Steps before adding Geothermal - Continued...
Last Post 02 Aug 2012 11:03 PM by engineer. 27 Replies.
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jonrUser is Offline
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01 Aug 2012 03:43 PM
Any quote that doesn't say "x btu of geothermal heating" and "y btu of electric heating" is suspect. Loop specs should also be detailed in any quote that isn't going to guarantee efficiency (COP).
sbeausolUser is Offline
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01 Aug 2012 03:46 PM
They did not do a manual J, they simply estimated, which I've heard is common, and from the sounds of it would cost me $10k. The sales guy indicated that 4-ton would be better in case I ever decided to finish the basement (another 2000 sqft - although I would only ever finish half of it). They will do 'final load' calculations as part of the $800 in permitting fees. I've gone through the MA saves energy assessment for which they will provide extra insulation in my attic and sealing for about $750 which I plan to do. I've been planning on getting my own energy audit, but I haven't gotten around to it.

I have another company coming in next week to quote me out so we will see.

It's a bit frustrating that it is so challenging to pursue the most environmentally friendly HVAC solution....
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01 Aug 2012 05:43 PM
Posted By sbeausol on 01 Aug 2012 03:46 PM
They did not do a manual J, they simply estimated, which I've heard is common, and from the sounds of it would cost me $10k. The sales guy indicated that 4-ton would be better in case I ever decided to finish the basement (another 2000 sqft - although I would only ever finish half of it). They will do 'final load' calculations as part of the $800 in permitting fees. I've gone through the MA saves energy assessment for which they will provide extra insulation in my attic and sealing for about $750 which I plan to do. I've been planning on getting my own energy audit, but I haven't gotten around to it.

I have another company coming in next week to quote me out so we will see.

It's a bit frustrating that it is so challenging to pursue the most environmentally friendly HVAC solution....

I wonder what "simply estimated" really means?

To me it means "wild ass guess, to the high side just to be sure they don't call me shivering and irate at 5AM on the coldest day of the year".  Crusty old schoolers will eyeball a place and if the windows are decent and its' not too drafty and use a crude rule of thumb along the lines of "25BTU a foot, times a couple thousand feet, yer talking 50K, so 48K will probably be enough", but that rule of thumb reliably oversizes, often by more than 50%. So if your true heat load is 32K (under 3 tons), that rule of thumb puts you in the 48K range.  48,000BTU/2100 comes to about 23 BTU/foot, so that feels like the very common but WRONG rule of thumb used. As a rule real heat loads are lower than that- it doesn't cost the installer more to oversize it,by 50% but it costs YOU plenty. If it were a gas furnace the cost difference for 50% oversizing would be a few hundred at most, but with GSHP at these rates it's more than ten grand. Any geo pro worth paying would calculate it more closely- these guys seem to be fishing for suckers. Without a room by room heat load calc the odds that they'd get the temperature balance & ducting right is pretty limited too.

It shouldn't cost more than a few hundred to do an independent room by room heat load calc- far less than the cost of an "extra" ton of geo.

The additional heat load of 2000' of heating an insulated sub-grade basement won't be anything like another ton either, not even close, unless the first floor is ultra-tight and well insulated that the basement stays below 50F all winter (unlikely).  Insulating the basement walls to R12 with 2" of closed cell foam would run about $3.5-$4K, and putting a 2x4 wall with batts on the interior side of the spray  to bring it up to the R20 range still won't be anything like the $11.5K they're asking per ton.  Simply insulating & sealing the basement would raise even the un-heated basement temps into the 60s, lowering the whole house heat load by more than half a ton, so it's worth doing under any circumstances or future plans. At that point heating  the basement to 68F up from 62F or 65F adds only a small fraction of a ton to the load.

With modest improvements to the building you're probably looking at something on the order of 2.5-3 tons of heating load, which would make a 4 ton system truly outlandish. With my mostly-conditioned (~65-67F in winter) basement I'm at about 3600' of conditioned space, and have a measured +5F heat load of less than 3 tons. With planned improvements it should be closer to 2.5 tons after correcting known deficiencies.  I suspect fixing the thermal shortcomings of your ranch house will prove both easier & cheaper than my 1-1/2 story bungalow. (cood b rong , offen am.)

It's not always clear that geo is the most environmentally friendly HVAC solution- it really depends on the local grid sources and your actual (as opposed to advertized) real seasonal COP.  Sometimes condensing gas is a more environmentally benign way to go, but with the current MA grid sources it's something of a wash.  Lowering the load with building envelope improvements is usually the most environmentally friendly HVAC upgrade, up to a point. In retrofits peeling off a full ton from say 32K to 20K might be prohibitively expensive, but that's not always the case in new construction. At 11.5K per ton you would have a pretty good budget for load reduction though, and a ton of load reduction has no operating cost- only increased comfort.

It'll be curious to see how the other proposals compare, but don't be surprised if somebody proposes a 2.5 ton system and another proposes 5 tons. Just make them rationalize how they got to those numbers, and keep a close eye on fudge-factors like understated R values and outside design temps 10F or more below the ACCA Manual-J numbers (note Gloucesters' heating outside design temp is +5F, so Essex won't be more than a degree either way from that.) Those contractors who offer to do a real heat loss calc up front (even if it's for a fee) move to the head of the list.

engineerUser is Offline
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01 Aug 2012 11:50 PM
What Dana said.
Curt Kinder <br><br>

The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
jonrUser is Offline
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02 Aug 2012 07:53 AM
I can see over-sizing cooling in some cases - a party with 20 people, a lot of cooking with exhaust fans and door openings will make a big difference (as much as 2 tons). Maybe a high mass house and an irregular schedule where you don't want to wait so long for cool down.
Dana1User is Offline
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02 Aug 2012 12:20 PM
Posted By jonr on 02 Aug 2012 07:53 AM
I can see over-sizing cooling in some cases - a party with 20 people, a lot of cooking with exhaust fans and door openings will make a big difference. Maybe a high mass house and an irregular schedule where you don't want to wait so long for cool down.
So, you're saying you'd pay another $11.5K for an extra ton of geo to be able to stay cool during parties? 

If he needs more cooling than a right-sized heating GSHP delivers, a pretty good 1.5-2 ton cooling-only mini-split would cost <$4K and cool at least as efficiently as the oversized geo in this (mostly-latent-load) location with a 1% cooling design temp of merely 86F.

jonrUser is Offline
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02 Aug 2012 01:45 PM
Not at all and yes, in some geo cases, that would be a more cost effective way to get extra capacity. Neither applies to the OP's heating dominated case.
engineerUser is Offline
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02 Aug 2012 11:03 PM
If the question of entertainment arises I design zoned systems to be able to direct full capacity to a single large central zone. I advise clients facing a large gathering on a hot day to raise setpoint in outlying zones such as master suite, an upper floor or bedroom wing and lower setpoint to the party area.

It is something of a load-shedding scheme, allowing the system to prioritize on the party without being oversized (and overpriced) the other 364 days of the year.

Somewhat the same thing can be done with multi-headed minisplits - install somewhat more evap capacity than the compressor can simultaneously serve
Curt Kinder <br><br>

The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is - Winston Churchill <br><br><a href="http://www.greenersolutionsair.com">www.greenersolutionsair.com</a>
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