Best roof for ICF ???
Last Post 21 Feb 2009 10:24 PM by Kelly Moore. 31 Replies.
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thagreenUser is Offline
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07 Jan 2009 01:06 PM
BTW I don't have any problems w/ sips, it's a great system for where applicable which is the same for any product available out there. Also dead on about the roof being well insul if the attic space is being used, if not simply insul the ceiling and the job is done. As for diy'ers, most dist or/and manufac have implemented tecknical support programs (which comes w/purchase of the product for my part) that should be MANDATORY for protection of the diy'er and the industry. An on site training not an in class couple of hours trainning, should be regular practice cause we all know a pic is worth a 1000 words .
Cheers!


GreginAlaskaUser is Offline
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15 Feb 2009 12:00 AM
I will be putting a monolithic dome roof on mine...should be extremely strong and energy efficient...it will also be very expensive.



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Raul HinojosaUser is Offline
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17 Feb 2009 09:35 PM

An insulated concrete roof will be my first option. If you are spending the money for the peace of mind of an ICF wall system you will have to think about the most important thing....The roof....so why build it out of wood trusses or light weight insulated systems as SIP's.....an insulated concrete roof, either flat or pitched will be the best match.

Raul



GreginAlaskaUser is Offline
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19 Feb 2009 06:01 AM
Basically I'm with Raul, Monolithic dome is steel reinforced concrete, just a bit different way of building it.

http://static.monolithic.com/


Attach and inflate airform, on the inside spray an inch or two of polyurethane, install rebar hangers, spray another 3 inches of foam, attach grid of rebar, shotcrete.



Kelly MooreUser is Offline
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20 Feb 2009 10:41 PM
How about structrual aluminum "I" Beam roof rafters? Then put 8" EPS in between them and spray it with a waterproof spray that has structual strength? Over the foam glue a 2" thin piece of foam that looks like shingles or "S" tile and then you don't ever need to replace the shingles... Just paint every 5/8 years or so depending where you live...

Kelly Moore
561.309.2420


Raul HinojosaUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2009 08:43 AM
That's like a light weight sytem. What about performance in 150+mph winds?

Raul


Kelly MooreUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2009 10:12 AM
It works great in that area, I am using it on a house in Pensacola Fl now in a high wind zone. It is not the weight of the system but the fact that there are no seams or pieces to tear off, the skin has passed the large missel and cycling test for State of Florida standards...

Kelly
561.309.2420


Kelly MooreUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2009 02:04 PM
I also forgot to add that the roof raters on the 2200 sq ft home that I am now doing are 6"x 4" Structual Aluminum "I" beams that are 38' long and they weigh 4.030 pounds per foot and are on 4' centers, not to mention the 10 x 7 "I" beam that is the ridge beam.

I think that the weight of the roof aluminum was around 5500 lbs...

Not that light weight...LOL

Kelly
561.309.2420


Raul HinojosaUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2009 02:14 PM

Well, a typical wood frame house weight around 25 psf and still having troble withstanding 146+ mph winds (the pressure in the corners easily exceed 100 psf of uplift pressure). All will depend how far you put your rafter or aluminum beams or else. For me a concrete roof you will not have to worry about connection....big spans (depending what system you are using)....and you have also de benefit of the insulation, and can be easy engineered to withstand 160 or more winds.

Raul



Kelly MooreUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2009 05:08 PM

Well the rafters are welded to a aluminum "C" Channel at the top of the wall and that is attached to the slab with a 5/8 threaded rod, then a strap is also bolted to the same rod over the rafters on both sides...  Uplift in not an issue...

Speaking of attic insulation, have you seen the NEW R-49 for the 2009 International code???

How can you do that with wood rafters or a wood roof???

Kelly Moore
561.309.2420



Bruce FreyUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2009 09:08 PM
Posted By Kelly Moore on 02/20/2009 10:41 PM
 Then put 8" EPS in between them and spray it with a waterproof spray that has structual strength?
What is this....a polyurethane foam?  What is the trade name?

Bruce


Kelly MooreUser is Offline
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21 Feb 2009 10:24 PM
The foam is Exspanded Polystyrene...  The spray is not yet on the market but will be real soon...  Just to give you an idea I am sure that you know acrylic stucco, this does 100% better job, is waterproof, will last for many years just faux paint it.  What I do is cut the EPS to look like brick, siding, stone or stucco then the spray goes on about 100 mills thick like a nickle and a dime put together.  You can hit it with a hammer and it will bounce off it.  I spray the whole house with it, the roof of the system is also solid foam and I cut the EPS to look like shingles or tile, the house I am doing now in Pensacola, Fl will have Bermuda Tile...  All the owner will ever have to do is paint it...

The system is made of structual aluminum and foam, NO CONCRETE pouring...  Wall sections are made in a warehoue and then go up like tilt-wall, NO CRAIN NEEDED...  The roof is welded on site...

Kelly Moore
561.309.2420


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