300 ft. driveway
Last Post 17 Mar 2009 11:45 AM by thagreen. 8 Replies.
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thagreenUser is Offline
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16 Mar 2009 03:12 PM
It might be a shot in the dark but I'll try it anyways.
I'm looking for ball-park figures for laying down a residential driveway. Will be sand bottom and 3/4 crushed stone. Also what would be reccomended thickness for stone? Estimated cost per linear foot sand ,stone ,trucking ,excavation would be great if possible or am I taking the wrong approach? Build will be near Ottawa, On. Thanks!
Cheers!
wesUser is Offline
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16 Mar 2009 03:58 PM
The price for something like that will vary greatly by location. Your best bet would to contact local contractors.
Wes Shelby<br>Design Systems Group<br>Murray KY<br>[email protected]
JellyUser is Offline
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16 Mar 2009 07:19 PM
I don't know about Ottawa, but here sand and crushed stone are sold by the cubic yard, like concrete. Whoever hauls gravel should be able to give you the cubic yard price.

After that it's mainly mathematics to figure out how much you need. Check out one of those online concrete calculators and plug in the numbers. I know sand and crushed stone will fill out a cubic yard differently than mixed concrete, but it would give you a ballpark idea.
SummersUser is Offline
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16 Mar 2009 09:42 PM
Posted By wes on 03/16/2009 3:58 PM
The price for something like that will vary greatly by location. Your best bet would to contact local contractors.
I'd say this qualifies as a Good Answer !  On todays market just go to the nearest bar and find a concrete sub that needs to feed his family !
You supply the materials and he'll work his butt off, just to get some cash ! What a sad state of affairs !
Get a calculator out and see how bad you can beat the man up ! This may even work in the United States of Whatever ?

The Cost Effective Answer to Concrete Corrosion
Eric AndersonUser is Offline
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17 Mar 2009 08:49 AM
OK first things first.  
Questions you need to ponder. 
1.  What is the max grade of the driveway?
2. Is this a wet area  and or what are the underlying soils.

If the driveway has a pitch greater then 5% then you need to account for runoff and how to manage water sheding.  I would use what is called process 2" minus for this.  This is gravel/rock that has been through a crusher and has pieces no bigger then 2".  It allso has hard edges and locks together better then round  stones.  If you spread this and then roll it with a asphalt roller it gets hard and stays flat longer.

I would use 12"  depth for long term durability
You can use regular gravel for the first 8" and use 4" of the 2"- process on top.

If you are in an area with lots of rain and or kind of mucky,  use fabric under the gravel.  It is a trampoline like material that is ~ 12 ft wide and comes in 300 ft rolls.  It keeps the gravel from sinking and mixing with the muddy stuff underneath.  Well worth the cost.

Good luck
Eric Anderson
Think Energy CT, LLC Comprehensive Home Performance Energy Auditing
JellyUser is Offline
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17 Mar 2009 09:13 AM
Eric Anderson, the fabric you mentioned, is it that same geotextile fabric that you would use to wrap the seams of concrete culvert pipe before covering them with earth?
Road BlockUser is Offline
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17 Mar 2009 09:47 AM
Just recieved two quotes for a 10*770 ft driveway. Six inches #21 gravel, with 200 feet of ditch and matting and three 24 incn culverts. $18-21 liner foot.
Eric AndersonUser is Offline
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17 Mar 2009 10:37 AM
There are a batch of different products that are used.  What seems to be a good choice is a woven mesh that looks like trampoline fabric that comes in 10 or 12 ft wide rolls.  Water passes through it but it keeps the gravel and under layers from mixing.  the stuff is strong enough that the trucks can drive on it directly with no covering  without a problem.   It seems like most good excavators will put down fabric, cover it with ~6"  thickness of gravel and compact that, then after the last heavy truck onto the site, which is usualy the drywall delivery, will add the top layer and roll it flat. 

I don't know what the material used  to wrap  culvert pipes is, but driveway fabric is quite different from what is used for wraping footing drains and curtin drains.

Gravel driveways are good, muddy ones are bad.  Ge in the habit of not driving in the center of the driveway only.  Drive on the sides one time, the middle the next.  The drive will last alot longer  if you dont only compact the one lane down the middle. 
Cheers,
Eric
Think Energy CT, LLC Comprehensive Home Performance Energy Auditing
thagreenUser is Offline
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17 Mar 2009 11:45 AM
Eric,RoadBlock,
Thanks for the info. Pretty much what I was looking for. This is only ball-park as I said. I know I'll have to get in touch w/excavators but this is for my personal info to make sure the project is still on budget. Lets me know if I can go further in the lot or closer to the road. Also I don't want the excavators to lose patience or give'm a reason to think they can take advantage. I have used this underlayment you speek of and I belive Bonhomme has 12ft rools.Thanks!
Cheers!
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