Watkins are around $14 for the one piece bracket. Sorry someone mentioned drilling the bolt holes after. With the Watkins hangers you make 2 4" slits in the foam. Total time 30 seconds max. Install the bracket and your done. No hangers needed so you save on them. Pour the wall and your ready for your floor joist. I used the Simpson hanger when it first came out and it was a pain. Because of the thickness of the plates it's very easy to strip the screws thru the plate, requiring drilling of pilot holes.

smartwall - who does the layout of the joists? Your people or the framers? Or are they one and the same?
How do you make sure the pour doesn't knock the hangers out of line?

Furring strip screwed into the webs under the hanger, although when I pour I leave them out until the wall is topped off. Less crap to pour around. As far as the layout it depends if the framer wants to or we do it. It's on the blue print so just follow it.

Posted By FBBP on 08 Oct 2016 11:36 AM
smartwall - The floor has to be placed anyway. We normally do the floor in place when we have multi storey walls to do ie the basement and the main floor and sometimes a second storey. The main advantage is that the house is perfectly plumb and square prior to the placing of concrete so you don't have to spend time afterwards in truing up the walls. In a big pour, lower wall concrete is already kicking over so it is hardier to true up the walls at the end. The other big difference is that you have the whole floor to pour off not just the catwalk. Much nicer especially in the winter when catwalks are icy.

loghomebuilder - almost all floors will have a beam or two in the floor system. We just set up the steel columns on their pads and set the beam with the ends cut into the ICF wall. We put an extra temporary column under the beam at the wall. If it is a steel beam, there should be Nelson Studs on the end to embed into the concrete. Alternatively a pair of holes can be cut into the web and rebar inserted. If wood, some jurisdictions require a moisture barrier around the beam.
If you go to the link I posted to Integraspec you will see how to use flags on the bolts. With that method, you don't have to remove any foam other then the bolt hole. If you use standard bolts, 6" is more then enough, four inches better if the bolt is centered. This method does cause a bit of thermal bridging and in theory there is wood in contact with concrete is you don't place a moisture barrier.

fvicf - what is your concerned about open time on the ICF?

Sorry, did see this sooner. My concern is that if I am doing this myself I'd have the ICF (basement) walls standing without concrete while I'm putting the floor trusses in place. I guess I'd be concerned about wind, etc causing havoc with them.

fvid - All the bracing will be on the wall. If its braced well enough to pour concrete, it should withstand most other forces.

Posted By FBBP on 20 Oct 2016 09:24 AM
fvid - All the bracing will be on the wall. If its braced well enough to pour concrete, it should withstand most other forces.

Thank you for the clarification. I was led to believe the bracing wasn't needed and the floor deck was what kept the walls aligned and I would save on the brace rental.