Larry;

Hangers are used to attaching to studs ( 16" or 24")anyway, so it should not take any more time to hang, finish etc.
Certainly drywall with "solid" backing is going to feel like a brick, but most exterior walls would have spaced studs if you were building conventionally, so the feel will be the same as a regular home. , but the upside is the structural and thermal envelope are far superior with SIPs.
all the interior framing in my own personal home is 24" oc with light gage steel, all steel is perfectly flat...no bows, twists, nail pops, no mold and no termites or carpenter ants

This is humorous at best. The Tin Men are trying to justify adding materials and labor to their product(which apparently is required, that is, if you want electricity), and trying to justify that as a benefit. Hmmmm.

So, where is that advantage?

Could call you a wood butcher , but have never seen your work. No all testing is done with bare panel no furring required for stuctural integrity

Okay we will go thru the drill one more time for you with short term memory loss:
Advantages: no splines needed, no seam fastening required, no soffit needed (roof underside already finished!), no vapor barrier needed, no crane needed to set wall or roof panels, will not rot, swell, termite and carpenter ant resistant (no food value), cost less to insure than wood frame -53% and block -30% (in Florida) builders risk insurance is less because of "all steel" construction.
You can eat off the skins i they are USDA approved for use in food service areas. They will not support mold growth (like wood)
panels are available up to 53ft. in length ( not limited to 24ft. like OSB)
for economy walls and roof (simple gables and hip designs) can be left EXPOSED indefinitly. with no additional siding and roofing.
Steel buildings are safer in a lightning storm. Steel SIP buildings are currently being used for public hurricane shelters in Lee County, FL.
Are greener than wood using recylcled steel

Panel crafters ...please humor us by stating all the advantages of OSB panels that the steel does not have

I am not an expert by any stretch. You can space the z strips any way you want. So I suspect the more z strips the
more solid it would be. My eperience is that I used these z strips which are designed to be used with sheet rock(drywall) to make a drain plane on my garage which I was putting T-11 siding on. It is as solid as a rock,
and I am very happy with the results. I was going to use hat channel but couldn't get it without going accross town so I used the z strip. The wide part where you attach the drywall is dimpled so the screws catch and it is plenty wide, so there isn't a problem of missing the target. I can't say anything about the floating time since I haven't done that in over 20 years, but since this stuff is designed specifically for drywall I shouldn't think it would be a problem.

For the people who haven't built yet:
If you are going to use sips and you live in a noisy environment then this is well worth doing, and does not really add to the project, since you have to put the drywall in anyway. If you are paranoid about it being solid enough, you could always use 5/8 drywall or double up the 1/2 inch. I am sure your insurance guy will love you.

Bruce

I haven't built yet and I think I'm going to apply some of the suggestions in this thread. I've searched for z strip, hi hat and RC-1 with no success, there are too many similar names for dissimilar products. Can somebody point me in the direction of what these three materials are? Are any of these similar to the steel studs I'm using for the interior walls, if not would steel studs between the sheetrock and SIPs wall make sense compared to any of the three other materials mentioned? Sound elimination really isn't my issue since my nearest neighbor is 700 feet away but rather ease of wiring, minimizing cost if I have to add wire in the future but decreasing noise would be a nice benefit though.

Road Block;

any drywall/steel stud supply house handles and probably stocks all those products.

http://www.dietrichsoftware.com/cgi-bin/dmfweb.sh/productselector/main.html?sessionID=


Lowes even stocks 7/8 hi-hat ( which is ok on vaulted ceilings) but they are too expensive

I prefer 1-1/2"  "Z" furring on walls and 1/2" RC-1 channels on ceilings for sound control.

In addition when using 1-1/2" hi-hat or "Z" furring on walls you can use a 4x4x 1-1/2" deep square box with a 1/2" plaster ring - attached directly to skin for all outlets and switches ,  99% of the time there is no need to cut the skin. On a rare occasion when additional depth is needed for multiple gang boxes on an exterior wall you would need to cut for the box, but this usually only occurs on 1 switch per house , if it happens at all.

On ceilings the 1/2" RC-1 channel works great, there you do not need the depth as you just need a romex chase and most fixtures are done with  pancake box or just a wire stub.

What ever you use get the lightest gage (25 ga. ) and it it more than adequate

21 Minute response time! Not too shabby.
Uh, it's one word, PanelCrafters, and I'll throw something together just for you!

Chris,
Thanks for the info, now I understand. That site solved a couple other problems I was having with domed ceilings as well.