Sound Transmission of SIP's
Last Post 30 Dec 2008 12:54 PM by MarkosWoodWorking. 103 Replies.
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TedWhiteUser is Offline
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24 Dec 2008 12:44 PM
Posted By MarkosWoodWorking on 12/24/2008 12:42 PM
Should just do it the same way as I did in my workshop to reduce noise into the house...staple egg cartons all over the walls and ceiling. Might not look overly attractive, but as long as you give it a good coat of paint, who's going to complain? =P


... not unless you're an egg farmer


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24 Dec 2008 12:45 PM
Where do you get 25 ga. Hi-hat from? The garbage we get around here is, I believe, 32 ga. We won't even use it unless it's specifically requested, and even then we use drywall screws through the drywall that will reach into studs (of course, greatly reducing it's effectiveness). That stuff will practically bend if you blow on it!


Matthew Sokalski<br>Markos WoodWorking,<br>Akasu Contracting and Consulting (Attr.)
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24 Dec 2008 12:47 PM
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/index.php?/library/articles/furring_channel_with_resilient_sound_clips

Some information about the channel. THis is used with resilient clips, which are also not appropriate for direct application to SIP panels (too small an air cavity)


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24 Dec 2008 12:53 PM
Ah, this stuff looks way smarter then the stuff we get. I suppose that's one disadvantage to living in a small town... your options are quite limited to what the local lumberyard sells.


Matthew Sokalski<br>Markos WoodWorking,<br>Akasu Contracting and Consulting (Attr.)
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24 Dec 2008 12:54 PM
If you take some steel 2x3 or wood, for that matter, and just come away 1/2" from that SIP, you'll have a remarkable improvement in sound isolation


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24 Dec 2008 01:03 PM
Posted By MarkosWoodWorking on 12/24/2008 12:45 PM
Where do you get 25 ga. Hi-hat from? The garbage we get around here is, I believe, 32 ga. We won't even use it unless it's specifically requested, and even then we use drywall screws through the drywall that will reach into studs (of course, greatly reducing it's effectiveness). That stuff will practically bend if you blow on it!

Any drywall supply house usually stocks 7/8" and 1-1/2"          Lowes stocks 7/8"


Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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24 Dec 2008 01:06 PM
Matt, what are you contemplating with the hat track?


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24 Dec 2008 03:12 PM
Well, nothing in particular...I was just thinking that using it on the exterior as well as the interior certainly couldn't hurt as far as sound transmission is concerned. The stuff we have around here though, I'd trust it to vinyl siding, but that's about it.


Matthew Sokalski<br>Markos WoodWorking,<br>Akasu Contracting and Consulting (Attr.)
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24 Dec 2008 03:17 PM
Posted By MarkosWoodWorking on 12/24/2008 3:12 PM
Well, nothing in particular...I was just thinking that using it on the exterior as well as the interior certainly couldn't hurt as far as sound transmission is concerned. The stuff we have around here though, I'd trust it to vinyl siding, but that's about it.


But in fact it could hurt.

Installing on both sides would be redundant. That's been tested quite a bit on open studs.

Installing over drywall will make things worse over much of the frequency spectrum. We deal with this quite a bit. The small air cavity is bad, though commonly installed and specified


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24 Dec 2008 03:30 PM
Installing over drywall? Unless your mind was backwards for a minute there, I can honestly say I have no idea what you're talking about. As far as a small air cavity being bad, what's the science behind that? Wouldn't one layer of 5/8" drywall over hi-hat be stiff enough to negate the "drum skin" effect?


Matthew Sokalski<br>Markos WoodWorking,<br>Akasu Contracting and Consulting (Attr.)
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24 Dec 2008 03:38 PM

Sorry for any confusion. Side note... we don't want stiff, we want flex.

You want to avoid trapping any thin air cavity that is less than 2.5"  So installing a hat channel directly to a SIP panel, existing drywall wall, cement wall, etc is a bad thing. Any air cavity will resonate. Deeper cavities will resonate at a lower frequency than shallow air cavities. It is critical to drive that resonance point down as low as possible.

See the attached document. Data is from the NRC in Canada. Note how intruducing a small air cavity to a solid wall (in their example it is concrete, but the analogy is appropriate) makes things marginally better at some frequencies but much worse lower? The lower frequencies are where 95% of noise complaints are. So in practice, it is a very poor trade.


Attachment: concreteplusadons.pdf

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24 Dec 2008 03:58 PM
I understand we want some flex, but obviously not too much. Actually, as far as that goes, have you any idea where the line is drawn where mass vs flex is concerned?

Assume we had an independant 2x2 wall, insulated with fiberglass and set half an inch away from the existing SIP wall. Would we be better off than if we had a 2x2 uninsulated wall set a half inch away from the SIP?


