any sense. While I am a fan to oversize our loopfields slightly for the purpose of quicker, more standardized installations (to cover different ground types and also to adjust for the lack of full loop performance in the first and second year), I don't think it is detrimental for a loop to drop down in the mid 20s. Newer heat pumps are designed for an extended range of operation, and reducing the loop size, especially in vertical loopfields, can significantly reducing upfront costs. There are safety margins there, and you can touch those margins if you know exactly how your loops perform.