This recently completed home using bare SIPs on mono-pitched roofs
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Do you have any suggestion on how to attach to AAC block walls?

AAC walls are finished by embedding J (anchor) bolts in the bond beam concrete and attaching a top plate, which is typically pressure treated lumber. At that point SIP roofing is business as usual, but I don't know what that business is.

Posted By toddm on 30 Aug 2015 09:37 AM
AAC walls are finished by embedding J (anchor) bolts in the bond beam concrete and attaching a top plate, which is typically pressure treated lumber. At that point SIP roofing is business as usual, but I don't know what that business is.

It's just a long screw (with a neoprene washer) that goes through the steel SIP panel down into the top plate about every 8 inches. With a one-slope roof you would only have to tape the seams between each steel SIP panel and call it finished. The edges have a brake-formed track the same color/finish as the steel SIP skin to cover the foam, analogous to the fascia. Where the soffit would be is prefinished because it's simply the underside of the SIP panel.

Thank You one and all! that sounds like the roof- steel sips, the walls-AAC block,the floor-poured and scored concrete. I figure a center column of blocks for the stovepipe and also support for the loft, and extend it to support the roof. Now I need to draw up a floor plan, I downloaded a free one from small houses but, it didn't take into account 8" walls. Next challenge get Engineers signature. Then a new survey for permits. Clear trees and level rocks for slab. Sometimes I feel like I'm in over my head!

OH no I didn"t inquire about going through the roof w/ pipe, I just assumed something like a skylight panel. Maybe I should rethink this and put the pipe through the wall .

OH no I didn"t inquire about going through the roof w/ pipe, I just assumed something like a skylight panel. Maybe I should rethink this and put the pipe through the wall .

Well yes you've still got so much to accomplish between now and permitting, and yes it can be very overwhelming, and yes you may be in over your head. I have no intention of discouraging you, but it should be underscored that you don't know how much you don't know.

I think you've got to get a basic floorplan settled on so that you can get some real numbers to start planning a budget. That doesn't mean buying a set of plans just yet. That means figuring out what you need in terms of space and position, then start adding up square footage of wall and roof areas so you can start researching prices to find out if this whole thing can even work for you. If the numbers are too high do you switch to a different construction method or do you trim down the size of the house, for example.

There are several envelope penetrations you'll have to consider in addition to the stove, plumbing for example has to be vented (usually out the roof), if you use natural gas it will have to be properly vented, et cetera.

What Jelly says. It's very difficult to get a loan after you start as DIY. Banks say they worry about liens that may take precedence over theirs, but they are also seeing a clear example of poor judgment on your part. While it is natural to feel inadequate, the keys are to recognize when you are in fact not up to the task at hand, seek help sooner rather than later and have the budget cushion you need to pay for it.

You should also scope out the local construction industry. Is the building inspector tolerant of owner/builders? How busy is everyone? Too busy means trouble finding moonlighters and getting subcontractors to show up. Unusual regulations? Streamside in Pa means costly storm water runoff mitigation. Are septic systems easy or complicated in your soil conditions? Foundation problems because of the soil? The building code itself is a handful. Buy one of the many books and bone up on each step beforehand.

Finally most DIYers don't appreciate how much work is involved. Site clearing is a fine place to get a taste of it. I got down to my high school weight during construction. Sad to say I found all the pounds I lost after we moved in. They were hiding under the sofa.



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Most DIY'ers say they would never do it again , when they are finished, except for Jelly, he's thinking about it again

Three complete remodels. Two new houses. Like the old saw. You can build it fast. You can build it cheap. You can build it right. Pick two of the three. Most pros have no idea what a luxury time is.

