Starting the garage I was finally able to try something out and I think it worked pretty well so far. I made the bucks to be like a split jamb door. I Ripped 2x12 to the OD of the ICF. After frame assembly I attached 8" plywood strips around the perimeter of the frame. I used 8" because our icf has studs every 6" o.c. and this enables the plyood to catch one icf stud no matter what. The frames were squared with 1x stock nailed thru the plywood into the frame. With the first row of blocks to notched to recieve the frame it was slid into place, leveled and screwed to the bottom row of blocks. as rows of blocks were added they were screwed to the plwood. once the blocks were completly around the form the other side has plyood strips attaced to blocks/frame. Added a couple of spreaders for good luck.
Another advantage to this was it has made the walls 1 unit rather than independent on either side of the doorways. So far so good.

Hey Freaky, I'd like to see some before and after photos of what you're describing if you find time. Dave

I would love to post some of my pics but dont know how.. if someone could point me toward a tutorial on how to do this I will get it done.

This is pretty basic. If you have a digital camera, it should have come with some software to load onto your computer. Then use that software and a camera-to-computer cable to download the digital photos to a subfolder under MY DOCUMENTS on the C drive.

When that's done, access ADD REPLY at the top or near the bottom of these thread pages in Greenbuildingtalk (not the Quick Reply at the very bottom). You can do more creative posts there including browsing to find and add your photos from the C drive.

Perhaps others who post numerous photos could enlighten you a bit more. Good luck! Dave

 So today we had our second pour, no blowouts. we double checked wall lines and made adjustments as needed. All seemed well. I talked to the sales rep about his procedure to use an I joist screwed perpendicular to the wall along the bottom of the top course. He claims we could have saved much time with this system and I do not doubt it. Bracing is still required with his I joist system but he claims them to be every 8' or so. 
   Our bracing system worked ok. inside the main house was easy simply attaching them spring board style on the flat to the floor deck. The garage required stakes driven into the ground and they were not nearly as reliable and we attached those braces on edge. Many of the garage braces were simply attached to the door/window bucks which made life easier. There were very few adjustments required for the  the garage fortunately.   Turnbuckles would have made our job much easier.
I will try to post some pics and explain the different bucks, braceing used.

front of house

pics of the second style of buck system we used. The inset bucks often hit the webbing in the block making it difficult to layout. Once foamed in place they are solid but freefloat until they are secured with the wrap around 2x system you will see. Again I dont reccomend this system. one pic shows 2x4 spreader with a verticle support attached to it to carry the top of the buck.

resizing pics can be frustrating

in the last post you can see the channel left open to get concrete in the window buck. to the right where the ladder is there are 2x4 on the center of every course of block. These are necessary because there is no web in the block here and it is a week point. this system of support seemed to work best. It is even better to "lace" the 2x4's here to make it even stronger.

pic of window buck which went in fast and secured square and plumb with ease. Shims were used to help fix errors from the first pour this idea from the homeowner worked well and once we installed a set of braces back to the deck at the 4' level it was back on track.