Posted By Lbear on 11 Jan 2013 11:18 PM

Posted By dmaceld on 11 Jan 2013 08:22 PM

You don't need a capillary break when you're that far above ground. Thermal bridging with a wood plate isn't enough to be concerned about.

I meant a break to stop the moisture of the concrete from being sucked up into the lumber.

That is what he said by his statement "You don't need a capillary break when you're that far above ground."

I don't think one is required by code at the top of an above grade poured concrete wall, but I would still install one.

Another option for this capillary break and a good air sealer that adds strength to the assembly as well is ~3 rows of ~3/8" beads of polyurethane construction adhesive on top of the concrete before the plate is set.  The polyurethane is waterproof and expands slightly as it cures to fill any voids.

Posted By arkie6 on 12 Jan 2013 11:46 AM
I don't think one is required by code at the top of an above grade poured concrete wall, but I would still install one.

Another option for this capillary break and a good air sealer that adds strength to the assembly as well is ~3 rows of ~3/8" beads of polyurethane construction adhesive on top of the concrete before the plate is set.  The polyurethane is waterproof and expands slightly as it cures to fill any voids.

My civil engineer cousin recommended a barrier between the wood bucks and concrete for door and window openings, but not because of moisture from the concrete. He said what happens is the thermal differences between the wood and concrete can lead to condensation at the interface so a barrier is good to have to prevent the condensation from collecting on the wood surface. I used sill seal for that barrier.

IIRC the code, 2006 IRC, does not require decay resistant wood nor a barrier for wood in contact with concrete more than 9" above grade.