I never was very fast, but I am a VIRGO. altho afflicted, so that I cannot actually reach perfection, I'm doomed to strive for it anyway. Drives me nuts, along w/ whoever I'm working with, my husband.He says "don't start that virgo bulls***,that has to be good enough.Budget dictates cheap (inexpensive). That said, I talked to Mike at aerconaac. He's being more than helpful,He said he has some surplus block I can get at a discount, and that he"ll get my floorplans looked over and altered, even help with permits! A friend of my husband worked in masonry, and will also help with advice and footings.Claims he could have a CMU house built in weeks,I haven"t gotten his imput on MY plans yet,still working out kinks, I need a "game plan" so my husband can see the "big picture" first.That leaves me waiting for a proper survey. Finding and clearing off my septic tank.and any other hurdles the county decides I need to jump just to get started.

Posted By cmkavala on 31 Aug 2015 05:55 PM
Most DIY'ers say they would never do it again , when they are finished, except for Jelly, he's thinking about it again

Guilty as charged 

@UREdoLady The is a company that I have been looking into for with systems building with AAC. The company is call Forever House USA. They seem to be reinforcing the AAC with steel studs. The AAC panels are screw directly into the steel studs. The steel studs are beneficial because it allows you to screw the drywal directly into steel beams on the inside. They also package a metal roof attachment. It may be something you want to look into.

Don't get the idea that Forever Houses invented AAC hung as curtain walls. Happens the world over, including commercial buildings in the US. Here is the exact same approach used in New Zealand residential construction. http://www.cladx.co.nz/claddingsolutions.html Doesn't make a whole lot of sense unless you want a stucco house. (Stucco over AAC is easy and versatile. You can tart up your house just short of gargoyles. In fact buy an electric chainsaw and add the mythical beasts as well.)

If no stucco, fire protection and soundproofing make modest arguments for this approach. I'd say sheathing with reclaimed foam board is greener and more efficient. It is definitely not a one-woman system. You need a special gripping tool and a crane to set the panels, which weigh 400-500 pounds. You'd want that crane gone quickly.

However, if you want soundproof interior walls and you have three, four burly friends, AAC panels minus the steel studs are a good solution. Hotels are early adapters because of sound and fire containment.

OT I trying to use AAC blocks 8x8x24 they'll be both interior/ exterior wall 8' thick. I have a house plan from - free SMALL HOUSE PLANS CATALOG The FARGESHIA (if interested google it) It sports a 1 slope shed roof and will convert to block no problem I just need to decide how to do the roof.Steel sips from CK was suggested because of the insulation and weight factor but, the cost may not be feasable.So I'm open to suggestions on type of Steel roof and insulation, if I have to hire a crane or installer/ contractor it's going to be beyond me too.

Building interior walls with 4x8x24 block would save money and interior space. A warning tho regardless of block size: routing electrical is complicated, messy and involves additional expense. Three options: cut a channel in the block face; cut a groove in the block joint and run the wire during wall construction; or attach a steel channel called a wiremold on the outside. Code calls for outdoor wire or conduit for electrical in concrete walls.

You've probably read of reclaimed foam insulation board. There is lots of it out there from demolition of strip malls ans early wal-marts. If you look up in those buildings you will see row upon row of light steel trusses that would be dandy for your application. They got melted down when China was buying all the steel it could find. That's changed. The engineers here will know better than me but dunno why the basic triangle kind can't be trimmed to size, although too long also equals too heavy. You seem like you have scrounging skills. That's my favorite part.

toddm That's great but i'm in (no mans land) uwharrie national forest - it's probably several hundred miles to an abandoned strip mall and i'd hate to see the cost of shipping from outside sorces probably more than the cost of materials.,but there's quite a few abandoned steel buildings in the county.THanks for the idea

Posted By UREdogLady on 04 Sep 2015 12:35 PM
...Steel sips from CK was suggested because of the insulation and weight factor but, the cost may not be feasable...

This is the kind of thing you have to very carefully pencil out. Add up the cost of every single component in another roof system, from trusses to insulation to sheathing to skilled labor PLUS the cosmetic roof (which will be necessary with a different kind of roof assembly). After all that is it really more economical? You have a lot of homework to do!

Posted By UREdogLady on 04 Sep 2015 12:35 PM
...AAC blocks 8x8x24 they'll be both interior/ exterior wall 8' thick...

Wouldn't steel framing and sheetrock be quicker, easier, and cheaper for interior walls?