Dana, its just tyvek and greenguard mixed. Basically the same stuffi think. By home slicker do you mean something else? Also, the roof has been under felt for two month and a half months. Roof goes on next week. How bad is that for sips. The scraps of sips i have outside show almost no sign of weathering. Insulspan uses a huber product so that probably helps. Thats guys

latest

Posted By jonr on 10 Apr 2010 09:24 PM

Hardie installation instructions show no furring strips with OSB or foam and in the case of concrete block and furring strips, the wrap is outside the furring strips.

As seen here

jonr;

I agree it was installed incorrectly no matter how you look at it, but only time will tell if the furring strips eventuallyrot or get eaten up.  I don't try to second guess the manufacturer.

Hello--another side of the earth reporting.

It is common practice to install furring strips beneath all types of siding in Japan.  Windows are installed, double-faced (bosoi) asphaltic tape is applied around openings, tyvek or another brand of air-infiltration barrier is installed; then the entire house is stripped.  The wood of choice here is "sugi" a type of cedar.  But my wood of choice is "hinoke", otherwise called Yellow cedar or possibly port orford??? cedar stripping.  Yellow cedar is naturally insect repellant (to termites) and has a lot of other resins that make it an acceptable exterior wood product.  It is available at all saw mills in the size 5/8 x 1 3/4" (15x45 mm)- referred to by Japanese carpenters as nuki or dobuchi.   I screw it onto the structure (same location as studding) also around windows--making sure that there is an air path from bottom to top available.  The main purpose is to allow air to circulate beneath the siding--for drying and also allow moisture that may have migrated from the interior to vent outward.  Hinoke holds a nail well--I use stainless ring shank nails that are 2" long for installing Hardee.  

Our problem here is:  hardee does not meet standards for fire resistance in Japan.  Even if it is noncombustible, it is supposed to be 12 mm thick (1/2")--Hardee is only around 7mm thick.  So far, I have not seen any documentation from Hardee that would show its fire resistance rating.  (This year, we will not be able to use the product) even though it is a very good product and holds up with extreme humidity conditions. 

If the product were distributed locally, it would have to carry a 10 year warranty (for Japan construction).  Since last year, no local distributor existed any longer.  I have to import it directly from the USA and use it as an unwarranted product. 

I do not know of a code requirement for an air space.  It is just a common practice which most builders follow.  Also wood stripping is cheaper than ripping plywood.  On my own home, I used thermax insulation as an exterior sheathing over 1/2" plywood.  I taped and sealed all the joints on the thermax and even taped the nail heads with aluminum tape.  After that--I installed Tyvek using a spray adhesive--to make a drainage plane.  On top of that I stripped the house with Hinoke--wider strips around the windows.  for a little accent I built up around the perimeters of the windows and installed color stainless (this is stainless -sheet stock .035 mm thickness bent to form exterior casing); also same details at corner posts--same stainless material.  Then installed hardee plank siding--finished with Sherwin-Williams Duration paint.  I hope to never have to paint the exterior of my house.  To my estimation--best siding, best paint, best trim material---hopefully a 30+ year exterior needing nothing but an occasional cleaning to keep it in good shape.

Well, that is a view from Tochigi prefecture Japan--60 miles inland from Tokyo!

Sorry to just be seeing this.  The gap is **very** Important.  The gap provides room for drying the outside shell and can make a huge difference in the ability of the wall to dry properly.  This is especially true for cold and very cold climates.  That's why Canada now requires a gap or equivalent in their National Building Code....perhaps Minnesota too (don't know for sure).

Is your Hardie board grooved on the backside?  This **may be sufficient** to provide drying.  Based on the type housewrap, it can and will trap water vapor behind behind the wrap.  Most are not rated to be waterproof, only water resistant. 

You did not say what the distance was between joints.  If it is every four feet, this may not be sufficient to support the cement board. 

See the link from Building Science Corporation.  The article is entitled Mind the gap eh, publication # BSI-038.  It discusses this in detail. I've mentioned this since the link may not show properly.  Easy site to google or search on.  "Mind the gap" article http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-038-mind-the-gap-eh