Posted By NetComrade on 24 Mar 2018 07:58 PM
Thank you.. I didn't realize R value can even be this high on windows w/o focusing on that (which I probably should have done, as these were no minor investment).. The snow receded and I went to check, the U is 0.28 on the bigger ones (it's close on the other two.. .27 and .29).. SHGC is 0.32..
These are south facing, although no sun until about noon (east wall/trees)
That would make it R-value of slightly above 3.
The ship has already sailed, but for the south facing windows of high thermal mass solar-tempered homes in your climate it's worth buying double low-E glass with a low E coating surface #2 (interior side of exterior pane) and an a hard-coat low E coating on surface #4 (the interior surface of the interior pane- the surface you can touch), withe an SHGC north of 0.5. The U-factor of that kind of glass is about U0.20 (if argon filled), comparable to triple-panes for heat loss, but nearly twice the solar gain of U0.30-ish single low-E glass. (Cardinal's LoE-180 on surface #2 + i89 on surface #4 glass is one example.)
Between the lower loss and higher gain you get much better wintertime performance out of your south facing windows out of less overall window area. Designing roof overhangs to limit the summertime mid-day gains helps quell the additional cooling load. For west facing glass which is harder to shade due to the low sun angles, something with a lower SHGC would usually be more appropriate.
Paying attention to the termite hazard is important. Installing copper clad plastic sill gasket at the ground-foam to above grade foam transition can do a lot. Termites don't generally tunnel through CMU walls or through cementicious foam coatings in search of wood, but copper and borates both will kill the gut flora required for termites to digest the cellulose from wood. Backfilling with compacted clean sand can make a difference in termite susceptibility too.