aksmith42
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| 06/07/2008 4:14 PM |
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| i'm doing my own icf basement and am using form a drain for the footers. i'll also need to install a footer under a load bearing wall in the basement and i was wondering what would be the best way to tie them into the perimeter footers. maybe i should just use form a drain for them as well? any suggestions would be appreciated. thanks |
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wes
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| 06/08/2008 12:07 PM |
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| It would be a good idea to use the form-a-drain on the interior footer. You need some type of drainage system around any footer, and since you are using the form-a-drain, it makes good sense to use it on this one also. |
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Wes Shelby
Design Systems Group
Murray KY
wandr@ainweb.net |
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James Eggert
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| 06/09/2008 5:53 PM |
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| The other choice is a thickened haunch when you pour the floor slab, if you plan on pouring it before framing. |
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Take Care
Jim
Design/Build/Consulting
"Not So Big" Design Proponent |
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aksmith42
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| 06/09/2008 8:02 PM |
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hey guys thanks for the help
jim i think i know what you are talking about, but could you detail that method a little more?
thanks
adam |
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aksmith42
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| 06/09/2008 8:22 PM |
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| also what the proper way to tie a garage footer and wall to the basement. because of the overdig there will be nothing supporting the first 3' of the poured concrete garage wall. i've seen a piece of treated lumber used to accomplish this but just wondered what the best method would be |
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James Eggert
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| 06/14/2008 8:43 AM |
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I suggest you review the use of stepped footings; no one supports a 3' piece of footing and/or wall across an overdig using a piece of wood???
Also check out the terms concrete haunch, thickened slab, grade beam to see details of what I mentioned above! |
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Take Care
Jim
Design/Build/Consulting
"Not So Big" Design Proponent |
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TLC-ICF
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| 06/14/2008 9:47 PM |
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| You can pour a lintel or buy a precast one to span the over dig. As for the center footer the thickened slab is good enough. |
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aksmith42
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| 06/15/2008 8:17 PM |
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thanks for the replies guys. just a few more questions though. i'll be using 8" form a drain which will be formed ontop of the ground and then of course fill the inside with coarse rock. now for a thickened slab would i simply just leave out the rock where my load bearing wall will be? then add rebar and pour the slab? also how wide would you make the thickened portion.
TLC, do you know of any internet sites where i could check into those precast lintels?
thanks
adam |
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gregj
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| 06/19/2008 4:29 PM |
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Posted By James Eggert on 06/14/2008 8:43 AM
no one supports a 3' piece of footing and/or wall across an overdig using a piece of wood???
Sadly, I see it done here all the time. I even saw one that had to be a good 5 feet. I agree that stepped footing is the way to go. |
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cmkavala
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| 06/20/2008 5:30 PM |
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aksmith42;
precast website http://www.castcrete.com/
there really should not be a reason to run an interior footer drain unless you building over a ground spring.
If you must run a drain use the haunched footer and sleeve it with a 6" piece of PVC with a 4" drain running thru
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Chris Kavala
chris@southernsips.com
1-877-321-SIPS |
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icfcontractor
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| 06/21/2008 1:39 PM |
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Aksmith42,
Form-a-Drain is a great product and it sounds like you are installing it to the factory recommendations (which I feel were done by an engineer not a builder). I agree with James that a thickened area of the slab is the easiest way to go. It allows you to run a continueous vapor barrier under your slab. The size of the thickened area is a question best answered by your engineer but historically we will pour our thickened areas with the bottom width the same size as the original footing with the compacted subgade at a 1 to 1 repose to the under slab grade height.
As far as your connection the the garage. What you are describing is called a "flying footing", "grade beam", or a whole host of other terms. It can be done in this manner but it should be engineered because you will be essentally spanning the distance from the basement wall to the garage footing(A big underground lintel). This may take a large footing pad in the areas you choose to do it this way. A stepped footing is another option again your engineer should have provided you with a detail of how they would like the step footing installed. Another option is to fill those areas where the footing will lie with a compacted structual fill that is compacted to 95% or better, fill with CDF (Controlled Density Fill), or concrete.
As you can see there are many options. As I like to say,"There are several ways to do things right and an infinite number ways to do it wrong." Good Luck
ICF Contractor
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aksmith42
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Posts:29
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| 07/28/2008 4:26 PM |
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| hey guys thanks for the info, i found a place that makes precast lintels. if i went that route would i just have it in place before i pour my basement? im using icfs for the basement. i'm going to have an engineer look over everything and let me know for sure that the lintel route will work fine. thanks adam |
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Mark Fleming
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| 08/01/2008 11:15 AM |
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I'd agree that using Form-a-Drain on an interior footing for a bearing wall is probably overkill. You would be running a drainage pipe from the interior footing to the perimeter Form-a-Drain. Chances are you'd only get water in the interior if the perimeter failed, so spend more time getting the perimeter correct.
1) use drywall screws at every splice/corner
2) use more grade stakes than you would with wood
3) screw drywall screws part way into the interior surface of the F-a-D so that the screws are cast into the footing and hold the Form-a-Drain into position until backfilled. Without these, the F-a-D can pop loose of the footing during form removal or subsequent construction.
4) use a filter fabric to keep fines out of your drain gravel and F-a-D.
5) have a cleanout or two that you can thread a garden hose down to flush the system. I don't think F-a-D makes one. I had to come up with my own.
6) nobody has ever mentioned "Roto-Rooting" this type of footing drain, probably because it would be impossible. Keep that in mind when landscaping.
Mark |
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