Steve Andrews
Registered Users
Basic Member
Posts:334
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| 06/09/2000 11:37 PM |
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Keith, here are some starting thoughts in response to your questions.
1. FLoor joists. First, using a large mud sill, glue and screw or nail down a shoe plate large enough to accomodate the panel you will be slipping down over it later. Second, place a rim board in far enough from the edge of the shoe plate (typically 7/16 to 1/2 inch) to accomodate the inner facing of the panel you will be installing later. Third, nail through the rim board into each floor joist as you place them, per normal application. Fourth, after applying adhesives to the shoe plate, place your panels down on top of the shoe plate and attach the outer facing to the shoe plate. Fifth, using long panel fasteners from the exterior, fasten through the panels and into the rim board. Finally, from the interior, use long nails to fasten through the rim board, through the panel facing, and into the shoe plate.
2. Cold roof. Were you planning to use a product like Koolply in a hot climate (It comes with a radiant barrier attached to one side.) If so, the answer to your energy payback question would depend on severity of climate and utility rates. Chances are very good that in most climates, energy payback won't be enough to even justify doing the math. In very hot climates with expensive energy costs, you might save a fair amount, since the percent of radiant energy transfer down through the roof assembly tends to be fairly high. But normal windows generate the highest proportion of cooling loads, so that's the next place to put your money for energy savings. However, the vented roof would probably slightly improve comfort in any climate with even a modest cooling load, so that could help you justify the installation of a cold roof.
As to the necessity of using a cold roof with metal shingles, I don't have an answer for you. I'm aware of some small-piece metal tile systems that could work without a cold roof. At my windy building site (100 mph twice in six months), my roofer preferred to attach my sheet metal roof to either firring strips or a cold roof concept.
3. Detering carpenter ants and termites. The general guideline is to use the same techniques for repelling these insects as you would use in any stick-framed home. If you use a petroleum-based compound, be sure to keep it away from the foam as it will etch the foam.
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