Hi Joe. Just curious, why is Fox Block best? I have worked with Ice-block, Conform, Green Block, Arxx, Logix, EcoBlock, Polysteel, and NUDURA. It strikes me that they're pretty much the same (except for some of the earlier forms; ugh!!; and the assemble-on-site forms). I rate NUDURA tops because of zero-compression in the wall, among other things. FM

I'm glad you said that about Nudura because that's the one I'm probably going to use. Fox Blocks don't seem to have travelled the Atlantic yet.

I had a look at the Op-Deck stuff. (I eventually managed to find a brochure in English!) It looks like a really clever idea but I'm not sure that it's right for me. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

Posted By wes on 29 Mar 2010 08:49 AM
AA,
I am late to this party, so to speak. If you have not made a decision yet, consider this.
If the overhang will only be a couple inches:
Make the ICF gable wall the same height as the top of your roof trusses/rafters.
Hold the concrete down the thickness of a standard timber (1.5"?)
Set j bolts (or eq.) in the concrete with no more than one timber thickness of exposure.
Attach a treated timber with the nut and washer of the j bolts countersunk level with the top of the wood.
Attach a treated timber to the outside of the ICF with screws through the outer ICF panel and into the wood plate and/or concrete.
Attach any additional wood (if needed) to achieve the desired overhang.
Attach your roof sheathing (plywood?) to trusses and extending over the ICF wall and overhang, holding it flush with the outside of the overhang.
Make sure you over nail/screw the sheathing to the top plate of the ICF wall.
I, personally, would hold the overhang to no more than the thickness of one timber (1.5"?). This configuration would be extremely difficult for strong winds to lift off the house.
If this is of interest, and you want more information, PM me and I will send you a section drawing.

This sounds like a great idea for building an ICF gable wall. No overhang is good in Florida, and if finished right I think it will look good. My question is if using a treated board as sort of a gable fascia then how would you best waterproof the junction of the board with the ICF EPS in preparation for roofing with a galvalume roof and using one of those end caps that would cover over the top few inches of the board. How could you wrap that board with metal fascia. If you stucco or use hardiboard what is the best approach? Since there is no overhang, waterproofing becomes critical. Still, I am abandoning my plans for a parapet wall here to make a gable covered by the metal roof to avoid all the worries about water intrusion on all the complicated roof/wall connections of a parapet wall. Any advice appreciated.

Posted By john636 on 23 Jul 2013 11:02 AM

Posted By wes on 29 Mar 2010 08:49 AM

This sounds like a great idea for building an ICF gable wall. No overhang is good in Florida, and if finished right I think it will look good. My question is if using a treated board as sort of a gable fascia then how would you best waterproof the junction of the board with the ICF EPS in preparation for roofing with a galvalume roof and using one of those end caps that would cover over the top few inches of the board. How could you wrap that board with metal fascia. If you stucco or use hardiboard what is the best approach? Since there is no overhang, waterproofing becomes critical. Still, I am abandoning my plans for a parapet wall here to make a gable covered by the metal roof to avoid all the worries about water intrusion on all the complicated roof/wall connections of a parapet wall. Any advice appreciated.

You would use a jamb trim to cover the fascia first. It starts at the bottom 1.5" and then wraps up the side. If you have a custom metal shop, you should add a drip edge at the 90º so that the water drops off the fascia clear of the stucco. After your roofing is on, a standard gable trim will cover the roofing and wrap down over the fascia trim.