Thank you for reading this and contributing.

We begin a Logix 6.25" core foundation next week, atop footings already poured.  Our first venture with ICFs.

Thinking ahead about the electric, plumbing drains, and supply and return PEX to radiators, some of which has to be run in the foam (2.75" thickness inside of concrete core), I've some questions.

For plowing raceways, we were thinking of doing the chainsaw-with-depthstop way, but it is supposedly messy, and we thought a hot knife kit might be better.  This likely not our last ICF job, would the hot knife kit be a good purchase?

If so, please describe the best technique for hot-knifing a channelway for 2-3/8" dia. PVC, and smaller channelways.

That 2-3/8" PVC is a drain line coming down from a kitchen sink above.  It's plow-out takes out all or most of the EPS foam on the inside skin, and at this location, the ICF wall is mostly above finished grade, thus exposed to our deep cold winter weather.  Will we see ghosting on the drywall finish inside, because of the EPS chopout?

As for wiring, which wiring types or products are recommended?  Armored cable?  Romex?

Finally, what does one do to ensure against line damage from future wall fasteners (screws, nails) used to hang pictures, etc.?

I am in the process right now of doing my house.  I am using a skil saw with two to three blades stacked together like a dado blade.  This method will remove the thickness required to insert romex into the foam.  Just set the depth at what you want to cut at and you are good to go.  If you want to cut a chase where you need to install pipe in the foam, just make two cuts and use a hammer claw to remove the foam pieces.  It worked pretty easy for me that way.  I do not know if a hot knife will melt through the plastic ties in the block quickly or if it will take longer to use one.  Pex tubing can be installed the same way.  You might have to remove the saftey guard that covers the bottom of the blade depending on the number of blades you stack up.  Hope this helps.

Later

The Chainsaw method for the electrical romex works great, yes it creates a mess, but I would not saw the mess is much worse than when an electrician drills through all the studs and plates on wood frame to rough in. For you plumbing and electrical boxes I have witnessed some very sloppy workmanship involving chainsaw, sawsalls, claw hammers, etc. your choice of a hot knife is a good one for a clean professional looking job (which disappears after drywall is installed) get a hot knife with a flat pad and several wire attachments, the wire is flexible, simply wrap it around whatever product you are installing to make a template and hot knife away, this works great on electrical boxes, your kitchen drain, pex pipe etc. As for ghosting I have never seen or heard of a complaint about this. And for future wall fasteners you should be setting both you wire and pex lines as deep as possible into the cavity of the foam, the drain line is no different than if the wall was regular frame and it's exposure to nails. Save your money and use romex wire, armoured is not required in ICF. And one thing I recommend is it is not necessary to spray foam everything back in after rough in installation but it certainly doesn't hurt to spot foam to help hold these wires/pipes in place prior to drywall install.

Chris

don't forget now that code requires one exposed rebar that is in the concrete (I believe it has to be tied into the footing rebar) for a ground wire, you'ld have to check code.. it wasn't required when we built. good idea now that houses have nothing but plastic for water lines..

if you're going to be hanging drapes, I'd look for some of those cheese grate type plates to place around the windows too, I guess they'll even support a stair rail or close to it.

I believe the cheese grate plates he's referring to are sold under the name Grappler.

Dave

Gene,
The Hot Knife is the way to go..... it least for cutting out your boxes. As for running the romex, I have chosen to run smurf tube, a blue Carlon product inside my Reward blocks. Although it may take more time initially (tying the conduit to the plastic frame and attaching connectors, I'm convinced it's the smart way to go. No way are you going to
nail a wire 3+ inches into the block.

sucecreek