frodo
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Posts:2
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| 07/22/2001 5:32 PM |
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I live in Southeast Texas where the air feels like a Turkish bath and the mosquitos are big enough to carry off children and small animals. We live in a stick built home now but my wife and I wish to build a concrete home in a few years. Mold is a serious problem in this part of the country and many homes have had to be torn down or refinished due to the build up of mold within the wall cavities and the interiors. The local media has attributed this phenomenon to building "tighter homes" and using synthetic stucco products like "EIFS." Does anyone out there have any recommendations for building with ICFs in a hot, humid climate? In particular, does a humid environment make building with ICFs more challenging or require special procedures? Any help received is greatly appreciated.
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Matt Shackelford
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Posts:14
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| 07/22/2001 10:43 PM |
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| The good thing about building with ICFs is there is no hollow cavity in the wall for mold to grow. But mold could be a problem on the interior walls if moisture is not handled properly. The most common method for an ICF home is the use of an air to air exchanger or heat recovery ventilator. The ventilation systems will exhaust moisture ladened air from the interior and replace with fresh air. In severe humid climate humidity can be farther controlled with a dehumidifier. Any of these systems can be intigrated into the HVAC system. |
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seflpolyst
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Posts:147
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| 07/23/2001 8:54 AM |
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| frodo...here in south florida we also know about humidity and bugs...the typical stick or cbs home uses about 1 ton of a/c per 500sf of floor space whereas the rule of thumb for icf's is about 1000sf per ton. due to the efficiency of an icf wall, which has less than half the air exchanges per hour through the wall compared to stick or cbs, moisture does not "leak in" and the house feels cool and dry with half the energy needed to keep it that way. to get an estimate for your a/c and de-humidification needs you may want to contact richard rue of energy wise[/b]who advertises on this site. |
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frodo
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Posts:2
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| 07/26/2001 11:25 PM |
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Thanks for the replies to my question. It is logical that the HVAC system will play a major role in controlling interior humidity. This should be true, however, in conventional woodframe homes as well. I am not a builder nor an engineer, but it seems to me that you have the potential for condensation, interior or exterior, where a temperature gradient exists. My concern would be if this occurred behind wall board or around windows and doors. Perhaps this problem just isn't seen in ICF homes or is easily overcome by a good air exchange system. Thanks again for your responses.
Frodo
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markross
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Posts:1035
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| 07/27/2001 10:12 AM |
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Frodo:
There are some serious ways of addressing the issues, you speak of here, beyond the scope of the last posts.
1. Use a vinyl bucking system and vinyl windows. The vinyl should not deteriorate. If sun fading is an issue, then use an aluminium clad vinyl window.
2. One thing I have noticed with concrete is that it will set very quickly in a warmer climate. For a novice, I recommend a retarder in the mix as it will allow you more time to fine tune the walls after pour to ensure straight level and true, and maintain the alignment as you pour.
3. There are concrete roof systems out there. If the wood truss systems will rot, and batt insulation will collect humidity, try to target a concrete and eps roofing system, there are many available.
4. A slab on grade will probably be in order here, combined with all of the above, it should make your home almost impervious to the bugs and such that you are concerned about.
5. Stucco the interior as well as the exterior, as mold will grow on and in drywall.
6. Use EPS sheets for interior walls, which will be covered with stucco, this will ensure that the walls are bug and mold free, and you can still easily put in plumbing or hvac chases, although it takes a bit mor work, and thicker walls.
I hope these few items help a bit.
Mark Ross
"Le Canuck" |
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Ian ICF Builders
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Advanced Member
Posts:612
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| 07/28/2001 7:11 PM |
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Mark: Please share with us a few of the suppliers and installed costs for the stucco products for interior use. I would guess that you are aware that they meet the 15 minute thermal barrier requirement that many of the inspectors ask for. Thanks in advance.
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markross
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Posts:1035
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| 07/28/2001 8:45 PM |
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Actually Ian, it is a 25 minute fire barrier, tested and passed in conformance with Can s-114, utilizing the ULC Fire Cube test in full conformance with ASTM standards. The product is from Durock, although not thier normal finish coat, it is called the Tri-col finish, available in both troweled and roll on. As for costs, this may be a case of balancing the installation costs with the owners concerns, I refuse to believe that my way is the only way, so I tend to listen to the owners concerns and respond accordingly, there is always a product or method to fulfill a concern of thiers.
Mark Ross
"Le Canuck"
Edited by - markross on 07/28/2001 21:03:59 |
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