Matthew Sokalski<br>Markos WoodWorking,<br>Akasu Contracting and Consulting (Attr.)
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24 Dec 2008 04:02 PM
Our typical interior installation is: 25 ga. x 1-1/2" steel hi-hat @24" oc, then 1/2" drywall

exterior:  siding screw attached directly to 26. ga. steel SIP skin ( hardi plank, vinyl, 7/8" stucco over metal lath)


Chris Kavala<br>[email protected]<br>1-877-321-SIPS<br />
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24 Dec 2008 04:03 PM
Good question Matt. You would definately be better with an insulated cavity. The walls you described are decoupled. This sets them into another category of isolation altogether. Any decoupled partition, whether wall or ceiling, will respond dramatically to the addition of a small amount of loose insulation (fiberglass) as well as mass.

A coupled wall will not benefit so dramatically to the addition of mass or insulation.

Chris, if you could deepen that interior air cavity, things would be improved quite a bit. As it stands you are in a liability in the low frequencies. I hate to say that.


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24 Dec 2008 04:20 PM
Where does the benefit lie in a decoupled wall? For instance, would we be better off yet to insulate the whole system (2x2 wall and 1/2" space)?


Matthew Sokalski<br>Markos WoodWorking,<br>Akasu Contracting and Consulting (Attr.)
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24 Dec 2008 04:27 PM
As long as the insulation isn't more than moderately compressed, you're fine if the insulation contacts the original wall surface. The key element is that the new wall is able to move independent of the original. R8 or maybe R11 fiberglass would be OK for such a wall. Definately not foam of any kind.


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24 Dec 2008 04:28 PM
Right, ok...thanks Ted, I think I get the concept now...


Matthew Sokalski<br>Markos WoodWorking,<br>Akasu Contracting and Consulting (Attr.)
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24 Dec 2008 04:32 PM
This wall concept is a huge leap toward sound isolation. Standard building materials, highly effective and easy. Takes up wall space, no doubt, but a very effective solution.


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25 Dec 2008 06:00 PM
Ted,

Thank you for a series of interesting posts.  These are questions, not challenges (I don't know enough for that!).

The chart at the URL you posted shows the transmission LOSS, and the loss drops radically in the lower frequencies; however, the minimum is still 20 db of loss.  How does that result in an amplification?  (Yes, that's what the highlight note on the chart says, but it would seem to be a relative issue rather than an actual amplification.  And, if it is an actual amplification, where does that energy come from?)

The chart says that "impact noise" will be amplified and that "airborne noise" will suffer also.   Unfortunately, the chart does not define either term.  If impact noise is noise created when an object strikes the exterior of the wall, then I'd think that it is a relatively minor issue -- I don't expect frequent impacts.  If airborne noise is the normal stuff that I want to attenuate, then how does it suffer with the use of battens and drywall?

If I put a massive siding on, does that matter?  For example, three points on that continuum might be vinyl siding (low mass and flexible, 1/4" average void ?), Hardi siding (moderate mass, less flex, 1/4"- 3/4" void depending on what strips are used), and brick veneer (high mass, low flex, 3/4" void?). 

VERY respectfully,
Larry


MarkosWoodWorkingUser is Offline
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26 Dec 2008 02:43 AM

And just to add as another note, Ted...

It may not be much of a sacrafice anyway. Consider a 6 1/2" thick polyurethane SIP, with around say, an value of R42 and 3/8" drywall on the inside. Now take a 4 1/2" polyurethane SIP with R26 (both are sizes and numbers used by Eco-Panels), with a 2X4 wall on the inside(R-12 insulation and 3/8" drywall).  This is the way I drew up the prints for my house (though I did use the 6 1/2" wall).

We're looking at a 6 7/8" R42 wall vs. an 8 3/8" R38 8 3/8" wall. Now, you do get slightly less thermal insulating value and slightly more loss in floorspace, but you have accomplished two other things as well:

1. Presumably, less noise transmission through the wall (in all spectrums?)

2. Ease of renovations. I don't know if this is a big deal with anyone else or not, but I really like the thought of just being able to throw an electrical box in a new location if I happen to have a wall ripped apart for whatever reason.

Of course, on the other side of things:

1. More cost/time/space used up
2. Less insulating value
3. Potentially more work for drywall returns and whatnot
4. Necessity of moisture barrier? I'm not sure about this one. According to my building inspector, to meet my local codes it would not be necessary. I don't know that I understand why.


I suppose it's another one of those things where I won't know what I will do until I do it. It's nice to have a tight, warm house...but if you can have almost the same, except quieter...?



Matthew Sokalski<br>Markos WoodWorking,<br>Akasu Contracting and Consulting (Attr.)
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