Posted By JeffD on 18 Jul 2010 08:10 PM
awhite,

When using metal framing in general one should plan out where to use solid wood blocking to ensure proper fastening of decorative trim, window treatments, appliances, cabinets, door casings, control boxes, lighting fixtures, railings etc. One example of this is to install a continuous wood furring strip at the base of the wall to allow the base boards to be installed with a brad nailer. Using metal furring strips at the base of the wall is acceptable as well, but one would have to glue the base boards to the wall.

Cabinets should be anchored to solid wood blocking that is glued and screwed to the metal SIP wall between the furring channels and at the appropriate heights.

Metal SIPs usually have a factory painted finish so reaction to bare metal like copper piping is not a problem.

On the otherhand we try to avoid termite food as blocking, we never use for base, door casings, window bucks, etc. finish nailers will shoot intoand bite- up to 20 ga. steel, brad nailers will work too.  18 ga. flat strap can be used for kitchen cabinets, stair rail backing and grab bar installations and is much easier to install than wood blocking. we do still use wood for interior stairs and upper floor decking to steel joist systems.
I have not seen an interaction occur with steel/copper, in fact plumbers use steel strap. copper is rarely used CPVC is the most common pipe

Thanks Jeff and Chris.

Some types of panels tend to let moisture/water in at the base channel, especially if uncovered or not properly flashed or caulked. I would think wood furring strips at that spot would seem like an unnecessary invitation to mold and termites.

What I think Jelly is getting at is you do not want to put untreated wood blocking/furring strips tight to a bare concrete slab/floor. The simple solution is to leave a small gap between the blocking and the slab to isolate the wood from the slab which will continue to have moisture in it.

A hybrid metal/wood approach to metal SIP construction is a very practical way to build with metal SIPs.

I think what he means is he has leaky panels, but maybe Jelly would jump in and clarify

Jelly is still under construction. For his specific situation as a 'newbie build it yourself' homeowner, he needs to pay special attention to his 'drainage plane' and drainage in general. He wants to apply cement stucco over his metal wall panels, which is fine, but has minimal roof overhangs and parapet walls in a wet climate. He has imported an architectural style of home that did not evolve from/to the regional weather conditions, so for the long term success of his project, he must understand that the water that saturates his building envelop must be 'managed' and 'directed' off of and away from his building. Newbies must understand that you cannot 'block' water or 'contain' it, it must be 'channeled' and allowed to move freely using gravity to advantage.  

By the way, metal panels don't leak, joints/connections do, thus craftsmenship comes into play. Overall, metal panels are very forgiving and user friendly as regards construction for 'do it yourself'ers.

On a lighter note, building arts are like martial arts as regards to water management. You use your opponents force against himself and to your advantage to defeat him. Meaning, to a builder, water is his opponent and has a force and if understood can be manipulated, drained away and rendered harmless. Might sound funny but...

I have been to Jelly's project and he has done an outstanding job, especially considering the panels he had to work with were "slight irregulars" and were not "user friendly" his system would be problematic to even the seasoned builder.